Deniance

I was told it has it, the weather symbol displays on the thermostat, and it gets it through the internet, and the boiler is on auto which is thermoregulation, the boiler fires and you can see a power bar next to the flame icon, then when it nears temperature it drips down to 1 bar, but it does turn off, when I set temp to 20 it will heat and modulate but when it’s at 20 the stat definitely turns the boiler off, I bought an outdoor sensor for it but the service guy said I don’t need it as it’s all done through the internet with the thermostat

Forgot to update this, I drilled little holes in each corner and it seems to have cured the problem

This is where I’m going to get confused now 😂 everything I’ve read and seen is saying I need zone valves, the heating gets to temp and turns off so the zone valve closes because the boiler is still on and supplying the floor circuit which hasn’t got to temp and is still calling for heat, so without the zone valve the heating circuit will still have water pumped through it?

I’m not sure what wc and kiss means, I’m not clued up on plumbing terms, just need a bit of an idea what I’m gonna be asking the plumber for, I have a combi so it’s doing hot water straight from combi, radiators and UfH

Also, do I use online UfH companies to design a drawing and supply the materials or will they just oversell stuff to me, with small diameter pipes and stuff that’s not needed? Or should I let the plumber decide on what to use?

So just to get things straight in my head if I make a radiator zone and UfH zone I will have 2 zones with 2 individual thermostats that can call for heat independently i will need 2 zone valves to isolate each circuit, so if both stats call for heat both zone valves open, when rads stop calling for heat the zone valve closes allowing the boiler to continue and feed the still on call UfH stat , and vice versa i will also need to get installed , a close coupled tee at the boiler incase both zone valves were to be closed for some reason the boiler and it’s pump over run would no circuit to pump to and the boiler would shut off and go into fault, the close coupled tees allow enough of a circuit to stop it happening? then the manifold has a blending valve that cools the water to low temp for the heating loops under the floor so if radiators and floor have open zone valves the boiler will produce high heat for radiators and the blending valve will cool it to protect the floor my boiler allows 2 zones and I think it can be set as zone 1 high heat and zone 2 low heat, so if zone 1 rads call for heat it can output high and the blending valve protects the floor , and if zone 2 floor calls for heat and the radiators do not then it can produce low heat and go straight through the blending valve anyways? does that sound about right? I’ll have to contact the plumber who I’m hoping will know all this but you can’t be too careful these days with trades! Just want to get an understanding in my head of what needs to happen that’s half the battle

Ah right , I don’t mind which way I do it, I’d like to get good quality kit and have spares available easily , that’s my only ask really, then I’ve just got to figure out how on earth you 2 zone an ariston , I’ve read the manuals for the boiler and you can set zone one as a high temp rad circuit and there’s a second set of stat terminals labelled floor and you can set that to zone 2 and a low temp, but I don’t think you can have two of the fancy stats connected to the boiler , I might just have to have the fancy stat allowing app control for the radiators and get a normal cheap stat on the floor o activate zone 2, I’ve emailed ariston help but they have not replied 🙁

I have a 700mm deep void under the floor, was thinking of tipping 600mm of the small size foamed glass into it, bringing it up to joist underside, then a plastic grid to tie heat loops too, then add sand and lime to a specific ratio for UfH . The walls will also be insulated with woodfibre, new windows and small insulation in the ceiling, room will also be air sealed as much as possible. Main motivation is to get rid of the nuclear sized radiator on the wall that kind of stops any furniture going anywhere, it’s not a massive room and space is a premium with the controls I’m really just looking to keep the ariston app control by using their products but there’s nowhere to find out, manages to speak to some random ariston parts place and he said it can be done but depends on what UfH I go for and to get back to him when I have more details, but now I’ve seen that method of using an esbe actuator and think that may be a better way , I don’t know

Room is 12m2, boiler is 24kw I think?

Hi everyone, hope your all well🫡 can someone explain UfH controls to me please? I can’t wrap my head around it! I’ve watched loads of videos on valves and relays that switch the boiler etc but I opted for a funny boiler which has made things worse? I currently have an Ariston Clas one, 7 radiators and a Cube thermostat which is ariston’s fancy weather comp app control stat All works great and does all the modulating jazz! anyways, I want to convert one room to UfH downstairs, but I can’t get my head around how it operates via the boiler so in my head I’m thinking I keep my thermostat that turns the radiators on, and then I install an identical stat in the UfH room and that turns the floor on and off , I come home from work and say “ok google turn heating on” both stats call for 20 degree heat and call the boiler , radiators get hot and turn off, under floor is still warming up so stays on a bit longer , all the zone valves do their thing and everything is rosy. but ariston uses a “bus” terminal for their fancy stats so you can’t really connect anything to it switch wise or relay wise, the boiler does have a normal volt free ta1 stat terminal and a ta2 floor stat terminal if I wanted to use normal stats but ideally I’d like to keep the ariston control because the app is pretty good, apparently ariston sell a multizone unit that can connect zone valves via their bus system but they are not much help on the phone so then to make things even more complicated ….. I’ve seen videos of manifolds with blending valve and zone valves that everyone seems to use but I also saw a video where you do away with zone valves and use an ESBE actuator to do the blending this seems to be the best way but I can’t find any info for it how do I find out about any of this land who do I ask? cheers

Thanks, I’ll check for the notch tomorrow!

Hi all, Brookvent air cycle 1.3, was working fine but I tried tweaking the humidity control down to clear the bathroom sooner and longer but I’ve noticed it randomly triggers and won’t go off boost, I thought it was because I’d lowered the humidity dial but I turned it up and it still does it anyways….. when I opened the unit up the core was full of water , there’s a tray in its design that holds 6mm of water in the lowest green part? I’m guessing that’s normal? with the core removed if I empty a pint of water inside the unit it all runs away to the drain holes and Into the drain and doesn’t hold water anywhere so it definitely the core that’s holding the water and it’s got me thinking that’s what’s giving the false humidity readings? And setting the unit into boost? well since yesterday and after emptying it hasn’t done it so I’m guessing it is that? anyways I’m thinking of popping a 6mm hole in the green plastic tray at the base of the core itself? but thought I’d ask you guys first? the unit has a bit of angle to carry water away so it’s not the drains it’s definitely the little green tray at base of core not the best picture, but there’s 6 sides, 4 sides are airflow and top and bottom are a solid side to hold it all together, I’m planning a sneaky 6mm hole in centre of bottom tray just so that little tray can’t fill up? Or are the cores meant to have a little water in them for some reason? god I hope that makes sense! cheers

Doc F for wales 2022 update says it should be 31😱

Little 3 bed terraced diwnstairs 2 rooms and kitchen and bathroom I’d say 60 sq metres? Not massive, 3x5 m rooms x 3x3 bathroom and add a few for hallways etc

213 volume of house, 2 extract rooms 4 supply rooms