ProDave

Crushed so they interlock together and are stable, as opposed to round gravel that is more prone to settling.

I used the 90 degree input on all of mine. BC were happy, and it meant no bends in line just straight runs.

The bungalow 0.5m from boundary might allow scope to stand scaffold legs there with permission of course. But do you really want a house that wide on that plot? I would consider a narrower and deeper house preserving decent access to the back garden on at least one side. Having the only parking in front of the house is a red line for me, no possibility of garage or car port.

What is either side? If no immediate building, is is possible to ask one or both of the neighbours for permission to stand one row of the legs of the scaffold in their gardens?

Why is this such a big issue? I wired an entire 2 storey timber frame house with this "problem" The foundations were built assuming a 100mm TF so 100mm block for the inner leaf, but then they decided to build the frame in 140mm. So the sole plate for the frame overhung the block by 40mm on the inside. BC never raised any issues with this and the house is still standing 15 years later.

What is your plan? You say "decking" do you mean timber decking level with the paving? If so you don't need all that MOT1. Compacted MOT1 drains very poorly, you would have been far better infilling that with crushed gravel that would allow natural drainage. At the very least try digging out a bit of the MOT1 back down to soil and see if that drains.

I suggest you delete that file, re name it so it does not reveal your address and re post it.

I read the OP wanted to remove the back box completely and end up with a blank wall. Have I got the wrong end of the stick?

If that is a plasterboard wall, the back box will be mounted on a noggin. I would remove the back box, screw an appropriate thickness packer onto the noggin such that when you then screw a plasterboard patch into the hole it is about flush. Much easier to then fill the gaps.

Are you discharging into a loch? I didn't think SEPA allowed that?

Perhaps one of the other members with a recirculating hot water system can comment. I can see no reason it should stop delivering hot water if the pump is not running, it will of course take longer for the water to reach the tap.

WRONG cable. At the UH8 it is a white 3 core cable connected to the Heat Enable terminals. You are looking at a black 3 core cable there. you need to find out where that WHITE 3 core cable ends up.

Which circulation pump? Do you mean hot water circulation, a system used where you have long pipe runs to the taps to give quick delivery of hot water. If that is what is running 24/7 then rewire it ideally triggered by motion sensors in the bathrooms etc so it only comes on when there is actually someone there that might want hot water. The rest of the time it is just sucking heat out of your hot water tank.

Still not understanding fully. Where it says "exits wall low then through floor" i take it that is 110 between joists under the bath almost to the end, turns right, through 2 joists to WC? If I have got that bit wrong no point continuing until I understand it.

How often? Always at the same time? start logging exactly to the second when it occurs and see if there is a patern. It sounds to me like an electrical contactor (big relay) closing and opening.

I concreted my conder in, you gradually pour the concrete at the same time gradually filling it with water so the water is about as high inside the tank as the concrete is outside it. I was wrongly advised by the installer in our previous house who just back filled the septic tank with gravel. That house now has a tank that you can only pump out in the middle of a summer dry spell, and then refill with water PDQ. To pump it out in winter would be asking for it to float out of the ground.

the DNO use a combine Earth an Neutral core, the outer core of a concentric cable. After the supply head the earth and neutral remain separate so we can't use 2 core concentric cable from the supply box to the house.

3 core, Live Neutral and Earth. You also clamp the armour of the SWA in the correct type of gland as an additional earth.

Once you have tried an SDS drill you will NEVER want to use anything else for masonry.

I would not put a 100A fuse in your switch fuse as you have no discrimination from the DNO's 100A fuse. I have mine fused at 80A and have never had any problem with lack of power. If you re run the calcs at 80A you might get better cable size options. You mention 5 core so you are talking 3 phase neutral and earth, so no way will you ever require anything like 100A per phase if you have a 3 phase supply.

But they would only be 2.4M long so more joints compared to buying MDF skirting.

The point about the hiab is this is standard with most builders merchants trucks, they are used to unloading pallets of bricks, roof tiles, plasterboard etc. but before choosing to order from a BM one of the suppliers I was talking to would send it on a flat bed and would require something to lift it off on site. It would be well outside the reach of my small digger to lift it off a truck. I once tried to get a BM to lift a lintel off their truck straight onto the wall where it was going. They flatly refused. I used my digger to lower it into the hole and it took 3 goes to get it the right depth and level. This unloading thing when I was ordering windows, and negotiating on price, I found their standard delivery truck would require a crane or telehandler to unload. I did manage to negotiate delivery on a truck with a hiab at no extra cost. I really don't know why this is not standard in the building industry. Though I guess delivering to a large developers site there will always be some lifting gear available.

Check the thickness but it might be a standard product from Howdens https://www.howdens.com/joinery/architrave/howdens-42m-square-white-mdf-architrave-obj-sku-family-mod0821

So how are the French installing so many heat pumps and us so few? Are their houses generally better than most of the UK rubbish and better suited? Are there more skilled people there to fit them? Better grants? or what?

This is the one I used, I note the company has changed their name, no longer Conder. You would need a larger version that one is up to 6 persons. https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/rewatec-asp-sewage-treatment-plant.html In a lot of cases which one you choose comes down to availability where you are and transport costs. I ordered mine from Travis Perkins as they gave the best price including delivery by their own hiab truck.