MikeGrahamT21

The wall which has 50mm PIR in the 70mm cavity is an issue, cavities need to be fully filled before applying EWI, otherwise its a bit pointless, you just end up with a thermal bypass and the chimney effect within the cavity, so get this filled up before you do this area. With regards the pebbledash, as long as its sound, not loose etc, this will be fine, you will be bonding your insulation boards with both adhesive and mechnical methods, you may just use a little more adhesive than a flat wall would otherwise use, so make sure you account for this when ordering. If its loose in places but not all over, remove the loose and build it up with levelling render before continuing, and if its all loose, then its all off before starting EWI. With regards material choice, Mineral wool is less thermally efficient, but you would also gain acoustic benefits from using it, whereas EPS is the opposite, better with thermal, but less so with acoustic.

If its real cold, get a good fire going near your pile/bags of sand to get a small amount of heat in it, should help no end in -6C, but ideally, wait til next week when its a bit milder, never ideal i know!

OpenTherm is just one of many Digital Connectivity methods, this is from the Tado installer manual: All of the digital methods allow two way comms, and the setting of things like flow temperature on the fly from the controller, Tado for example now has flow temperature optimisation which changes on an hourly basis depending on outdoor temperature. It also has the ability to request a specific amount of heat, as opposed to analog which is a simple on or off, and the boiler would modulate down based upon the temperature of the water, this in theory stops huge overshoots of temperature from happening, and therefore wasted energy. An UFH system loop would always require a mixer, due to the low temperature requirements, I suspect this could be omitted if it was the only heat source, with no wall hung rads. Does it save on Gas, it should do in theory, but I have no data to back that claim up, as I've always ran this particular boiler in Opentherm mode, so have no comparison. And boiler cycles, i've never really taken note of how many times it fires per hour so couldn't say for sure

What type of felt is it? Plastic coated or breathable? inevitably even the best ventilated loft spaces will get some condensation unless the property has a vapour control layer, also highly unlikely

I've yet to change my carbon filter in the blauberg, its been in there about 3 years now, with no noticeable smell ingress, when there is active smoke smell outside. My cleanbox sits pre-MVHR, since i wanted to take advantage of the H13 HEPA before it got to the MVHR, and is in a cold loft space. There is a G4 type filter on the intake in the MVHR which i put in there, firstly to fill the space where it goes, and secondly to ensure the cleanbox did as it should, filter has remained clean and looks and smells as it did brand new out the box, so not convinced there is any carbon dust, nor should there be with the pelletised system.

Yes thats the one. The openings are hexagonal on mine, presumably to increase surface area

I’ve been on induction for years, used to have gas, and this Christmas went to family for dinner and ended up cooking with their gas hob, forgot the nice heat wash you get from the gas combustion plus steam, so glad I’ve got induction at home!

It’s on the intake side, before it reaches the ventilation unit. Keeps all the ductwork nice and clean too as there’s so much crud comes in from outside

I got it afterwards as although I was pretty sure smoke smell would come in I wanted to be sure before investing in the box. 125 version is what I went with, only a small property with fairly low throughput. Haven’t noticed any difference between F7 and H13 smell wise, just went with it as there was negligible cost difference.

Surely it’s just going to be a manufacturer recall, guy will come out with part and not care whether it’s faulting or not, just replace it…maybe play dumb if not and say that’s what you were led to believe

Might be worth reminding them that this is part of building regs for an MVHR, from memory

As you'd expect for gas, they are quite sensitive, i've seen it happen before where it locks out and it doesn't mean anything, but of course worth getting it checked. Could be something as daft as a slight drop in local gas pressure.

The foiled rockwool, to prevent condensation on the pipe forming, and foil tape on any joints. Glad the unit is behaving now your connected the drain

Turned it all off and back on again? sorry I work in IT 😂

ahh, smart, not seen one of those ones

Don’t tundishes have holes in them? Not suitable for MVHR drain if it has

Indeed, but the other stuff is definitely them. For now make sure the drain has got a reasonable bend in it to create a good pool of water for the water trap, the more in there the less likely it is to suck air back up.

100% get them back in for all the issues mentioned above, this is firmly their remit to sort

Love getting all the trimmings out, despite not being a huge fan of Christmas

Yeah thats your issue, i'd say its definitely a mixture of both ingress and condensation. Externally, make sure that any pointing is good, no gaps in it, and you could apply a water repellant to the masonry to help further. Inside you are going to need to create an insulation filled cavity, and then an internal wall, with the metal frame. If it were me i'd do the following: Remove the red, keep the green. In between the metal frame kept, and the wall, fill with insulation, PIR will likely be the best choice here, and use some adhesive expanding foam to 'glue' it to the reveal. Then go over with your plasterboard. I would considering using metal frame wider than that too, if possible, or add some timber spacer to it, so your insulation and PB overlap the window. And ensure that the outside is fully sound, and water repellant applied. Make sure to treat any internal mould with either proprietry mould killer, or white vinegar before covering it up too. See what others think of this plan?

Are you sure that’s just condensation? What material is the painted bit to the left of the window made of? And what’s on the outside? Looks a bit like water ingress as well as condensation to my untrained eye

Yeah just looked for Bristol, barely any choice and nothing thermal outside of aircrete. Any on eBay that will deliver to your location?

It’s a full fill system with unventilated cavity so the board and its HIPS facer gives the 125mm, which is what the cavity has to be built as, I remember it was a snug fit as per the installation instructions. They have a really good fitting outer profile which keeps everything tight and sealed. https://unilininsulation.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/01/2913_CTPIR_UK_Final_V2.pdf have a look on huws gray, they always seemed to be cheapest for blocks for me at least, loads of options too

im not sure I agree with you on that completely, yes the cut edges where the cells are open will leak the blowing agent, but the rest of the board should stay as manufactured unless punctured in some way. I’ve made fresh cuts in PIR which is more than 10 years old and can still smell the gas escaping from the fresh cut

Definitely swap out the aircrete for dense blocks, look out for the ones labelled as thermal blocks but as an aggregate block. I used xtratherm (now unilin) CT-PIR at 125mm in my latest side extension, which is an interlocking board, and having done previous extensions with aircrete inner and full fill 0.032 wool, I can say that the latest build is by far the best in terms of insulation and energy use. if I remember right the Kingspan full full boards need their joints taping on the cold side. normal wall ties are absolutely fine, and another +1 for wet plaster