ProDave

Do you have a link? So did the credit card just refund the money or are they paying out MORE than the original cost to out an oil system back? A cheap LG ASHP going somewhere if you are lucky.

I guess our sun room is outside the thermal envelope. It has a Rationel "external" French door pair between the house and the sun room, it will have no heating and no mvhr (so the windows in the sun room will have trickle vents) I don't recall how it was dealt with on the SAP calculations though.

What you have discovered is just above 0 is the worst temperature range for an ASHP as that is when most defrosting is likely. Once well below 0 there is simply not enough moisture in the air to cause frost to form. So you need the higher flow temperature when it's -10. What about when it is 0 outside? Will it work okay on the lower temperature? If so you could set your heat curve for 35 at 0 degrees and 45 at -10 degrees and see how that works. P.S. I have aluminium spreader plates used in what UFH we have upstairs and I do not find them as effective as UFH in a slab downstairs.

Long thread here Short version, I had trouble getting the water flow rate high enough, I had to fit a second pump to achieve that. Then I had issues with spurious low flow errors that I don't believe were really that simple. Read the thread if you are bored. In fairness mine is an old version and the ones supplied now are quite different with a different controller, so if my suspicion that my unit has a lot of bugs in the hardware / firmware are true, then hopefully they are sorted out with the current versions. I certainly don't hear of people having issues.

Does that grey upright member overhanging the tile in pic 2 slide with the window? If that is what has to clear the tiles I would be attacking the bottom with the multitool to give enough clearance to allow the tiles to sit a little higher.

I keep reading this and I keep coming back to the RED map the boundary lines up with the fence line of property "2" If that is what was actually intended and you have documents to prove that is what was offered then it appears to be a conveyancing mistake. your problem is the "vendor" no longer appears to be supporting that position and not prepared to agree that is what he intended?

There is one member on here had such a system fitted and has been battling since to get it to work properly. We suspect the ASHP is under sized for the building but as he did not pay for it he appears to be in a weak position when it comes to complaining about the issues. He gets a "well you got it for free what do you expect" sort of reply. So do your own sums of what you think you need and compare that to what you are offered.

What would it matter if it were a few mm above the door with a suitable edging? It is a sliding door so does not need to clear the door. Building regs allow a 15mm step in a "level threshold"

I keep asking and nobody yet has stated the regulation that says a fan isolator has to be fitted. I have never found it and neither has anybody else. It is "just what we do" My belief is that it is a miss interpretation of an industrial regulation regarding local isolation for fans, which makes sense so the person changing a fan belt on a 3 HP motor driven fan does not lose his arm when it starts up under remote control. It is totally irrelevant to a small domestic fan that at worst would give you a little nip if you put your finger in the rotating blades. Any sensible risk assesment would come to that conclusion. And anyone says you need local isolation to replace a broken bathroom fan with a permanent L better start fitting a 3 pole isolator next to a light fitting wired loop at light and so has a permanent L at the light fitting. Until someone quotes me the reg, I will continue not fitting them in rental properties. I have lost count how many times a tenant complains of damp and mould in a bathroom and they have turned the fan off because it was noisy. Tenants can be their own worst enemy.

If you are limited by external size that may be a valid argument, but on a 1/3 acre plot with no size limits you are better choosing the internal footprint you want, then choosing the "best" insulation and what does it matter if the walls are a bit thicker so the external size is bigger? Until I learned about decrement delay I thought "what's the difference" and thought it was all about U value. I suspect that is all a lot of people still look at and so it is natural to buy the insulation that gives your required U value in the minimum width, but that may not always be the best choice.

Lets hope you get it resolved. You really have not had much luck with this plumber.

I DIY installed my own LG ASHP. I had some issues with the ASHP but that was not down particularly to the installation so not relevant to this discussion. I did all the pipework for the UVC then got a local plumber to commision it and sign it off.

The long thermal time constant is down to using insulation with a long decrement delay, generally more dense materials like wood fibre, celulose, mineral wool etc will have a longer decrement delay than lightweight materials like kingspan etc. There are various on line tools you can use to look up the themal time constant of different wall build ups. Mine has a time lag of something line 13 hours. I recall someone modeling a wall on here with the same insulation U value but kingspan type insulation and it had a thermal log of just a few hours.

