ProDave

I miss read the OP that said: "I would like to increase my privacy and build a fence 1meter 60/70cm tall so their car won't look straight in my window." I read that as a fence 1 metre or 60/70 cm high. NOT 1.6 or 1.7 M tall. Sometimes I read words too literally.

I keep going on about housing perhaps because I speak from a position of smugness that I live in a low energy house heated by a heat pump and with solar PV to self generate a lot of our own energy. Compared to out last house, heated by oil, I have saved more CO2 emissions building this house than I would if I stopped driving completely. But even new houses I still don't see the many, let alone all being built to the same standard mine was. So the problem is most definitely not being taken seriously. And that is even before anyone dares suggest how we are going to tackle the old poor quality UK housing stock and who is going to pay. That data set in the OP gave a total figure somewhere of 16% for housing which is where I made my comparison then went on to break it down into subsets which is where someone picked up a lower figure. I think my point when moaning about the future of transport, is moving to a low energy house made no change to my lifestyle, or any change it did make was positive. Any such changes to future transport are largely negative in terms of cost and convenience to the end user.

Generally up to 1 metre tall or less a fence does not need planning permission even if right next to the road. Does your house / estate have any covenants that might stop you putting up any fence in this location?

Ah one of those "what a shame something more important has come along" jobs. My BIL lives in a 300 year old Welsh farmhouse with bats and squirrels in the loft. On the few occasions he ventures up there he does so in a disposable boiler suit and mask.

The fact the gable end is insulated suggests this is a room in roof, so why has the roof not been designed and built as a warm roof not requiring ventilation? SO much easier to detail properly. Is it too late to change to warm roof?

If the handle breaks like that, you can get a spanner on the flat of the shaft and shift it. I have several spare handles from the days when washing machines had hot feeds, and each WM tap came with 2 handles.

Too much data not presented clearly. The things I took from it though is transport is NOT the biggest contributor, but the way it is being taxed and penalised you would think it was. Instead it is just the easiest to tax and blame and try and shame people into travelling less. It is actually housing that is the worst, why are houses not being taxed like cars depending on their energy usage? And "poor" houses banned from cities? (Rhetorical question not expecting an answer)

Seen it regularly. In MOST houses, take a light switch off the wall on a windy day and you get greeted with a blast of icy cold air coming out. Unless the house is build properly air tight, then all the voids are usually linked by cable and pipe holes all leading to the cold loft.

It is the designer that should specify it, not the glulam manufacturer, they just make what is specified on the drawing. Likewise the installers (should) do what the drawings instruct them to do.

Surely a proper drawing exists somewhere detailing the fixings to be used? None of those look adequate or anything like as substantial as the brackets used on ours, and specified on all the drawings. The fixings of the rafters to the Glulam look inadequate to me as well as the brackets fixing the glulam to the gable.

I would certainly rebuild it and re point it, just so it looks right. I love the way the old shelves got boarded over, still with stuff on them.

We had that in our last house. Sitting during the first gale watching the glass flex debating will it pop or not. 22 years later it is still there no damage and no doubt flexing today in the strong wind.

Not that simple, depending what valves you have it may need a "hot water off" signal. No doubt it could be re jigged but just buy the one mentioned above is the simplest answer.

I think the concern with a non insulated cavity is you might be heading for the plasterboard tent principle with a cold cavity, likely vented to the loft negating much of the benefit of EWI. Surely if you are adding EWI to an unfilled cavity you should at a very minimum ensure the entire top of the cavity is closed off so cold air from the loft cannot enter, and any warmth created in the cavity from the house cannot escape.

I am assuming those 2 pipes, one is hot water, one is cold water? So you probably won't use the hot water and you will first need a bit of pipe out of the cold isolating valve to a tee then to two washing machine valves. And some brackets to clamp the pipes to the wall.

That is indeed the simplest thing to try, just one tip when looking for a replacement programmer, avoid any that make mention of a "Service Interval" timer, often with SI in the part number. Sometimes depending how it is wired, it can be very difficult getting a test probe onto what you want to measure to determine which bit is working or not.

I don't think a remote diagnosis can go much further. do you have any electrical test gear like a multimeter? Are you confident taking live readings? If not you probably need an electrician. But if you don't want to do that, one thing to try is a new programmer, but that is not guaranteed to work. they are easy to swap and in 95% of cases the new one will just fit onto the old back plate without alterations.

When it has stopped working and you try turning heating and hot water on and off with the slide switches, do you hear the relays in the programmer go click?

What stops working? CH, DHW or both? Are the Hot Water and Heating lights on the programmer still on when it stops? Can you get it working again by turning the heating or hot water off and back on again?

Nobody can diagnose that remotely. What trips? MCB? RCD? RCBO? or post a picture of what trips if you don't know. Next time it trips, switch the two slide switched to OFF before resetting it. then try with just heating on for a few hours, then try just DHW for a few hours and see if you can narrow it down a bit. The clunk from the controller is a relay energising and quite normal.

Do NOT build it into an accessible space. It has to be accessible somehow e.g in a kitchen, on top of a wall unit etc. Or even build it in behind the light switch and run dc to the light strip?

I have always understood tiles and appropriate flashings collect all the water and send it to gutters etc. The membrane is only there underneath to catch a leak if it occurs and catch any condensation that may form under the tile and trip off. But it is good to test how watertight the membrane is before the tiles go on so you know it is a good backup.

Yes the fault is with the oven. Persevere searching for the meaning of those fault codes. Is it still under any form of guarantee?

That's an rcbo so there is no way to find out if it is tripping due to over current or earth leakage. It's 16A it would have to be a very big oven for that not to be enough,

I would not. I would take the door frame out. Build shuttering either side and pour the concrete IN PLACE. When dry, put door frame back.