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warby

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Everything posted by warby

  1. Nick - you say "Whatever the mvhr extracts has to be replaced by incoming fresh air" - It will create a vacuum but we are only talking about a short time? Surely you do not want to be feeding the flames with fresh air and the smoke will kill unless it removed. If someone is unconscious/deaf; smoke alarms do not help. Totally agree with your other comments about early warnings but the MVHR will still operate and create a worse fire unless a control is established.
  2. I believe the biggest problem during a fire is smoke not flames. I guessed that removing smoke with the MVHR might help, hence why I thought putting extract on boost was required but not to feed air to make the fire worse. Is this wrong? Is this covered by building regulations?
  3. In the event of a fire, there is a need to extract smoke on BOOST and stop supplying fresh air - how can this be done when a smoke alarm goes off? Can there be a form of Spring closing flap or fire damper on the inlet, triggered by the fire alarm?
  4. Couple of things to consider: a. Could use the DHW system to heat your towel rails, rather than electric. b. Air to air heat pumps, i.e. most air conditioning units, can be reversed to produce either hot or cold air. c. You can put heating/cooling units on the MVHR inlet duct to heat and/or cool the incoming air, I think @joe90 recommended these on the other place: http://www.veab.com/en/duct-water-heat-cool/produkter/kanal-varme-kyla-vatten http://www.dealec.com/acatalog/hydronic-duct-heaters.html
  5. Is this a better solution to achieving Air Tightness, i.e. establishing air tightness on the external face of the timberframe? I have no affiliation to this company. This is an extract from their website: This product is Wraptite-SA, the only self-adhering vapour permeable air barrier certified by the BBA, was installed as part of the OSB panel construction of the home. The use of Wraptite-SA in the construction makes a significant contribution to a building’s thermal performance by preventing lateral air movement. It also provides high vapour permeability in a continuously sealed, self-adhered, airtight membrane. Unlike internal air barriers, which can be complex and costly to install due to the need to accommodate building services such as electrical, lighting, heating and drainage systems, Wraptite-SA was applied externally, quickly and easily to the OSB boards in continuous pieces
  6. Hate repeating myself but: This blog: http://theselfbuilddiary.blogspot.co.uk/ may help The self builder tented his build and then calculated the days it saved versus the cost, The blog itself is worth a read
  7. +1 on (temp) Coiln's advise. I was told by an expert there are two rules after turf has been laid. Rule 1 - water, water, water Rule 2 - remember rule 1. Google says: Grass seed is best sown from late summer to mid-autumn; there is less competition from weeds, and the soil is warm, and damp from rain. Perfect for seeds to germinate. If you miss the opportunity to sow in autumn, try in mid-spring, but only if you can give the new grass plenty of water.
  8. Once you are over 55 and have a private pension it makes sense to withdraw as much as possible without changing your current tax band and before new governments realize how advantageous the new pension rules are and they change the pension rules again or increase the rates of tax as Osborne threatened. Both my wife and I do this each year and this was a major contribution to allow us to clear our mortgage but could equally have been used for funding a self build. If your are more in need then you could withdraw more and pay tax at a increased tax rate, i.e.from zero to 20% or from 20% to 40/45 %
  9. A further ref back to ebuild: Jeremy: http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/17948-rodents-in-the-ducting/page__pid__147840#entry147840 Either buy (not sure where from) or make your self a pig and blow it through each duct with compressed air. I'd be inclined to use a dry pig first, then may run through with a pig that's soaked in disinfectant. You want a pretty light weight pig, with a bit of light strong cord tied to it so you can retrieve it. What you're after is something like a big, light, fluffy pipe cleaner, maybe a woollen bobble would be a good thing to use. There's a description of pipeline pigging here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pigging but it refers mainly to oil pipelines, or here: http://www.cleaningw...clean/pig.html. You use exactly the same principle to clean out ducts, but you just use a very much lighter pig. If you can't blow the pig down the duct with the compressor you may have available (doesn't take a load of pressure but you do need a fair bit of volume flow) then try blowing a very light thread (maybe a length of wool) down the duct on it's own, perhaps with a vacuum cleaner set to blow, then tie this to a stronger bit of cord, fix a pig to it and pull it through, like cleaning a gun barrel. I reckon that making some woollen bobbles a bit bigger than the internal diameter of the duct would make good pigs for this job. In case you've forgotten your Blue Peter skills, here's how to make bobbles: http://www.ageuk.org...ow_to_Guide.pdf I've done this loads of times to get mouse and rat muck out of cable ducts, even just using bunches of rags or J cloths tied to a cord and it'll do the job a treat. The hardest part is getting the pig down the duct the first time, or getting a bit of cord through, once that's done it's as easy as cleaning a gun