If it's not from the drains, my guess would be a dead mouse somewhere that has "gone ripe" The smell has to be smelled to be believed (then you wish you had not)

It is important that there is airflow between rooms. Fresh air is supplied to living rooms and bedrooms, stale air is extracted from bathrooms, kitchens and utility rooms. Doors should be trimmed to allow airflow under the bottom even when shut. The extract comes from a number of rooms, and if one is unused and unheated, that will lower the overall extract temperature as that is in effect the average of all the extract rooms temperatures.

I don't think anyone else has mentioned that will fail building regs. You need 2 metre headroom for the staircase and the "landing"

Does the ASHP have a pump built in? I have my suplimentary pump on the flow from the ASHP not the return (anyone else care to comment on that) I personally dislike 3 port valves. I have a 2 port valve for DHW and another two one for upstairs and downstairs UFH. I put the 2 port valves local to the UFH or DHW tank and put the automatic bypass at the DHW tank so it was as far away from the ASHP as possible. Many ASHP's will turn on and circulate water on their own when "off" as an anti freeze measure so need somewhere to get warm water from.

Your new top room is your bedroom where you sleep yes? Don't forget how much water vapour you exhale all the time you are in that room, and if in an effort to keep it warm you have no ventilation, that will just build up. If you don't want to ventilate the room properly then try a dehumidifier. They are noisy things so you won't want it running while you sleep, but try running one in the daytime when you are using a different room. Our old 1930's house was always a bit damp feeling and a dehumidifier would always suck a lot of water out from there and we used it from time to time if we thought it was getting a bit damp. A modern well insulated house with mvhr has none of these problems. Your issue seems just like a "problem" we had in a rental flat. the tenant was complaining of "damp" and on inspection there was condensation forming and running down the walls. Also it was cold, they were too tight or too poor to turn the heating on. All the vents were shut and the bathroom fan turned off (before I learned NEVER fit a fan isolator switch in a rental) and there was wet washing hanging everywhere. We never had a "damp" issue with any tenant before that one or after.

Sorry it's a poor photo, I must take a picture specifically of the under stair cupboard door. You can just see a glimpse of it through the banister rails. Almost identical to your cupboard, a door frame made of left over newel post parts to match the stairs. The door was made with left over engineered Oak floor boards, think "cottage door" with the good face of the boards showing on the outside, and on the inside the normal "Z" framework to hold it all together. It is not so pretty from the inside as that is the softwood underside of the engineered boards showing.

Do you have an independent and reliable thermometer? IF the extract air is only 15.4 degrees then it seems reasonable that the supply air temp is a little lower than that at 14.1 degrees. What that shows is the heat recovery is working well and most of the heat from the extract air is getting transferred to the supply air. With no heat recovery the incoming supply air would be a chilly 0.8 degrees and you WOULD notice that cold air coming in. So on the face of it, nothing to worry about here, other than perhaps why does it only think the extract air is only 15.4 degrees when you think the rooms are warmer?

Hi and welcome to the forum. And congratulations on the new addition shortly to arrive. Post a question and we will see if we can help.

Howdens, with some pre conceived ideas to start the ball rolling.

I see different maps with different boundaries, but I am confused. Which is the map shown on your title deeds? And does the map on your title deeds have a clearly identifiable feature like the 2 fences circled in the post above? And how does the position of the actual building compare to those identifiable features? At the moment I am seeing the house might extend outside the decrofted area, that is a different issue, but that alone does not mean it extends outside the land gifted to you.

My previous build in 2003 I did for about £650 per square metre. The present one is coming in just under £1000 per square metre. Both with me doing a lot of work, probably more if it on the present one, but on the other hand the present one is build to a higher finish, e.g. better doors and frames etc.

What you see happening on a lot of these GD's, is the self builders struggle on for weeks on end making painfully slow progress but say "we will be in in 3 months" Then 3 months later Kevin comes back and lo and behold it is finished, even the outside is tidied up and landscaped. Clearly they did not do all that themselves like they said they would, they must have got someone in, but will never admit it.