ProDave

All graphs are showing a step in temperature at roughly 02:00 when it is not heating, what happens then? The step is a similar size to the other steps later on when it is heating.

Those graphs confuse me. If the set temp is 16 degrees and the actual temp is fluctuating around 17 degrees, why is it even calling for heat? Are those room temperatures? If so I can't believe the room temperature goes up and down so rapidly, so I would be looking at some other local heat source confusing the thermostat. Is it near a fridge for instance and the heat from the back of that influencing the thermostat?

It looks like the rope is either not in the right place or too thin?

Once the bridge unit is screwed to the adjacent tall units it won't need much more support. Our last kitchen had shallow cupboards as the bridge (to give the FF plenty of ventilation so were nowhere near the wall and were only supported by the adjacent units.

Rotate the bath 90 degrees and put it on the wall where the towel rail is. Then a corner shower cubicle left of the basin

Air to Air heat pump for the summer house independant of the main house.

You have to wonder how these firms work. I wired a bungalow near here (single phase) but I did not do the ASHP. Instead a local renewable energy firm installed it, and they installed it's own consumer unit to power it. Perhaps that is what BG are proposing but don't understand basic things about electricity. It is quite shocking how many electricians don't understand anything about 3 phase. I am fortunate I started in an industrial environment where it was perfectly normal.

I have a wood burner because we have ample wood and without it I would be giving it away to someone else to burn. So it is free heat. I have never claimed it is eco friendly or carbon neutral.

Mine is 1972 so 50 years old and it would take your washing machine without problem. But no I am not on my way to collect it.

That is what breakdown insurance is for. You could have had a ride home in the nice warm cab of the recovery truck.

They should be okay. The point of removing the link is to see which one is triggering. When you know that, swap them over and see if the same one triggers again. If it is one in the same location triggering after swapping them it is time to look very hard for a real problem.

Building regs still requires a boost mode above the normal continuous rate. Are you sure they have done their sums properly for a continuous running ventilation system? 300m3/h sounds way too high, like they have taken the rates for intermittent extract fans? I would double check that. And many of us here run our systems at a much lower rate without problem.

As there are only 2, disconnect the link wire at one end. Then you will know which one is going off as it won;t trigger the other. What make and how old? It might just be time to replace them. Before anyone asks, I only ever recommend Aico smoke alarms.

Yes, the same sort of greenwash that says burning trees is good.

We had a granite worktop installed by Stone Source in Inverness. They gave me a few minutes to fit the tap into the worktop before they then bonded the undermount sink to it.

I suspect most of us (well me at least) just start on the mid speed of the pump, and if it all works well, slow the pump down. My aim was to run the pump at the slowest setting (quietest) that would deliver the required heat to the house. Having first changed the cheap noisy pump for a Wilo.

Nothing to stop you buying your own electricity meter and fitting it AFTER the DNO's meter as a check meter. I have one, but wired backwards to record how much I export. Some of the cheap clip on wireless ones are useless for me at least, as they can't differentiate between imported and exported electricity.

Block up and completely seal the hole you made, otherwise that will be letting heat out.

Okay so block and beam floor. What insulation was placed on top of that? Do you have a picture of this insulation duvet?

What exactly is the floor make up, including this duvet you talk about? A timber suspended floor needs ventilation. But if the floor structure is built properly the heast lost through the floor should be no more and hopefully less than the heat lost through the walls. Did you have it built? If so do you recall much about the process? A lot of causes of excessive heat loss are poor detail, like for instance gaps in the insulation or an over large hole where e.g drain pipes exit etc.

The panel heaters would continue working and continue to be metered on their own cheap rate meter. What would stop working is the rate switching of the main meter, and the switching on of the storage heaters when it should be off peak rate. As that is all embeded in the suppliers metering, there would not be much you could do about it yourself.

Which is why beyond the heavy stuff, many of us choose to do all the details like this ourselves. If you have the time and can tolerate a slower build, it is the easiest way to make a self build very much cheaper. It also means you can make changes as you go if you see something could be done a slightly different way.

Our new house is the first house I have ever had, where the external wall surface is cold enough (due to so little heat loss) for frost to form on the render on a cold night (and on the outside of the 3G windows) I do wonder if that is a contrubutor to the problems I have had (and probably not entirely fixed yet) with my thin coat render. My suspicion that if any wind driven rain can find an opening to get in and not run off, then it will freeze and cause issues. This is of course much more likely to happen in an exposed spot in the Highlands than in a sheltered spot somewhere less cold. I notice around here, not one single garden wall that has been rendered has managed to keep it's render for more than about 2 years.

Interesting about take up more in rural areas, that must be (the main reason I chose one) is no mains gas available.

I wonder if part of the issue in this case was it is a bungalow? the most efficient practical building from a heat loss point of view is a cube. A bungalow will have a lot more roof and floor to lose heat than the same square metres of house over 2 floors. When I instructed our assessor to do the as built EPC my instructions to him were if it does not achieve an A, do not lodge the EPC, instead discuss with me what improvements I need to make first to get an A. It mase an A94 without needing improvement.