ProDave

Can you post a picture further out to give more context of what we are looking at there. Where are the lights? indeed where is even the ceiling plasterboard? How are you seeing this or is it not yet finished and the plasterboard is not yet on?

That is not where the pipe fits, that is where the trap screws on, it is not intended to take a pipe int there. the outlet of a trap is a compression fitting with a rubber seal with enough flex to accommodate the different sizes of "40mm" pipes

I always encourage my customers of a new build to buy the materials themself and I just give them a shopping list.

Just buy it, it will fit, in the UK there are really only 2 sizes, bath and basin. You would be very unlucky of you had a non UK bath waste and trap fitted. UK waste pipe sizes annoy me, just look at how many different sized "40mm" pipes there are available. but at least the screw thread fittings for wastes and traps is pretty standard.

Not meant to be serious: Turn gas off. Drill hole. Turn gas on. Can you smell gas from the hole? If you can you know where the pipe is and where to repair it. If not, you missed the pipe. Hang the cupboard. For a final sanity check, get a gas safe engineer to do a drop test, just in case you grazed it and made a minute hole.

Are you SURE that is a term going to be used? Or just some journalistic slang? There are some things you might do for not a lot of ££ that might be worth a punt but I won't say as I am considering a punt.

I will be interested to see the final outcome, in particular exactly what standards are set (continual use of passivhouse or whatever standards we propose) and how they verify it. While I want to see houses built better, I would not want to burden every builder with being forced to pay for true passivehouse verification. I speak as someone recently completed what I regard as a very successful low energy new build, but one I know would have failed true passivehouse verification. Is it really asking for ALL new houses to be better than mine? Much of the present problems are simply down to poor implementation. In recent years I have wired two new builds where parts of the insulation were installed appallingly badly almost to the point it might as well not have been there. Present building regs inspections missed that in both cases. Roll on 5 years and I predict we will be seeing threads "Why is my Scottish Passivehoose costing so much to heat"

Sometimes the whole outer chrome bit of the overflow unscrews like a big nut threaded onto the plastic bit.

It looks like one of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-bath-waste-overflow-16/1236p As @PeterW says in the centre of the chrome bit the plug fits into should be a screw, which you undo the separate the two parts. A common mistake is over tightening. The "nut" in the bottom part is on a plastic web and over tightening can crack and weaken that.

You have a pretty good EPC rating there. Fit some solar PV and you would easily be up to an EPC A which is nice to have.

So I assume the flashing green light means it is burst firing the heater. I would set the thermostat in the loft to maximum so the heater runs at full power, and leave the nest room thermostat to turn it on and off as needed. I think the heater is in the right place. Putting it on the exhaust before the heat exchanger would probably just result in a percentage of the new heat being expelled as the heat exchanger is not 100% efficient.

A low energy house (assuming that is what this is) will not need much heat input to maintain the temperature. But it will need a lot more heat to raise the temperature to a comfortable level if it has been allowed to get cold. I think you are confusing what the sensor and thermostat does. It does not set the temperature of the air blowing out of the vents, it is a room temperature sensor. The air will blow out of the vents at whatever temperature the heater can manage, until the room reaches the required temperature, then the heater will switch off. Thereafter it will cycle on and off from time to time to maintain the room temperature. So set it to 20 degrees and leave it alone for a while. EDIT: post a picture of the thermostat you are talking about in case it is me that has misunderstood it?

The immediate thing on that photo of the manifold is the numbers on the actuators are not matching the writing on the manifold You need someone to check that the actuators are really all in the correct place, otherwise you may have the actuator for one room controlled by a different thermostat.

