ProDave

It is probably all down to visibility distance and the speed of the road. Just because there is an access there already, does not mean a new one will be approved if it does not meet the required visibility distance of a 40mph road. Of course if, before you applied for planning for the extension you changed the driveway to be using the existing dropped curb to the 40mph road, then you could refer to continuing to use the existing access to the 40mph road. that all depends of anybody notices if you have only just changed that.

For me, this one, BUT with WC and basin on the same wall (top in picture) Basin to right, wc to left (so WC is not in line with the door so less important to shut it)

The big problem with angle grinders, particularly big ones, is the big kick they give at start up. Why oh why they don't have a soft start to wind them up slowly and avoid that big kick beats me (perhaps new ones do, mine are quite old) No chainsaw I have had has such a kick. I did find my old McCulloch chainsaw pretty dangerous because it's throttle mechanism was lousy and more often than not it would not return to a slow idle so if you wanted to put it down, the chain was still running. My new Titan one from Screweys is very much better and this much safer to use. To cut 40cm logs in half you will need a saw horse and you will need to cut about 3/4 of the way from the top and the last 1/4 from below, or better still, put the saw down, rotate the log 180 degrees and cut the remainder from the top.

My big issue is having to make the dogleg through the walk in wardrobe to even get to the en-suite. I would have the door to the en-suite straight ahead as you enter the wardrobe from the bedroom, and then start planning the en-suite layout from there. It would probably be better moving the door from the bedroom to wardrobe to the right to align with the existing door into the en-suite.

I knew them as hop ups, and have only seen them in 1 and 2 board widths.

What sort of scaffold? Just plain poles with clamps at each join? Or a system scaffold like Kwikstage or cuplock?

We just got a standard lousy BT wet string copper connection for barely faster than dial up speed "broadband" That was all that was available. We stuck with it in the mistaken belief that "super fast broadband" would be available to all. But that promise never happened. Eventually a private wireless delivered system became available that gives us about 60 MBPS which is faster but I would hardly call it "super fast" I am still bitter at the promises of super fast broadband to all was just a pack of lies.

Anyone thinking of switching to Octopus, PM me for a referal code to get you £50 credit.

There is nothing wrong with a diverter once working, it is something you just leave alone to do it's thing. You say you had it fitted. Call the fitter back to check it is working and show you how to understand the information displayed.

I think you need to give details of which diverter? and if you have it a link to the users manual. Immediate questions are HOW does it know "water hot" Does it have a temperature probe? What other connections other than the current transformer?

Is this a structural floor (spanning between joists) or thinner planks overlaid over some other structural flooring? It doesn't look like an expansion gap issue to me.

Where is the temperature probe? i.e. how far up the cylinder. Where is the probe that the heat pump uses?

I guess the old poor housing stock issue could be tackled another way. If you really can change all our electricity generation to carbon neutral, and provide lots of it, then perhaps the thinking is, it does not matter if old houses use a lot of energy to heat them, as long as it really is carbon neutral generated energy.

Shop around. SIG gave me by far the best price for Frametherm.

It CAN'T. The sooner the politicians accepted that, and then set about what CAN be achieved, the better. We have a well insulated low energy house but I don't kid myself it is carbon neutral. It NEVER will be until ALL the electricity generated comes from renewables. I doubt that will ever happen. But it does annoy me how some people are completely disinterested in at least trying to make things better. I have wired several new builds where the owners / builders were trying, and generally going a good job of well insulated and air tight. I have also done 2 that were notably complete rubbish (same builder) lots of insulation but installed so appallingly badly with gaps for air to bypass much of it rendering it useless, and no understanding from the builder at how bad it was. But building control do not seem to check these things. And the mass market builders still build to the absolute minimum that will pass building regs, the only solution for that attitude is make the absolute minimum standard acceptable a bloody good standard. But the issue of what to do with the old houses, nobody has a clue or has the courage to talk about it. The best we have is rip out the boiler and replace with an ASHP and that will solve it. In your dreams. I really wish some respected think tank would pick up on this, spell it out, that we are NOT going to reach carbon neutral, so now lets focus our attention on doing the best we can. One that made my blood boil, i saw an advert for some of these posh electric panel heaters, advertised as something like "heat your home with zero carbon" NO THEY ARE NOT and won't be until ALL electricity generation is carbon neutral. People are being conned, they will buy those and think that is all they have to do and not bother doing anything else. If only they understood or were advised properly.

How is your hot water heated now? I am guessing combi boiler if you don't have a HW tank? What are you expecting? To stop using the combi and just use HW from an UVC? Or fit a pre heat tank to soak up some of the surplus PV (some combi boilers can take pre heated water in, but someone else will have to advise if yours is one) That's only about 3kWh per day average going spare, that on it's own won't do all your DHW needs.

Best of luck with that. They would not supply glass only to us, even as part of an order for the windows for our sun room. The only choice we had was the 2 local run of the mill window companies and were less than impressed by what they offered. You might be lucky and find a glazing supplier near you that actually understands windows and will make you a decent pane.

You biggest challenge will not be the cost, but finding someone that can actually make a 3G pane as good as the original one supplied.

So how does just 2 skylights comply with being a means of escape?

There is a house near me, roofed with some plastic coated box profile roofing, about 20 years old now. Almost all the plastic coating has fallen off, I assume a UV problem, but interestingly the steel it has left behind has not rusted yet, so assume galvanised.

Yes definitely fit isolators in flow and return, will save you a lot of grief if you need to change or replace anything.

If you moved it to the right slightly so it aligned exactly centred on that window, I bet it would look a whole lot better.

Interested in the bedroom (last picture), I assume there is a normal window as well as the roof windows? Looking all very nice.

No home automation here and bathtub cost £300, another self builder nearby bought it then changed his mind so we got it less than cost price.

It was at least a different take on self building, but I bet the £100K did not include services etc let alone buying the plot. One think I did not like about the old series was the wacky ideas like cladding walls in strips of old pallet wood to save (at the time) about £5 per sheet of plasterboard. If you take out plot price, services, legal costs etc our build was about £140K just a little under £1K per square metre. I doubt with inflation you could replicate that cost now. But we didn't scrimp on quality, we just shopped around a lot to ensure what we bought was the best price we could find.