ProDave

It's easy and not expensive to fit an air tightness layer before the service void battens go on. With the house design you have chosen does it actually have a loft space? or is it a warm roof with the room ceilings following the roof slope? A warm roof is imho a far better detail is so many respects.

That looks pretty good, my point of enquring was to show you don't need extra insulation on the outside, just suitable render board and render. the one thing I would do yourself is line the inside with an air tightness membrane. I see no mention in Scotrames blurb about any air tightness expectations.

What frame make up are they proposing? What sort of wall and roof U values?

Normally an immersion heater has the thermostat in a pocket within the thermostat housing. I asked the question because that high power immersion heater linked to a few posts up does not appear to have a pocket, or room for a thermostat. I have never seen a HW tank that has the immersion heaters thermostat remote mounted before.

Interresting. Where does the thermostat go?

Can you give more detail of what external insulation and cladding you are considering? When I was looking, I had a discussion with Scotframe, and let slip that i was considering a standard timber kit and adding extra insulation and they ended the conversation, they were not happy with you altering the design.

Is it worth going back for an amendment? We use Marley Edgemere Riven. which are a concrete interlocking tile made to look a bit like slate and a bit thinner than most concrete tiles.

What type of heating is this? Under floor or something else?

Is that be back wall of the house that far out of plumb? Is that outside boiler allowed right on the boundary like that?

Is your planning passed yet? Mine started off down the natural slate avenue, but I persisted pointing out adjacent houses had concrete tiled roofs. They eventually accepted a particular concrete tile with a riven finish and colour to make it look a bit like slate.

No problem at all. I ran mine for over a year before borrowing one of the forum's anemometers and setting it up properly. I just did a "seat of the pants" intitial set up. Leave the vents on the rooms with the longest pipe runs open quite wide, and the rooms with shorter runs, close the vents down a bit. What I found when I set it up (if my memory is correct) was I was over ventilating the kitchen and under ventilating the bathrooms, but it did not seem to make much practical difference.

Procedures do seem to vary a lot from one area to another so best to get local knowledge.

The meter box has to be in place. Then the DNO connects their supply and leaves it as a bare supply. A short time later the supplier comes along and installs a meter. Your electrician then connects a consumer unit and you can connect stuff.

An MPAN can exist without a registered address. Ours is registered to "Land 50m metres east of _______" We were given the MPAN a few days before the actual connection and then we booked the meter with the supplier. We chose SSE as our intitial supplier to install the meter, simpy because that was the DNO. Signed up to the standard variable tariff then switched within a few weeks.

I still think we are at the VHS / Betamax stage with car chargers. I do hope one day there will be be one standard charger?

I ruled out the SunAmp very early on because you simply cannot charge it from an ASHP so in winter when there is not much PV you would be heating most of your hot water with resistance heating rather than taking advantage of the COP of the heat pump. The early ones did appear to have a simpler control system that made it easier to charge with variable solar PV, but the later ones have a more complex control system that causes issues with that. It's a shame because I like the concept, particularly the vacuum panel insulation system for low standing heat loss, which would be probably my only reason for wanting one.

That is a tough decision. In days gone by without hesitation I would say storage heaters. That is a landlords friend, though a system few people actually like. Heat pumps work well, but they have "niggles" Mine has a habit of throwing a random error and needing resetting. They are slow to heat a tank of hot water. I would be uneasy with them in a rental as you would need someone who truly understands them on hand, and might get a lot of "no hot water" complaints? The real basic, simple (but not cheapest for bills) is electric panel heaters. Can't beat them for simplicity and understanding, and I see an increasing number of rentals switching from storage heaters to panel heaters. Would a 10kW shower satisfy the shower needs? if so you only need a small water heater for the basin and kitchen sink. Plenty of tenants manage on 8kW showers so a 10kW would be relative luxury.

The fixings are epoxied to the underside of the worktop in site. the whole underside of the worktop had been prepared with a rough surface for that purpose. The fitting process is more involved than I expected. It starts by a site visit to template the worktops, which means making an exact 1:1 scale worktop in plywood, including any scribing to make it fit all the walls. They then take the sink with them so the hole they cut is exactly right for the sink. This is where you sort out details, e.g in our case we wanted the join between the full and half bowl to exactly line up with the centre of the kitchen window. You will need to cut some of the sink unit away. Anyway I seem to have hijacked Mike's blog so if you want to ask more tag onto my kitchen worktop thread

Talk to your stone supplier. Our sink is hung from the underside of the wotktop with no support from the kitchen units.

Need to sent the SEPA people on the same course the EA go to.

Different names for the same thing. That's what I refer to as our "partial soakaway" The daft thing here, is I have permission to discharge into the burn, but no part of this soakaway is allowed withing 10 metres of the burn. So my partial soakaway has to go back to solid pipe for the last 10 metres. Logic would dictate that could continue all the way up to the burn to allow more chance to soak into the ground, but that was not allowed.

For anyone reading, it is SEPA in Scotland who grand a licence to discharge to a watercourse. They prefer not to and like to see evidence that discharge to land is not possible. And in our case they insisted on a partial soakaway, and needed a measuerment of the flow rate in the burn to ensure there was adequate dilution.

I solved this conundrum by not fitting any door liners until the finished floor was in.

This is the Conder ASP6 going in, very similar to the BipPure, 6 person in this case.

Which country are you in? I hope not Scotland as SEPA won't allow discharge to a dry ditch. As @PeterW says most on here will recommend one of the air blower type treatment plants. These include the Conder (the one I have) Vortex ( @joe90 has that one) Biopure, several have that, Graff, I have seen a couple. Plus several more no doubt. The ones I would not recommend are the ones that have moving mechanical parts down in the smelly stuff. You really don't want to be the person with the job of fixing those when a mechanical part breaks.