ProDave

I am not seeing anything in the documentation yet that shows a "call for heat" input demand to the heat pump. Is this a special or strange version? Others with Mitsubishi ASHP's have found "room thermostat" inputs that do the job of call for heat. It is the ASHP end that is the issue at the moment, not the Heatmiser. Fig 6.1 refers to A, "Indoor Unit" which implies it has control inputs. Do you have the "indoor unit" and the manual for it, if not I think you need to get it. And this "indoor unit" is not the controller that peter linked to, that is C in Fig 6.1

The cables should either lie on the ceiling with the insulation on top, or the cables should be on top of the insulation. The cables should NOT end up in between 2 layers of insulation.

Can you post more of the HP manual, not enough information there. S1,S2 and S3 appear to be power to the indoor unit. It's the indoor unit you need details of I think?

Hi and welcome. Bear in mind French regs will differ from UK regs so we may not know all the answers.

That control panel should be capable of controlling lots of things including lots of setup parameters. Amongst them will almost certainly be maximum water flow temperatures. But they can be fiendishly complicated things which is why I chose not to use the timer functions on mine and treat it as just a way of accessing setup parameters.

Or plastic pipes.

What make and model is the ASHP? There should be a setting for water flow temperature, that is the one you want to slowly increase. Read the manual or post the details and someone might know your particular HP. Why is it only pre heating the DHW? you should be able to heat it to at least 50 degrees usually with an ASHP. That looks like a standard boiler programmer. Is there another unit specific to the ASHP where you can set the parameters?

The "issue" he found is toilets are not precision engineered, and in this case the back is not exactly 90 degrees to the bottom. He needed to get the cabinet panel correct and seal the varying width gap. No doubt he will blame the imperfect toilet.

E10 would be my choice because the 10 hours of cheap rate are spread in 3 bursts including a useful early afternoon period. Getting them to remove a smart meter and replace it with a normal dual rate meter might be an uphill challenge, do let us know how you get on.

The kitchen worktops if "supply and fit" should have been zero rated by the installer. You need to go back to them, point out this was a new build house and it should have been zero rated and for them to refund the VAT you have paid. you will not be able to claim that back any other way. Our worktop fitter did that, they would not commit to zero rating until their surveyor had been to the house to measure up and then he was happy to confirm it was indeed a new build house in the process of being built and zero rated the invoice.

Noise In my experience Wilo are quietest, followed by Grundfoss. Some of the cheaper ones can be downright noisy. My UFH manifolds came with cheap ones and I soon swapped them for Wilo

What have others with the same Qooker tap done to support this valve then?

Yes but it seems to make buyers and lenders a bit more comfortable with the situation.

This comes up in property buying and selling websites a lot. The timescale for building control to take action is quite short, only a few years, so in a great many cases if the work can be proved to have been done outside the time for enforcement action, then the resolution is an indemnity policy, but that can only be purchased if you have not contacted BCO about it. Did you get a statement from he vendor saying when the loft conversion was done? That date is crucial in knowing how to proceed.

Why not just tell the builder that did the extension, that the insulation is not fitted properly and does not conform to building regs so they must come back and do the job properly at their own expense and you will check their work as they progress to ensure it is being done properly.

^^ get a proper computer with a proper keyboard. I can't abide these touch screen things (yes I am an old stick in the mud)

Yes the heat enable from the UFH controller is effectively the logical OR of all the room thermostats for the whole UFH system, so connect the heat enable from the UFH controller as a "room thermostat" in that diagram.

Controls vary a lot between 1 make of ASHP and another, but there should be some kind of "call for heat" input to the ASHP which as @PeterW says should be connected and the ASHP will stop when all the rooms are up to temperature. But even so, just left running, the ASHP would run at a very low duty cycle just circulating the heating loop with little loss from it so I am at a loss to know where 50kWh of electricity is going per day. Look at the manual for the ASHP and find what sort of demand input it has and connect that to the call for heat from the manifold for now. But later when you comission the radiators you will also need a call for heat for those as well.

If the insulation just goes over the joists with nothing in between, then you will have a gap between the ceiling and the insulation. Then at the ends, it is very likely that gap to some extent will be open to the cold loft allowing cold air under the insulation totally negating all it's good work. What many people fail to appreciate is is to be effective, insulation needs to be installed carefully to ensure there are no paths for cold air to bypass the insulation. this is easiest achieved by filling the whole area totally with no gaps, then putting the next layer on the same, with no gaps etc.

How "out of spec" is the staircase? If not much, I would just use the room, and accept when you sell on, it might still not be classed as a bedroom. To convert legally everything has to comply, stairs, headroom, insulation, fire escape access etc. Plenty of old houses with stairs that won't meet current building regs and they are not deemed "not habitable"

I perhaps should not mention that my Lamona dishwasher was £0 from Howdens, and included the door fixing kit.

Thanks. Just a few moments ago I found one on ebay and ordered that one. I don't want to get into a protracted fault finding saga, that would just take too long I fear.

I am concerned that the sprayed on paint just peels off. I don't think I have ever been able to peel off painted or rollered emulsion paint like that.

Grant Vortex Combi Oil boiler. Fault is the boiler fires once radiators warm up, boiler shuts off then radiators go cold. Go outside to boiler (it is an outdoor model) lights are normal indicating "demand" but no pump and no burner on. Turn the thermostat knob on the boiler down then back up, boiler fires up again for one cycle then does not come back on unless you repeat with the thermostat knob. Hot water functions still working normally. On this one the thermostat knob drives a potentiometer on the one and only circuit board. My guess it is probably one of the relays not working and I suspect the only cure is a new board. If only I could find one. Pictures including numbers: Any idea where I might get one?

It sounds like you want what I did in the utility room. Starting with a bare floor (in my case chipboard then ply glued and screwed) I went round the edges with tanking tape which goes about 2" up the wall all round. I then tiled the floor, making sure the grouting was good and all joints fully filled, and a tiled skirting made from strips cut from the same tiles, again all fully grouted. This is to ensure if there is a minor spill or leak from the washing machine, it can't get down any gaps at the edge of the room and under the floor. But it is not a proper wet room and in the event of a serious leak it would run out under the door into the hall.