MikeGrahamT21

Without other photos i'm not sure what to suggest as a next step. If the chimney needed pointing you would hope the roofer would have suggested it? Oddly enough I have a very similar leak down the side of the chimney stack at the moment, just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit before I venture up onto the roof to have a look, lead flashing is the cause of my leak. How about the chimney pots, are they open at the top or do they have a cover on them? There is also the chimney cap cement to think about too. Does the damp ever clear up? Even a little when its not rained for a while?

A good selection here: https://www.sterlingbuild.co.uk/category/sun-tunnels

?‍♂️why did i not think of that ?

Thanks for the heads up. Yes, plan on using some kind of conduit for the few cables which will come up to the TV, 32mm flexi sounds ideal. How do you deal with airtight membrane onto the MF? or should I make airtight before the MF system goes on, thats probably easier to achieve.

I think for the MF System i'll need the following: 50FEC50 - Floor and Ceiling 48S50 - C Stud for the verticals 99FC50 - Fixing Channel, could be used instead of plywood for mounting TV on? Does anyone know what centres these run at? 400 or 600?

Will have a look into the MF system and see what components i may require. Had a quick search for the MLV, seems fairly expensive, but perhaps worth it if it adds a lot. Would this be stuck to the existing surface, and then topped with acoustic rockwool?

Starting to make plans to gut the living room this year, and one thing which is on the must list is to add acoustic insulation to the party wall which leads onto next door. Luckily at the moment my neighbour is pretty much stone deaf, but if its quiet in my room, i can almost clearly hear his TV and telephone conversations, so keen to do something in case the next resident have better hearing. I have a home cinema, which I have measured on my iphone using the A filter, and seem to peak at around 61dB at a volume which I would normally listen at, watching something i would normally watch. Have 7 small speakers and 2 100W subwoofers which are set at 1/4 volume (previously had just the one sub which was at 1/2 volume). Currently wall situation is 100mm block either side, with a 70ish mm cavity, which has been retrofit filled with party wall insulation pumped in (Knauf product). On my side there is then solid plaster on one alcove, plasterboard mounted on timber battens on the other alcove (false wall for cabling to go down), and then dot and dab plasterboard on the chimney breast, which is a solid square that runs between the 2 properties with no cavity. We each have a fireplace which is set into each others living rooms seperated possibly by just a single brick, mine is currently blocked up. The plan is... Open up the fireplace on my side, board out with 15mm acoustic PB, this will house my AV receiver and other boxes Drill a matrix pattern into the dot and dab on the chimney breast and fill with FM330 Remove the false wall PB, timber, and stick the PB direct to the wall with drywall adhesive (full bed) Install 2x2 timber battens to the entire party wall, 600mm ctrs, and fill with Rockwool Acoustic slabs Airtight membrane taped to ceiling, and floor membrane 15mm Acoustic PB Skim Hoping this will fix any potential future issues. Thinking to keep the existing plaster/PB in place firstly to save having to throw it away, but also to keep it as additional acoustic mass, good idea? Losing 70mm of space isn't an issue, and filling all the existing empty cavities should help to reduce sound bouncing around and potentially amplifying before travelling to next door. Anything anyone would do differently? I had thought about using the metal framing system with the runner tracks screwed to the ceiling and floor so that there is no contact to the wall, and if you think this will be a better option i'll look into it, but it will need to hold a TV (which at the moment is an old LCD, approx 25kg). Thanks for any additional ideas.

