ProDave

It's a sort of automatic bypass. I assume this is on a heat pump which are usually very picky about a minimum flow rate so it has unhindered flow from the heat pump, and when the manifold pump wants some heat, the pump will suck it out of the flow pipe.

Yes my motorised valve is on the return. Both of them are. I can't remember the reasoning but it works.

Pull the burner sensor out, usually optical, check for soot on the end obscuring it thinking the burner has stopped burning.

It should show the blended water temperature. It won't go down instantly, it will need the heat to be lost to the UFH loops to cool it down so it will take a while for a change to the dial to show on the gauge.

You have the same, or very similar manifold to me, and the flow and return are correct Here is mine: the blending valve should adjust the flow temperature, i.e. the temperature shown on the gauge above the pump. Turn your mixing valve all the way it will go clockwise until it comes against a stop. If that does not reduce the temperature then the blending valve is faulty.

Has it EVER worked properly e.g. when first installed? Can you post a picture zoomed out a bit and tell us which pipe is the flow from the boiler and which is return? If you don't know, turn on the heating from cold and the first pipe to get hot is the flow.

Interesting. I would have thought the BUS grant would come with lots of small print, make sure "house being demolished within X years" does not require repayment of the grant. More likely just to say about not to decommission the system within x years. Seriously if my house was going to be CPO's within a few years and the boiler had backed up, I would get by on immersion heater and plug in electric heaters until then, and not spend a penny on the house.

So what happened to "And should it actually pack in, sensible boiler man tells me that second-hand condensing boilers can be had for £200 or so" And what is your plan with the property? Earlier talk of demolishing it, now it has an EPC A, why would you demolish that? Confused.

If you can get the material covering off, I would splice a new section of wood in the damaged location. At least it won't have to be matching wood if you can get the material back on again to cover it.

I did this when building the airing cupboard in my small bedroom. It was infinitely easier to carpet the whole room before the cupboard went in, rather than try and cut it round both sides of the wall as the same carpet continues inside the cupboard. BUT I then when marking out where the stud wall was going, cut that strip out of the carpet so the stud wall sits on the floor not the carpet. I guess they were too lazy to do that step.

So the flashing lights might be normal, this is not a system I am familliar with, and I don;t think the actuators could be opening and closing that quick. The water flow is pulsing on and off very rapidly, it has to be the pump as I can't see anything else that would turn on and off as quick. Somewhere on the pump on that black plastic box will be some buttons and lights. Try pressing the button to select a different pump mode, and try posting some pictures or video of what the lights on the pump are doing.

More importantly the OSB is there to give the wall racking strength, i.e. it can't fall over sideways like a pack of cards. A very important feature of a supporting wall.

A well known user here @Jenki built his own version of a rigid polytunnel, have a look at his blog.

You have an electrical problem. Are the lights on top of the actuators really flashing? or is that an ailiasing problem with the camera? If they are really flashing, they should not be, and the pulsing of the flow meters looks like a pump is rapidly turning on and off. Post some close up still shots of all the electrical control boxes, pumps and motorised valves etc so we can see what you have. Has it only just started doing this.

The soil at our site is so soft the trench sides would have caved in with that. To do similar on our site I had to put down some old scaffold boards to spread the load futher.

Crushed so they interlock together and are stable, as opposed to round gravel that is more prone to settling.

I used the 90 degree input on all of mine. BC were happy, and it meant no bends in line just straight runs.

The bungalow 0.5m from boundary might allow scope to stand scaffold legs there with permission of course. But do you really want a house that wide on that plot? I would consider a narrower and deeper house preserving decent access to the back garden on at least one side. Having the only parking in front of the house is a red line for me, no possibility of garage or car port.

What is either side? If no immediate building, is is possible to ask one or both of the neighbours for permission to stand one row of the legs of the scaffold in their gardens?

Why is this such a big issue? I wired an entire 2 storey timber frame house with this "problem" The foundations were built assuming a 100mm TF so 100mm block for the inner leaf, but then they decided to build the frame in 140mm. So the sole plate for the frame overhung the block by 40mm on the inside. BC never raised any issues with this and the house is still standing 15 years later.

What is your plan? You say "decking" do you mean timber decking level with the paving? If so you don't need all that MOT1. Compacted MOT1 drains very poorly, you would have been far better infilling that with crushed gravel that would allow natural drainage. At the very least try digging out a bit of the MOT1 back down to soil and see if that drains.

I suggest you delete that file, re name it so it does not reveal your address and re post it.

I read the OP wanted to remove the back box completely and end up with a blank wall. Have I got the wrong end of the stick?

If that is a plasterboard wall, the back box will be mounted on a noggin. I would remove the back box, screw an appropriate thickness packer onto the noggin such that when you then screw a plasterboard patch into the hole it is about flush. Much easier to then fill the gaps.

Are you discharging into a loch? I didn't think SEPA allowed that?