barrel. and he also said; The key to getting pigging to work is to get an initial line through each duct. If you use a length a length of light wool, with a small (maybe 30 or 40mm diameter) light fluffy ball tied on the end, then you have a really good chance of blowing this through with an ordinary vacuum cleaner on blow. Might be an idea to get light lines in every duct to start with, then tie on stronger cords to pull the pigs through. As above, I'd pull dry pigs through first, to remove the solid, dry, stuff (rather than risk smearing stuff along the duct walls). Once that's done, some pigs soaked in disinfectant should do a good job of killing bugs. The main concern is really leptospirosis, and fortunately, although carried in rodent urine, it doesn't survive dry conditions and is easily killed with dilute disinfectants. I'd be inclined to do the disinfection with IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) as it won't damage or attack the ducting, is a broad spectrum sanitising agent, is cheap and dries out very quickly. Just be careful that the IPA doesn't wash the dye out of the woolly ball pigs (it shouldn't, as it doesn't usually affect either synthetic or natural fabric dyes). It saves re-inventeing the wheel
  10. In the ebuild days I asked the question: How do you clean/Sanitise the inside of the ducting over time? Jeremy kindly offered: If you get dust build up, then the standard way is to remove the terminal connections either end and push a flexible brush through )with a vacuum cleaner a one end) or to blow a fluffy "ball" through under pressure (again with a vacuum on the receive end). You can impregnate the brush or fluffy ball to kill any bugs. This is the link. http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/16439-mvhr-duct-size-alteration/page__pid__126550#entry126550
  11. This blog: http://theselfbuilddiary.blogspot.co.uk/ may help The self builder tented his build and then calculated the days it saved versus the cost, The blog itself is worth a read
  12. Does this help: http://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/products/ring-seal-soil-grey-86/92-5-double-branch-grey-soil-609.aspx
  13. Flexible adhesive below the tiles ought to seal the wall/floor critical junction. If he hasn't grouted you could add sealant between the tiles and the external wall.
  14. Because of BREXIT, you are now allowed to hang, draw and quarter the Tiler. Think of all those wonderful old practices we can bring back. Can anyone think of something suitable for Plumbers?
  15. I do hope a certain Welsh wizard of a plumber answers you before the Match between Wales and England start at 2:00pm. I can remember from the old forum that he is a rare commodity in Wales, he has little interest in Sport but he will be insufferable if they win. But if England win I was always told not to mock the afflicted. So 2-1, 2-1, 2-1, 2-1, 2-1, 2-1, 2-1, 2-1, 2-1, 2-1, 2-1, 2-1
  16. These two references may help: http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/15353-ventilation-of-warm-roof/ http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/17493-warm-tiled-roof-eaves-vents-or-not/page__st__20
  17. I believe the problem, that crept over from ebuild, is the tone of the language used. For example, using the term "Snake oil" humiliates a person that might have been duped, There were too many opening contributions from Newbies" asking for them "to be treated gently", this indicates the fear people have to ask questions in the first place and they have drawn that conclusion from listening to the manner in which questions are answered. I have felt humiliated by responses in the past and I have thicker skin than most. I hope this warning from NSS is heeded on this new forum. Please no more personalisation against professions or products. It is not what is said it is the way it is said. Jeremy please do not assume that people are making personal attacks against you. You have turned the comments from NSS as personal against you and last night you made it sound like I was making personal comment against you and nothing could be further from the truth, but you expressed it in a tone of conflict; simply not needed. I thoroughly enjoy learning from this forum and share most of the points of view expressed but detest unnecessary conflict and criticism. I experience too much of that in my personal life and use the forum to escape from conflict.
  18. There is a significant cashflow difference to consider between these two options. In a self build, a warranty has to be paid before site works start and cashflow is often difficult at the end of a project, i.e. you are running out of money. The indemnity option means you only pay the solicitor from the sales proceeds at the point of sale, when money will not be as scarce, hopefully.
  19. If a bath full of water weighs 8 stone that is the same weight as my wife. On this basis are you suggesting she should sit in the bath whilst the silicone cures. Silicone cures in 48 hours. If she has to do this for each toilet, bath and shower base for 48 hours for each appliance, that would seem ideal from my perspective. Could you please let me have your full name and address for the divorced papers.
  20. Last year in Thailand I reversed the car then started to go forward when a large snake came out of the radiator grill onto the bonnet and up to the windscreen I hit the brakes and it slithered off. I was told off my other half for disturbing her texting. You can never win she was completely oblivious to what happened.
  21. Put in landrains wrapped in geotextile and drain to stream
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