Thats probably a bit top heavy but depends on product. Take a look here: https://www.jewson.co.uk/medias/00505-99-Price-increase-Poster-A5.pdf?context=bWFzdGVyfHJvb3R8NDIyMzV8YXBwbGljYXRpb24vcGRmfGhhMC9oOGMvODk0MDEzNzMxNjM4Mi8wMDUwNS05OSBQcmljZSBpbmNyZWFzZSBQb3N0ZXIgQTUucGRmfGIwOWVkM2ZhMWQ3NmMwNDMwYTZjMzJjNjcwMDhiZTIxOTY0OTliN2E1NDFjNDRhNTVjNzdjYjU0N2NhMmIzNzA https://www.jewson.co.uk/supplier-updates

If you have somewhere secure to store them, you will be better off buying the materials now for sure, but the price rises are a yearly occurence, not a new thing, and its never been a huge rise. How much you will save, only time will tell. If storage is an issue, and they risk being weather damaged, stolen or something, then its probably not worth the risk IMO

I can't see manufacturers of MVHR units being bothered about vent locations to be honest, happy to be proved wrong though. Certainly nothing relating to vent location in my manuals, not even a suggestion of anything to do with the ducting at all.

House prices up 8.5% on average in the last year, so your valuation is probably near on 20% lower than it was

Cross ventilation is just good design to move the most amount of air in each room, its nothing to do with the MVHR unit itself, that just needs to be sized correctly for the volume of air in the house. Take a look here: https://www.eco-home-essentials.co.uk/whole-house-ventilation.html

You looking at the Hybris product? I've never come across anything like it before, seems to rely on low-e air gap on both sides to perform its best, which could be difficult to achieve.

it certainly sounds it. I suppose you could always go back to brick, but that is a huge messy job!

I don't know much about distemper, that article i linked sounds like its certainly best removing it before doing anything else otherwise you'll be fighting it forever.

Recommendation is to remove the distemper coating: https://propertyworkshop.com/paints/distemper-paint/

the cove adhesive is a bit poor until it sets. As long as it doesn't move when its had time to dry i'm sure it'll be OK, just caulk the crack before decorating. I find using drywall adhesive is much better than these cove adhesives

What did you stick it up with?

New build house, leave well alone and log with the builder, if you start messing they will use it as their get out, this needs properly sorting and it will likely be a big job. Luckily the weather is going to warm up a lot from tomorrow so shouldn’t be as unbearable while you wait. also consider enlisting a snagging firm (snag sure is one which comes to mind) to do a full survey of your building. They can help getting the house builders to resolve issues. If you absolutely can’t cope any longer, get some really thick curtains and try and hang them around that window

I remember using a clamp sensor on mine, and it didn't know what was usage and what was export from the Solar PV! Counted both directions

I've no doubt you will already have this (or I hope you do anyway): https://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/202011/20201130092421734/DB68-08408A-03_IM_EHS_R-32_MONO_OUTDOOR_EU_EN_200822.pdf Installation manual for your unit. I noticed on page 41, there is talk of an energy saving mode, which is off by default?

The specs on that unit state that in heat mode it can only use a maximum of 2.65kW, so something else is using energy here to get to the 3+kW figure... Is there anything else connected to the fuse you switched off?

Blimey, that makes it even more of a shocker!

130w just for it sitting doing nothing seems an awful lot?! Is your solar PV connected up yet?

This probably isn't your unit, though might be. Looking at the figures the COP drops off a cliff at sub zero temperatures, how much depends on your flow temperature: RC090 RC160 Power Supply Phase Single Single Volts 220 - 240 220 - 240 Hertz 50 50 Nominal Condition Air 7°C Flow 30/35°C Heating Output (kW) 9 16 Electrical Input (kW) 2.09 3.81 COP 4.3 4.2 Performance Air 7°C Flow 40/45°C Heating Output (kW) 8.4 15.1 Electrical Input (kW) 2.51 4.58 COP 3.35 3.3 Performance Air -7°C Flow 30/35°C Heating Output (kW) 7.54 12.28 Electrical Input (kW) 3.35 5.64 COP 2.25 2.18 Performance Air -7°C Flow 40/45°C Heating Output (kW) 7.59 12.01 Electrical Input (kW) 3.86 6.08 COP 1.97 1.98 Water Slide Heat Exchanger Brazed Plate Heat Exchanger Required Water Press (bar) 2.8 2.8 Nominal Water Flow Rate (l/min) 20 30 Minimum Water Volume (l) 20 20 Pressure Drop at Heat Ex (kPa) 10 15 Pipe Connection 1" Male 1" Male