ProDave

Are the flow and return copper pipes hot? Is the motorised valve opening?

Corrected that for you

Is it on timbers because the waste pipe is above the concrete floor?

I can't comment if the quote is fair. BUT I see no mention of insulation. So I would stop and think what you want. Dormers, particularly old ones are poorly built and poorly insulated. If you are going to the trouble of replacing rotten cladding, I would first stop and think is that all you want to do, or would you rather use the opportunity to upgrade it more and make it a much better insulated space, quite possibly for little extra cost compared to just re cladding it?

Cosy just looks like a new name for the old Economy 10 rate. Tomato looks like pot lick depending on supply and demand, so a gamble.

Same here thick snow on ours. I thought I would sweep it off this morning but it has had too many freeze thaw cycles and is now solid ice. It will be gone on Sunday when Bert gets here.

My own personal view is this is something I would do in my own home, but NOT something I would be doing in someone else's home particularly one that is open to the public as a pub. If the smelly stuff hits the air moving device I would not want to be explaining to a judge why I was doing stove flue work without any qualifications.

It's quite clear, the hearth in all cases should extend at least 225mm in front of the stove for a closed appliance (which I assume this is) How deep it is overall depends on the dimensions of the stove and how close it can go to surrounding walls.

Reading that summary, I can only shake my head and wonder what is the great attraction of wireless controls and throwing an "app" into the mixture? Most ordinary systems with hard wired thermostats and hard wired programmers "Just Work"

So you know both sides collect condensate, and both have a hole in the bottom. So find another fitting then tee both condensate outlets to your drain. Think of it as a product upgrade.

Personally I won't do anything. When selling our old house, that was still listed on the paper registry not on line so as soon as I informed our solicitor that we were going to sell it, he put in place the transfer to the electronic registry so it was all ready and would not cause delays. Should we ever decide to sell this one, we will do the same, make any changes at the time we are selling.

Well it should not be there. Empty it out then see if there is a drain channel between the 2 sides that is blocked.

That is a recent (post Brexit) install so are we to assume a new house or is it a retrofit to an old house? Are bedrooms carpeted? If so lift a carpet if you can ans I bet it is cosy warm underneath and the heat is just not getting through the carpet fast enough, hence the floor is heated up to flow temperature giving the low Dt but the heat is not getting into the rooms quick enough. If so higher flow temperature, or thinner carpets is the answer. As a sanity check, turn the upstairs heating off. Let it all cool down, say over night, then when you first turn it on, I bet you will see a Dt between flow and return while it heats up the spreader plates and the floor. Our previous house had UFH and carpets upstairs and we ran that at 40 degrees flow on the upstairs UFH and lower on the downstairs with solid floors.

Can you see if there is anything coming out of the condensate drain? If there is not, see @Roundtuit post above. Go on, turn it off and lift the lid off. You know you want to.

In cold weather the inlet pipe (inlet from outside to mvhr) will be carrying cold air, if not well insulated you will get condensation on the outside of that.

Does @Pocster care to post a screen grab of how his shows. @Kelvin Ours shows just by searching for the postcode. It is listed as "land only" the Scottish Register says "Registers of Scotland records six property types: residential, commercial, land, agriculture, forestry and other. The property type information is provided by the agent on the application for registration." I see no pressing need to change it from land to residential.

This is how ours shows on the LR maps We registered it as a bit of empty land. The building outlines and house name just appeared on the map as if by magic.

The land registry maps are OS derived. I think the OS do a good job of mapping new buildings that appear on land. I never told them anything but like you the LR OS map now shows a pretty good outline of the buildings on the site, including our static caravan. I did once see a man with a packpack with an aerial on it, walking around the perimeter of a new build house clearly recording the position of each corner of the building. Someone must have done that here, but nobody asked my permission to do so.

Your build requirements were much the same as mine, and I would say that is pretty normal for self builders. But most self builders are quite different to mass market house buyers. I self built (twice) because mass market builders at the price I could afford only offer row after row of identikit boxes crammed in tight together with small gardens and little regard to views or which way faces south.

Also tricky to control, the forks don't just remain level like on a telehandler.

Whoever owns the land owns the buildings on it, unless they are leased to someone by leasehold

Land registry etc would have been dealt with when you bought it, whatever it was then, even an empty piece of ground (as ours was). Not something you usually have to worry about at completion. Do you find it listed here? https://www.findmyaddress.co.uk/search

If the outside tap is fitted correctly, the pipe feeding it will go DOWN hill to connect to it. Just open the tap and the little drain screw at the bottom of most outside taps, and it will be fine. We have always done the same and never came to any harm in -10

We demounted the camper from the truck this morning. This is why we chose this type of camper, when not off camping, it becomes a perfectly normal truck for other uses. It has been lowered on it's legs just now, but the car port still needs to have enough clearance for it to go under it when on the truck.

I once thought that wouldn't it be good if every device could be controlled from one central point. So for example: When the sun is shining and not otherwise being used, turn the freezer to a lower temperature, and then overnight when no sun turn it back to a less cold (but still freezing) temperature Make some devices that are not time critical "pause" when something more important is using the power, like the heating element on a washing machine, if there is not enough power immediately, it will just take a bit longer to do the wash as it waits for something else to stop. All this of course would be great in a boffins house, but imagine the complexity trying to market some kind of consumer product oriented communication system and build that into appliances. It would be so complicated and unreliable. Battery storage should largely solve all this, if working properly it charges to soak up any PV generation not being used, and discharges as much as it can to feed loads when not enough generation. That really really needs to be widely available with a reliable wireless connected current probe with a decent range. I don't know if that is the case? As regards reliability. I have repaired a couple, and was generally disappointed with the build quality and lack of basic understanding. The things that stood out were PCB tracks burning out because they could not handle the current. Jump leads to power devices doing the same. And power devices failing due to over heating either by not having a decent heat sink or even worse just no heat sink compound used. Some shockingly bad and so simple to avoid design mistakes.