ProDave

Seen it regularly. In MOST houses, take a light switch off the wall on a windy day and you get greeted with a blast of icy cold air coming out. Unless the house is build properly air tight, then all the voids are usually linked by cable and pipe holes all leading to the cold loft.

It is the designer that should specify it, not the glulam manufacturer, they just make what is specified on the drawing. Likewise the installers (should) do what the drawings instruct them to do.

Surely a proper drawing exists somewhere detailing the fixings to be used? None of those look adequate or anything like as substantial as the brackets used on ours, and specified on all the drawings. The fixings of the rafters to the Glulam look inadequate to me as well as the brackets fixing the glulam to the gable.

I would certainly rebuild it and re point it, just so it looks right. I love the way the old shelves got boarded over, still with stuff on them.

We had that in our last house. Sitting during the first gale watching the glass flex debating will it pop or not. 22 years later it is still there no damage and no doubt flexing today in the strong wind.

Not that simple, depending what valves you have it may need a "hot water off" signal. No doubt it could be re jigged but just buy the one mentioned above is the simplest answer.

I think the concern with a non insulated cavity is you might be heading for the plasterboard tent principle with a cold cavity, likely vented to the loft negating much of the benefit of EWI. Surely if you are adding EWI to an unfilled cavity you should at a very minimum ensure the entire top of the cavity is closed off so cold air from the loft cannot enter, and any warmth created in the cavity from the house cannot escape.

I am assuming those 2 pipes, one is hot water, one is cold water? So you probably won't use the hot water and you will first need a bit of pipe out of the cold isolating valve to a tee then to two washing machine valves. And some brackets to clamp the pipes to the wall.

That is indeed the simplest thing to try, just one tip when looking for a replacement programmer, avoid any that make mention of a "Service Interval" timer, often with SI in the part number. Sometimes depending how it is wired, it can be very difficult getting a test probe onto what you want to measure to determine which bit is working or not.

I don't think a remote diagnosis can go much further. do you have any electrical test gear like a multimeter? Are you confident taking live readings? If not you probably need an electrician. But if you don't want to do that, one thing to try is a new programmer, but that is not guaranteed to work. they are easy to swap and in 95% of cases the new one will just fit onto the old back plate without alterations.

When it has stopped working and you try turning heating and hot water on and off with the slide switches, do you hear the relays in the programmer go click?

What stops working? CH, DHW or both? Are the Hot Water and Heating lights on the programmer still on when it stops? Can you get it working again by turning the heating or hot water off and back on again?

Nobody can diagnose that remotely. What trips? MCB? RCD? RCBO? or post a picture of what trips if you don't know. Next time it trips, switch the two slide switched to OFF before resetting it. then try with just heating on for a few hours, then try just DHW for a few hours and see if you can narrow it down a bit. The clunk from the controller is a relay energising and quite normal.

Do NOT build it into an accessible space. It has to be accessible somehow e.g in a kitchen, on top of a wall unit etc. Or even build it in behind the light switch and run dc to the light strip?

I have always understood tiles and appropriate flashings collect all the water and send it to gutters etc. The membrane is only there underneath to catch a leak if it occurs and catch any condensation that may form under the tile and trip off. But it is good to test how watertight the membrane is before the tiles go on so you know it is a good backup.

Yes the fault is with the oven. Persevere searching for the meaning of those fault codes. Is it still under any form of guarantee?

That's an rcbo so there is no way to find out if it is tripping due to over current or earth leakage. It's 16A it would have to be a very big oven for that not to be enough,

I would not. I would take the door frame out. Build shuttering either side and pour the concrete IN PLACE. When dry, put door frame back.

Have you looked up what those error codes mean? Is it an MCB or RCD that trips? and does it only trip when the oven actually turns on? Have you tried other oven modes, e.g fan oven, conventional oven, grill?

Or if you create shuttering and pour concrete, is is not really a "beam" as it will be fully supported on what is there already and will just fill the gap you want exactly.

I can see a vaulted ceiling could cost more if for instance you decided to have the vaulted ceiling downstairs instead of putting a room upstairs, it would make the whole house bigger, so real cost. but in our case the roof design was to get an unincumbered room in roof space. So vaulted ceiling or not vaulted ceiling was literally where do I put the plasterboard, insignificant and almost impossible to quantify between low and high ceiling.

do you have lots of fixed resistors available? If so I would connect different values one at a time, say 1K, 10K 100K to start with. And note the readings you get on the heat pump for each. From that you can plot the graph of resistance vs temperature and thus determine the slope of the thermistor required and then buy one.

An MCB only has the "switch" not the little test button as well. A consumer unit with just those, should have one or 2 big RCD's at the end of the row with the test button on.

Mine, from BPC, I forget the make. Fixed from below ducts just push in, cut to length after plasterboard fitted and the outlet just pushes on.

See second part of my reply, if it is really open circuit, how come you get a temperature reading with it connected but an error code when you disconnect it? Anyway a thermistor is marked using coloured stripes using the resistor colour code that looks to be therefore green black black gold. So 500 plus the gold, not sure what the gold means in the context of a thermistor?