The fact that much of what you say is sadly a symptom of "over burdened with silly rules" If the environmental / wildlife rules were simple, cheap and logical everybody, including farmers, would abide by them and wildlife would be better for it. Put too many stupid, over expensive, over time consuming and bureaucratic rules and a percentage will do as your farmers and the result is "what wildlife, there is nothing in this stinking pond" But the people that make the rules cannot see this is happening and their rules ARE the problem. We were lucky here that there were never any wildlife hoops to jump through, in spite of having a burn running through the site, and I know there are bats here, you see them flying about at dusk. The result of no silly rules is we just got on with is sympathetically. We did not harm the burn but neither did we need any tests, rules or barriers to ensure we did not harm it. There were no buildings on our site so the bats were not living there so we did not need a survey to tell us there were no bats put in danger. We just got on with it. We did not need someone to tell me there was a root protection zone around a tree and put a barrier to show it, we just knew not to undermine the roots of a tree. The trees are still there without a survey or silly rules to protect them.

For those reading (too late for the OP I am afraid) once you have your perfect line painted on the ground, you set up "profiles" around the site, far enough back to not be bothered by the digger, and these mark the lines you want to achieve. So once the digger gets busy you can check you are digging in the right place with a laser or even a simple string line between your profiles.

As above. Unless you have a gable wall full of glass, your view will be restricted by window positioning. Are you building TF or brick and block? Once foundations are in up to slab level, you might want then to check all window positions are correct and see if you need to move or re size some windows to maximise views.

Some of us (cough) run the MVHR at a slightly lower rate than building regs require, based on the fact the house has fewer occupants than building regs would count for the number of bedrooms. This makes it totally silent in all rooms and we still get lovely fresh air and no condensation or mould. Mine is also a basic unit and the only user controls we have are a timed boost activated with a button on the landing that we use when showering, that puts it into fastest speed for your chosen time period when showering. and another timed boost button in the kitchen that runs it at an intermediate speed while cooking.

So I must be the only one that used an old chisel to chip away the proud bits of plaster to allow my skirting to fit nicely, rather than complain about it? My take on plasterers, most concentrate on getting 99% of the wall flat and smooth, and don't or can't attend to all the detail like some of the edges and around electrical boxes. They leave that for the decorator to sort out. (but the plasterer that filled the electrical back boxes one one job deserved the sack)

I am in that group, but will compromise in that we already have one hybrid, and that will no doubt at some point get replaced with an EV. But we will retain one ICE car for the stuff that is beyond the ability of an EV. The good thing being the ICE car will not be doing much mileage in that mix.

I hope it is a modern LED lightweight 40" tv not my prehistoric (takes 2 to lift it) plasma!!!!!

So 14500kWh of heat is going to need about 4833 kWh of electricity, and at about 33p per kWh at the moment that is going to cost you about £1600 per year. As most of that will be in the winter 6 months, that will average £265 per month in the winter with more of that in the coldest months and less in the shoulder months. How are your actual bills comparing to that prediction so far? Hopefully like mine, the EPC over estimated the heating and my actual bills are lower.

One or 2 of the split aircon units would do the job, and give you the advantage of being a heat pump so roughly for every 1kWh of electricity you use, you will get about 3kWh of heat. If they are all on the same side of the house, you can buy ones that have just one outside unit that feeds to a number of inside units making it both cheaper and neater. If the house was built with the 2.4kW duct heater as the only heating source, one would hope that means it has been built very well insulated so it only needs a small heat input.

That shows the heat recovery is working. If the heat recovery was not working then the air being blown into the room would be a LOT lower than 18 degrees at the moment due to the very cold weather we have at the moment. The incoming air is never going to be as warm as the house temperature when it is cold, as the heat recovery is not 100% efficient but is sounds like it is quite close so doing the best it can.

So are you actually saying the room temperature on the display can be say 1 degree higher than the set point, and it is still showing the wiggly line "heating" symbol on the thermostat?

Can you explain the context of this picture? Is it the right way up? If so most of your pipe loops go UP from the manifold. That is not normal. Usually the manifold is on the wall and the pipes come out of the bottom and into the floor. Pipes going up will need provision for bleeding air out of them at the highest point, otherwise air will collect and you might get air locks which could explain some parts of the floor remaining cold.