ProDave

I had already tried and failed searching screweys for Union, coupler and barrel and failed.

Yep that's it. Thank you. So it's a "socket" As always it's a case of knowing the correct name.

Will someone please give me the correct name so I can identify a plumbing fitting i need. I have two fittings each with a 1/4" BSP MALE thread. I want to join them together. I thought what I wanted was called a coupler, but searching for that does not find it. I don't mind if it's brass or iron.

We just use a manual timed boost, anything from half an hour to 2 hours, depending how late you shower (don't want it on boost speed at bed time)

Like I say, I am not a roofer, but the few slate roofs I have seen have all been nailed at the top, just like you do with concrete tiles. Every day is a learning day.

No you need to take the liners out of the wall and start again. 826+42+42 =910 so it will just fit with the liners tight to the frame with no spacers, and that hopes the frame is square and true. When I fitted mine, i made a gauge just by cutting a spare bit of wood to 826mm long and ensured that fitted between the two sides of the door liner.

The big issue with a non inverter heat pump is the high start up current, the DNO's get worried about them, causing your lights to dip when a large direct start compressor starts.

No, 22mm or possibly 28mm copper, with a set number of bends and a defined discharge position. I did this myself and the plumber who connected and comissioned the tank was happy, but this was a plumber I knew and with his prior agreement.

You can buy a Telford stainless UVC for about £1000 Are you really saying your plumber is going to charge £1800 to fit it? That would be 6 days labour at £300 per day to do what is probably no more than 2 days job. Try a different plumber.

I have never done a slate roof, but I question why the tops of your slates only just reach a little onto their respective battens? I would have thought the top of the slate would go all the way to the top of the batten with the nail hole positioned to put the nails in the middle of the batten? And could the wobbly slate not just have an extra bit of batten fitted lower down to support it's top edge?

I have never seen ceiling plasterboard fixed just with adhesive. It is usually screwed in place, but in the old days would have been nailed in place.

Decent air tightness is not expensive, it just requires everyone working on the build to understand what they are doing. The issue with dot and dab if not done properly is the void between the PB and the wall can become the famous "plasterboard tent" if the top and bottom are not fully sealed to prevent them venting to a cold loft or under floor space. THAT is where you should be talking to your builder. As this is a conventional block build, I would suggest you plaster straight onto the blocks. Very little to go wrong with that. The main reason dot and dab plasterboard is used is to prevent the need for a plaster skim and it is just taped and filled at the joints.

I am interested in what was there before. I am wondering as a replacement dwelling, you have had to almost hide it down in a dip behind a stone wall just to get permission, when it is a replacement dwelling. Was the original also hidden like that?

My thoughts on tumble dryers are well known. They exist to make towels and socks "fluffy" to the satisfaction of SWMBO, and that does NOT mean they have to come out dry. Final drying and drying of stuff that does not have the "fluffy" requirement is done on the airer in the utility room with an mvhr exhaust vent above it. Ours is a condensing tumble dryer and using that breaks my heartslightly less as it's heat stays in the room, compared to one that just blows 2kW of heat straight out of a hole in the wall. Spend the money and get a new dryer, small money in the house building scheme, and re evaluate what it is actually needed for.

I have my hot water in the tank at 48 degrees. That is plenty. That temperature was found by experiment, if i run a kitchen sink full of water using just the hot tap, I can just, and only for a short period, immerse my hands in it. There is no point having washing up water hotter than you can put your hands in. Occasionally if I want to soak something pre wash, e.g. a baking tray with something baked on then that is a case for some really hot water (as you won't be putting your hands in it) for that I run some water from the boiling water tap. I think the Mixergy tank concept is something that all tanks pretty much do anyway. I am happy with my Telford heat pump tank, and I would have thought the twin coil one linked above would do, but go for at least 300 litres.

Why do you think you need 3 phase? nice to get if you can but not essential for that size of property. I would go in with 36kVA 3 phase, that would easily do all you want and loads more. If the DNO cough at that, ask them what they can provide. In other words pass the buck back to them.

That statement and the rest of this thread would not encourage me to buy an unservicable unit like this.

Just out of interest how do you change these. They are full of "magic potion" not water. Does it just work in the principle you only change the heater when it is cold and the potion is in the solid state so it just stays put when you unscrew the heater?

Is that flooring "structural"? I very much doubt it at that thickness, so it will expect a firm flat stable base to be laid on. The UFH system does not fit that description on it's own so well need something like ply to provide that base. Our own Oak flooring was bought specifically as a structural floor board and is a lot thicker about 22mm iirc and being suitable to lay directly on the UFH and be a structural board to span the 400mm centre joists was a requirement given to the supplier.

You want old school heaters, NOT this LOT20 rubbish. An old fashioned storage heater that is nothing but a heating element a thermostat and a pile of bricks would work but almost impossible to buy those new now. For simple panel heaters, a bit less hard to find non LOT20 heaters. The simple plug in ones (that can be wall mounted but not very pretty) are still widely available https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334170215917?epid=8033159787&hash=item4dce18d5ed:g:2V8AAOSwjVthWyiX These are available in any number of places e.g are on sale in our local hardware shop etc. I paid about £20 each for our ones.

Well at least you did it in manageable byte sized work packages. And glad to know I am not the slowest builder on the forum.

I have my (home made) PV diverted connected to a 700W convector heater as an additional load, mainly for when the surplus PV is more than the immersion heater can sink on it's own. It does not come on at this time of year, what little surplus there is easily gets absorbed by the immersion heater. But it is useful mainly in the spring when it is still cold enough to need heating but the solar PV is usually doing well.

I think that is a technical analysis of an issue I have observed before. A plain brick wall of a house will absorb moisture from rain. In a typical house there is enough heat leaking out through that wall to keep the surface temperature of the wall above 0. Insulating the inside too well results in the outer surface of the wall getting below 0, and any moisture in the wallfreezing, expanding and the bricks failing. This is very noticable with garden walls, that have no heat escaping through them, and the fail due to frost damage. A near neighbour has re rendered his garden wall several times and within 2 years the render has failed and fallen off due to this effect, that would not happen with a house wall.

Your heat pump is presently connected to the main 24/7 supply so will presently get billed at the peak rate mostly. If you moved the heat pump to the bottom consumer unit, one of the bank in the middle like the now vacant one that used to feed Bed+Bath that would put it on the permanent cheap rate feed. Any competent electrician could swap that over for you.

Right, this THTC tariff. It was something unique to SSE (I believe also in the southern half of SSE) and at the time was sold as "total control" It is basically a normal off peak tariff that I think broadly mimics Economy 10 in that you get 10 hours of off peak rate over 3 different periods. The off peak supply feeds things like storage heaters, but it sounds like you don't have those any more. That accounts for one of your electricity meters that is a normal dual rate meter. The thing that makes THTC unique, is the second meter gives you a 24/7 always on cheap rate supply that is supposed to only be used for "heating appliances" which includes a shower, electric panel heaters, and of course in your case the ASHP. So check that when the ASHP is on, it is the single "total control" meter that is counting up and you are being billed at the cheaper rate for that. Your fuse boxes will usually be complicated and at least 2 of them, one bank of circuit breakers should be labelled "total control" and it is one of those that your ASHP should be connected to. Now the bad news, the SSE THCT tariff is not a good rate. It is also very hard to switch suppliers as most other energy suppliers can't cope with the metering. I believe @newhome did manage after a long search to find another supplier to take on the THTC supply and she got a better rate by doing that. Perhaps she can come and join in and give advice on that? I am not familiar with the Ecodan heat pumps so I will let someone else answer specific questions about settings etc.