ProDave

If you want that level of performance go for MVHR. Use the shower light fitting as the MVHR extract in the bathroom if you want to keep the light fitting.

What have you got against plasterboard boxes? Easier for all trades and you get some choice of final socket positions near final fix not all rigigly set at first fix. a 35 mm dry lining box is a good fit in 25mm battens and 12.5mm plasterboard.

Picture?

Storage heaters charge up with heat from usually 7 hours of cheap rate electricity from roughhy midnight to 7AM, so at 5AM they will have been charging for 5 hours so the brick core will be close to it's maximum temperature by then. No surprise it feels very hot. The trick is to keep the "output" control down as low as possible as long as possible to keep the heat in as much as possible and then turn the output control up in the evening to let the remaining heat out quicker. Some try and automate this a bit with crude bimetailic mechanism. If you changed them just a few years ago they won't be the bomb proof simple old type, but something more complicated with electronic controls and a permanent supply as well as the off peak supply. These tend to concentrate on maintaining a constant temperature, using peak rate electricity to make up any short fall in stored heat. I would not personally choose that type, I would have kept the old one. Most bits of the old ones can be fixed or replaced.

Your signal is pretty weak. Can you do anything to improve it, bigger aerial, higher aerial, re align the aerial etc, or even try a different location for the aerial. What does the signal checker database say here? https://www.freeview.co.uk/corporate/detailed-transmitter-information

What boiler, where, what fuel, and most important question, has it EVER worked properly with this controller, or did it work properly with a previous controller?

That's because the wind is not blowing and we don't have enough storage. I could have told you that as well. And as for our energy crisis in general, there was a member on here predicting this 2 or 3 years ago, mainly about our ageing nuclear stations mostly just about at end of life some have been extended just a little, but that is a lot of generation about to be lost and the replacements are only just being ordered. Wind farms are great and clean, but when there is no wind you need a backup. It's about time our planning actually said we will retain a certain amount of fossil fuel capacity to be used in such circumstances. It's a good job there were still a couple of coal fired stations that had not been torn down or we would have been in trouble this winter.

Switzerland may have to ban the use of EV's this winter as there is not enough electricity to charge them. https://hotair.com/jazz-shaw/2022/12/01/swiss-look-to-ban-use-of-electric-cars-over-the-winter-to-save-energy-n514785 I have speculated before, not much point in mass adoption of EV's until there is sufficient renewable power to charge them and the grid is capable of supporting the massive extra load that will be needed.

Find the appropriate menu on your tv to show signal strength and quality. It is is marginal, then it only takes a small dip in signal or a bit of electrical interference to break up the signal. It is all or nothing, there is no such thing like in the old days of the picture gradually getting worse as the signal drops.

I am not sure what he is suggesting there. Either the builder buys it and zero rates it to you, or you buy it on your own account from the merchant and the invoice clearly gives your name and address. You will pay the VAT up front and re claim it at the end of the year. Obviously keep all the invoices.

Re the earlier question do builders get a better price. Very debatable. they may get more "trade discount" than you could get with your own account, but they have little incentive to spend hours phoning all the different merchants to seek the best price, or look on line etc. they are more likely just to place an order with their favourite merchant and not haggle as "the customer pays" So you might do what all us penny pinching under funded self builders do and spend hours getting the best deal on absolutely everything. I guess it depends how much time you have free for that and how good you think you are at it.

Assuming the builder is VAT registered, then no, he will reclaim the VAT and zero rate it to you. If it is a small tradesman like me below the threshold for VAT registration, then I would give you a shopping list and advise you to buy the materials so you could reclaim the VAT and my labour would not have VAT on it. If I bought the materials I would have no way to reclaim the VAT.

Any "supply and fit" on a new build should be zero rated by the tradesman or builder, you won't be able to claim back any VAT charged by them. You might need to provide them with some evidence like planning permission to convince them it is a new build particularly for things near the ens of the build where it might look like a finished house (almost) The VAT re claim is only for materials that YOU buy to be incorporated in the build. Address does not matter, we started off with our old address, then swapped part way through to the new build address when we moved into the static caravan.

"Loop at switch" is the phrase your electrician should understand

Having been to Portland just once, it would be the traffic through Weymouth that you have to crawl through every time you want to get somewhere that would put me off.

Mine was 85mm thick, and they ran out and had to get some more so probably ended up a bit over that thickness. It took 3 of them working their socks off best part of a day to lay my 105 square metres.

I paid £5900 for 105 square metres of driveway to be surfaced. The sub base was already down, levelled and whackered and all drainage and edging in place. I thought that was a lot, but all 3 contractors I saw quoted within a few ££ of each other. That's £56 per square metre. If that scales up, a 100 metre long 3 metre wide drive would be £16,857

One immediate issue is you have RCD's in the main CU and also in the CU by the meter. The reason for changing the cable, is SWA does not need RCD protection. So you can dispense with the RCD at the mini CU by the meter. Did your electrician do insulation test readings (he should have) Everything was only "fine" before because the old CU / fuse box did not have the ability to detect an earth leakage fault.

There will be a small change of pipe diameter. If you don't put an IC there, how far along the run is the next one? I would just do it, because it is so easy and you can never have too many. BC in Scotland will probably insist on it being pressure tested. More reason for an IC so they only test the new bit.

the first contractor I tried to get my drive done kept me waiting 2 months with no hint of when they might be able to do it. the second one did it in less than a week.

So how will you rod it when blocked? You have the hole in the ground, just put an IC in there, not worth arguing why not to.

Re the highway verge thing. when I was doing our planning, the council first wanted me to "demonstrate control over the visibility splay" well part of it was two neighbours front gardens. I didn't really want to be negotiating with them. I managed to get the planning amended to remove the "demonstrate control" clause after speaking to highways who told me the 3 metre thing. He said any unfenced land within 3 metres of the road, if there is an obstruction restricting the visibility, just tell us and we will come and remove it. That's why to strengthen your position if not fenced, get it fenced now. If not you might just find one day someone has cleared it and there might not be anything you can do.

Are you SURE they connected the mixing valve correctly?

+1 to re doing the submain in SWA (if not already? Take the cover of that mini CU and post a picture inside) I would probably then replace that mini CU with a switch fuse.

Yes looks like lead with a nice wiped soldered joint to a copper stub.