ProDave

That is the plan, with battery storage as well.

I would have made it my business to be there and move the builders stuff out of the way myself if they were not there to move it myself.

I meant when you remove the actuator head, and energise it by electricity, i.e. demand heat, does it operate fully and turn the boiler on? 20 degree movement seems too little for a 2 port valve, I would expect a lot more so suspect a mechanical issue in the valve.

If that is the actual valve being discussed, it looks like a clone of a Honeywell.

I could extend them (externally) one to the front and one to the back so they were not actually under the canopy. The front one visible is the exhaust, the rear one, hidden in this picture is symetrical so the same distance is the inlet. There will be a small gap anyway, to avoid trying to form any sort if flashing from the wall to the roof.

DC is nasty as it is hard to let go. But these things are designed to only output a low current, so if you did touch it the voltage would drop a lot lower. It's volts that jolts, it's mills (milliamps) that kills.

A part of my build that is still awaiting to be built. And a good job as the parameters have changed as I hinted in another thread a few days ago. It now needs to be built a bit higher than originally planned to accommodate the latest addition to the fleet. It's almost 3.2 metres to the highest point so we need comfortable clearance under for that. The size remains the same, 6 metres by 6 metres. The original plan would have been sloping down from the front to the back, but that would make the front insanely high now, so it will now slope from the garage wall down towards the left. It will be roofed with box profile roofing as originally planned. I will sketch a proposed joist plan in due course to bounce ideas around. But one thing that has become obvious, the car port roof where it attaches to the garage is going to be above the MVHR vents. I am not sure if that is going to pose a problem or not?

It outputs up to 500V or 1000V depending what you have selected, but only a low current is available. It will certainly smart if you touch the probes. Try not to.

It's okay to short the probes. The damp piece of wood is a good test to give some confidence that it is working properly.

What make of valve, different makes behave differently? If you remove the actuator head from the actual valve, does the actuator move correctly off the valve? does the valve spindle rotate freely with the actuator head off?

I worked on a straw bale house build near me. But the straw bales were for insulation not structure. It was basically a larsen truss style timber frame with the gap between the inner and outer sections of the larsen truss matching the bale size and the bales were stacked up in there forming the wall insulation. Issues I recall, they were very lucky to get a dry enough spell once the straw was cut for it to dry and then be baled. they had trouble finding anyone with a working small square baler, most farms bale as very big round or square bales now. And then renting a barn to store the bales under cover until they were ready to build them in. Imho all it did was add complication and cost and made the finished walls very thick. Just so the builder had a cosy notion he had a "natural" material. He could have achieved the same building performance at lower cost and with thinner walls using some variation on mineral wool like Frametherm,

I'm going to work now dear, you can manage in the cold and dark until I get back can't you? (car runs out of charge half way to work)........

Camping stove and gas bottle. Totally silent, and the fuel won't go stale (though it may run out)

As soon as you mention air fryer or kettle that's 3kW minimum and then only one at a time. There shouldn't be a minimum load requirement, but they will be less efficient at small loads.

If you are doing a service void of 25mm and 12mm plasterboard, that is a perfect match to a 35mm back box.

You will get a reading in megaohms when set to insulation testing, and you are hoping for a very high reading, even infinity is good. anything less than 1 megaohm wants investigating, but typically a screw through a cable will read 0 If you get a low reading, look first at the other end of the cable in case the cores are touch each other.

Yes. If you look at the detail that is 2 double pole switches bolted together one normally open the other normally closed and that is a 2 pole busbar jumper across the bottom and the left hand terminals are only for connecting that busbar.

Most people consider that the old way of doing it but there is no right or wrong way. The disadvantage of loop at light, as that is called, is some consider it more tiresome terminating at a ceiling, and a lot of modern light fittings have inadequate provision for that many cables within the light fitting. Loop at switch I find easier to terminate as you are working at a nice height. It also provides a neutral at the switch if you want any form of smart switch, and in the case of say a string of downlights it really is the only sensible way to do it.

Yes test both cables individually

A changeover switch Mounted in a suitable enclosure with the generator in connected to a suitable INLET connector rated for the generator output.

You are testing that none of the cores of the cable are shorted to another of the cores of the same cable, which is typically what will happen if there is a screw through a cable. So start with one probe on bare earth wire of the cable and one probe on the brown, if you get good, high insulation repeat with one probe on the earth and one on the blue. To be thorough test again with one probe on the brown and one on the blue. Typically a light cable in the ceiling will go to the light switch box, as most houses now are wired "loop at switch" not directly to the consumer unit.

Please tell me you are not using a widow maker lead?

You will need an insulation resistance tester, if you are not doing it for a living you can get one cheap on ebay for example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256703940830 You need to measure insulation resistance between each of the 3 cores of each and every cable. Yes it can be tedious.

That earned the name "Tony Tray" on this forum a while back. Our builders erecting the frame did that for us with Intello air tight membrane. That paved the way to line the whole inside of the timber frame but using a cheaper membrane BarriAir (not sure how you spell it? Here is a picture

Looks good to me, you have done all the thin cuts well and nothing obviously looks wonky. There are threads on here of "professional" tilers doing a lot lot worse.