ProDave

Or need to plant a treatment plant.....

I doubt the cost of charging small things like that is significant. Though I would not do it during the silly early evening rip off peak.

Hi and welcome.

That looks very nice. I would be wondering if there was any chance of reinstating the water wheel, even thought the pond has gone, is there still a stream passing by to feed it?

If it is a vented system, then the pressure in the pipes will always be low and should be constant, any expansion due to heat pushes the water back up into the header tank. I would expect a pressure gauge to register very little pressure, so the question now become WHY does it increase when it gets hot? I would just expect the expansion to raise the level in the header tank slightly and the increase in pressure to be almost nothing.

Can you post some pictures of your hot water tank and pipework and other gubbins around it?

Regardless of the source of your water you would expect the heating circuit to be a closed system with an expansion vessel. It is quite likely the expansion vessel has failed. Can you see a largish white or red tank anywhere with a single pipe connecting into the bottom?

Is 64 nets what you see on that pallet? That does not look much for £485 to me? but I am used to free firewood (requires the graft though)

I used to HATE houses that had the stairs rising from the living room. A sure sign the house is too small to support a proper hall. My first house, a 1980's new build shoe box was like that. The very last place to put the sofa was anywhere near that. And my MIL had a similar house. It was toasty warm on the landing and freezing in the living room. She largely solved it with a heavy curtain all around the stairwell but it was not pretty. In a properly insulated hose this become irellevant, no cold air coming down my stairs here.

So you have chosen a tariff with very cheap off peak and very expensive peak to get cheaper heating? but then face the challenge of the extortionate day rate. You plan to solve that by installing a battery system to shift all your day usage to off peak. It is no good calculating your "saving" by basing it on your now very high day rate. You really want to cost your electricity on your old rate, probably about 30p compared to shifting all if it to the 7p off peak rate, so a saving of about 23p per kWh not 47.5

Never noticed a problem.

48 degrees, found by experiment as the hottest task you normally have to perform is kitchen washing up and with no cold added, I can just, and only just put my hands in the water without it being painful. I see no need for any hotter than that, but if such a need arrises, there is the boiling water tap.

I have resisted posting because this is not a typical developer new house, but my self build, built to largely passive house principles but no attempt to have it analysed let alone certified as a passive house. 150 square metres 1.4 air tightness ASHP under floor heating downstairs only triple glazed and MVHR Last 12 months heating the ASHP consumed 1200kWh so that's 8 kWh of electricity per square metre or about 24kWh of heat delivered. In addition the ASHP has consumed 1000kWh heating the DHW (metered separately to heating usage) And this in the east Highlands where the last week of cold weather that brought the UK almost to a halt, is just a normal weeks weather here in the winter.

Then "health and safety" has over stepped it's intended function. I await the description of how passing through the intermediate bedroom is a risk to your health and safety.

You have a very different household to me. At times our 300L tank is barely enough. Our showers can run in excess of 10L per minute so you are expecting a woman with long hair to shower, wash, rinse and condition their hair in 8 minutes. You have not met my wife and daughter. Double that time and water consumption and my 300L tank barely does 2 lady showers, certainly not if it has done 1 much shorter man shower first. Tell them to turn it down to a trickle and they don't see why they have to put up with sub standard. And nearly 2 hours to re heat it "sorry dear you have to wait 2 hours if you want a shower as well" lands you in the dog house. Oh and most ASHP's (probably all) stop heating the house when they heat the hot water. Ours likes to only do DHW in half hour chunks. You can fiddle with parameters to make it do DHW for longer before reverting to space heating.

Joke of the year award. While having to pass through one bedroom to get to another is not something I want because the occupants of the intermediate bedroom lack any privacy, it is most certainly NOT a "health and safety issue"

I would not go lower than 5kW otherwise I think the DHW reheat times would be too slow. They are already much slower than a gas or oil boiler.

It is a marketing tool, to try and convince the customer they will save money and encourage them to get a smart meter to enable it. I would love to see the statistics for domestic usage in the pesky early evening peak. We are constantly being told that is when demand is higher. So a lot of households must use a substantial part of their daily usage in that peak time? For us it is really just the oven that bothers me and not something I want to have to time shift. But if we all scrap gas, there are going to be a LOT more electric ovens..........

Assuming the chain is what pulls the door up, using it on the small sprocket the door will lift slower. So being forced to use the large sprocket (because the small one is no longer there) would lift the door further for each rotation, thus to my simple mind the torque on the shaft would be more and therefore forces on the teeth would be more. So I would say the small sprocket is what you want. Will you be around in 25 years to replace it again?

It's that pesky 4pm to 8pm silly high peak that I don't want.

And another advantage of a sloping site can be no much away charges. Just use all the excavated soil to build up the lower part of the site to make it a bit less of a slope.

Hi and welcome @R2021 Sounds a good project. I will open the conversation with what air tightness and insulation levels are you aiming for. As you are having MVHR one assumes good? I am a happy user of Rationel 3G aluminium clad doors and windows.

At the other end of the spectrum, you know when your air tightness is good, when on a windy day you can open ONE door or window and not feel a draught entering or leaving the building through it. Every house I have know before, if you open a door on a very windy day, somewhere in the house an internal door will blow shut or blow open due to the gale blowing through the house.

So it sounds like it was tripping on insufficient water flow. Perhaps there is a filter of some sort that is partly blocked and increasing the pump speed has get the flow back to acceptable limits. This is one area heat pump manufacturers could improve. My unit tripped with a low flow error (at least it had the grace to tell you why it had tripped) when I first installed it. Water flow was measured with a flow switch. Now the stupid bit, the installation manual did not even state what the minimum flow was. It took a call to the manufacturer to find that out. I then had to buy a flow meter to find out how far short I was, and the answer was not a lot. I added a second pump to boost the flow.

I was having a discussion with a joiner friend of mine today, and he is saying one of the merchants is telling him that Multipanel are currently not supplying their normal panels with a marine ply backing but instead only supplying them with an MDF backing. Anyone else able to confirm or deny this rumour?