MikeGrahamT21

I would say they aren’t long enough, the top layer 40mm+pb +plaster will be near on 55mm, your old plaster will be likely 20mm overall if it’s traditional wet plaster, maybe more depending how many layers is on, and then you need min 40mm in the brick. get yourself some long coach bolts, smaller plug on the end (length wise) and first hammer it in til it goes no further, followed by tighten up

North facing so it will never be baked by the sun. I suspect those bricks will be almost non porous too given their age. I wonder if the problem is actually further up, maybe on the chimney stack, and the visual representation is only being seen at ground level, there must be a large amount of water getting in somewhere. Also check the roof integrity near the verge. if it’s built on slate rising damp shouldn’t be adding too much to the problem. lime mortar will make a big difference once the cement pointing is out, but I feel there is an issue somewhere else also

It has to be the weakest area for the water to get out I’d say. Probably where the coldest temperatures are too, ground level is always a bit warmer. What’s on the inside roughly where the efflorescence is happening? And what’s below it where it isn’t happening? which direction does the gable end face?

Well spotted! I’d not seen the tiny slither on view. It’s likely full of crap behind it too, may need removing cleaning and a new plastic one putting back

I’m no expert but thinking this may be due to the pointing being done with cement, and perhaps a more suitable material would be lime mortar which can deal with the moisture much better. the solid surface at the bottom of the wall is probably not ideal either, be ideal to have a foot from the wall of gravel, and dig down as far as you can which should aid drainage

Definitely use the PIR be a shame to sell it and lose money, it’s perfect for the job. Ensure the eaves are well ventilated as they will experience a big temperature drop in winter once the habitable space is insulated

Very snazzy. Any scope for digging it out a little to get the required concrete depth? You'll probably want to leave a gap on the edge opposite the door/window and put a slight slope on whatever you put down to channel water away from the building

I’ve seen server rooms with less cables than that! 😂

It gets so complicated all this, and I’m a Systems and network engineer 😂 my solis ac connected inverter for the battery doesn’t have the options I need really, and trying to get them to understand on support is almost impossible. I’ve got time of use so can set timed import and export up no problems, have 3 slots for each, but then you have to specify your charge in amps, so you have to guess in DC what the battery will get if you want specific power. Tonight I don’t have enough charge for my hourly discharge so I’ve had to disable it, but asked support if they can implement say a SOC setting by which force discharge won’t go below, but once it hits that only the force stops and normal discharge resumes, but so far they don’t get what I’m on about 🤦‍♂️

I've just got on to flux, and yeah was disappointed by the coming drop in export, but hopefully it'll still work out, if not i'll switch back. If you want 15p export, go with Octopus Outgoing Fixed, assuming its a solar install?

If you swap out the aerated blocks for dense blocks on both leaves, then you won't have any risk of condensation at all. Or the alternative method, with 215 blocks:

To save worrying about it down the line, go with another set of nails of the correct variety then you can forget about it

Another method, you could go 215mm block and 150/160mm EPS on the outside. you risk interstitial condensation with that build up, and would need some kind of check on the inside to avoid, I think you must have specified some wrong values on u-wert for it to not show.

Minimum clearance underneath the timber is 150mm, that said parts of mine are as small as 110mm in places, but having cleared all of the rubbish out from under the floor, and ensured the gaps in the sleeper walls are free of obstruction it gets good airflow. one tip I learnt along the way, if you aren’t using a membrane to sit the insulation in, friction fitting PIR can be problematic with suspended timber due to movement, and I’ve had it drop through, so make sure you have something to hold it in place, I used metal clips every 300mm both sides staggered 150mm which has done the trick and foam the gaps up as any air movement negates your insulation. I totally get not being able to use enough insulation for underfloor heating, my maximum is 100mm. Couple of things you can consider… if you are doing the whole ground floor, you could consider adding another timber on top of the existing to increase height, either 50 or 100mm glued and screwed to existing, or (and) use an insulating product on top of your subfloor, so you can get boards which have grooves in for wet underfloor heating, or something like a marmox board to reduce the thermal bridge between subfloor and underfloor heating, depending on the type of UFH you are going for. internal wall insulation, as long as your walls are straight, consider full boards of insulation direct to the wall, with battens on top of them to hold it in place, or use insulated plasterboard, which if memory serves me you can use adhesive to bond to walls, but check the installation guide to confirm that

https://www.automationdatabase.com/products/siemens-5sv3314-3?variant=14325568967&currency=GBP??

MLCP any day, i used compression MLCP fittings, not had one single leak or weep, and no expensive tools needed

Adjust the bolts on the window openers so that they close poorly and don't make a proper seal, shouldn't be obvious and no works needed really, just an allen key

no looks correct to me as far as the official figures suggest

Found this on a blog… https://myhomefarm.co.uk/our-bivalent-heat-pump-and-hvo-biofuel-are-we-still-green HVO derived from waste cooking oil and fat has a verified carbon emission factor of 0.036kg/kWh, compared to 0.298kg/kWh for kerosene. This is based on the latest edition of the government’s Standard Assessment Procedure for Energy Rating of Dwellings (SAP 10.2).

https://www.bpcventilation.com/self-seal-conn-duct-to-duct?gclid=CjwKCAjw3dCnBhBCEiwAVvLcu4L5nW-j87wCt74jYJ-HdWNCoDhfo0Iwdxiae9q02dEWGUoWjiRwfBoCAVsQAvD_BwE you can get self sealing joints

@ToughButterCup have you ever lived in a property which has MVHR? No one else I know has anything like I do, and their houses are stuffy to me, but you don’t realise until you’ve had MVHR. maybe you open windows/doors more than you would if you had it, I don’t open much up year round, unless I’m out in the garden. And if you’ve ever seen a used MVHR filter, surely you don’t want all that crap over carpets, furniture and in your lungs? for me MVHR chips away at humidity like nothing else I’ve ever experienced, and the house smells fresh all year round, I deal with exterior smells with a carbon filter which works brilliantly. And the unit itself, cost me £400 off eBay brand new, plus another £150 for the upgrade to Hepa filters and carbon, the pipes you already have in place so maybe just keep an eye out? honestly can’t think you’ll ever regret it, just fit and forget for the sake of around 40W of power or less

Make sure you can access any mesh, as it will soon get clogged up on the outside. I doubt any insect death to MVHR would be measurable in the greater environment, most things will likely be midges which don’t live very long anyway

If you can make the space all round for it, it’s a far better solution, even filling all available space, think of it as a waterproof thick coat for your property. any finish can be achieved, render, pebbledash, brick slip, brick or stone effect render, I’ve done brick slips on mine to match the existing brick, so planning permission even where you are shouldn’t be an issue

Surely external wall insulation would be a far better idea? It’ll stop your masonry from getting blasted by the elements

The grey metal part goes on after skimming, and screws into the ceiling, then the white bit screws into the grey bit right at the end.