MikeGrahamT21

https://www.daikin.co.uk/en_gb/residential/products-and-advice/heat-pump-calculator/residential-solution-navigator-air-to-water-heat-pumps.html?lead=4c1379d4-4f4e-11ef-8c16-85d62a454bf0 Hopefully should be easy enough to get something usable out of it. I also found the proper MCS spreadsheet, thats anything but simple!!

210 is a lot of hot water, especially with an electric shower, any bath? Have you had a quote from Octopus Energy, E.On? Any of the big players just to compare? I'd guess someone else installing UFH would add a fair chunk to the bill.

Some photos will help. what age are the joists roughly? Older wood is far stronger and cracking doesn’t necessarily mean they’re bad. notching for plumbing is never great as it weakens them but it’s just how it used to be done, and in some cases still is.

Definitely don’t remove insulation as others have said. I think external shading is going to be your best option, all depends on what the bungalow looks like as to what would work best. if you’ve plenty of room above windows, you could look at brise soleil to shade the windows in the summer months. Limited space you could look at an external window film. It’s all about limiting the heat in the window panes, which if you have double could reach a good 70C on a hot day for south facing. do you have any roof windows which can open? My trick on my bungalow on a morning is to open bifold door at one end of bungalow and roof windows at other end, creates a lovely wind tunnel. what is the construction build up on the walls and roof in terms of all materials outside to inside?

made sure I measured the water as per packet instructions, and it self levelled, seemed a good consistency. we do set these things on don’t we? 😂 whilst googling about this, seen so many stories of professionals using wrong products too, and that’s only from the customers who noticed, I bet it happens more often than you’d like to think

Definitely not tiling, that’s one of my most hated jobs of all time! Not a tile to be found in this place now 😂 I’ve gotten past the ‘DIYers blind panic’ stage, what’s done is done, though I’ll remain annoyed at myself for a few days I’m sure 😂 was going to do that small area of plastering tomorrow, but after the stress of today I think I’ll have a day off!

No it doesn’t specify, just says unsuitable for underfloor heating or floors which have minimal movement/vibration. I’ll hazard a guess it’s to do with flexibility, this is a C16 strength F4, whereas the flexible stuff was C24 F8. Just wish I’d had known there were different types as I could have bought some latex at the same time to go in it, or a different product which they had but said it was for interior and exterior use, was in a rush and just kept it simple, and now wish I hadn’t 😂 I’m not too bothered about cracking and it’s got no where to go, the LVT which I’ve got going over it has a thin layer of neoprene padding on the back which won’t be bonded in any way to the subfloor. Guess I’ll just have to leave it a few days to dry out, turn the UFH on and see what happens, and if it seems OK run with it, at least the LVT can be taken up at a later date if I need to redo it all as worst case scenario

It suggests adding latex liquid would have made it suitable, but again too late now. what’s worst case scenario? Can’t imagine it’ll chemically damage the UFH as it’s ingredients are the same as the flexible stuff, obviously missing a few components. the bag doesn’t even state unsuitable for UFH on the limitations section, it’s in the application section

What a day it’s been today, had 5 bags of flexible self levelling compound which is thought was going to be enough, turned out I was wrong, had to go pick up another 4 bags mid job, and somehow I managed to buy the only one known to man which is not recommended for underfloor heating!! I didn’t even realise there were ones which weren’t suitable, learn something new every day. Anyhow, before I’d realised since I’d already started the job, it was mixed, laid and going off, was only when I checked to see how long til it set I saw the not recommended for use with underfloor heating!! luckily the majority of the underfloor heating is covered with the suitable stuff, with maybe 1-2m2 covered with this one. Have had a look online and the only thing I can find is that it may craze/crack under use? If that’s the case it doesn’t bother me as long as the heating mat is safe, since I’m using LVT over the top as a floating floor. anyone else made the same mistake? Though since 90% of the products are Ok with it, it’s stupidly hard to do!! 😂 This is where the mat is the grey self leveller is the flexible, the browny coloured one the non flexible

I know which one i'd be chosing!! This is the metal mesh one i was talking about: https://www.wbs-ltd.co.uk/systems-solutions/system-finishes/15mm-brick-slips/ And for supplier for the normal stuff, i've always used these: https://ewistore.co.uk/

if you’re wanting to use real brick slips I.e heavy ones as opposed to the ones I used which are resin, I have seen a system which used EPS insulation, and then a metal mesh which had spacers on for brick slips. XPS isn’t an issue, it’s just more expensive for same thickness, and you have to ensure vapour permeability on the internal side, which your initial build up didn’t have. Consider wood fibre boards to the interior and lime plaster if you wish to keep the XPS outer

Would definitely not recommend XPS boards and then PIR on inside, you’ll be trapping moisture. EWI is generally EPS above DPC and XPS below DPC and on an old building it’s recommended to carry this all the way down to the foundation. have a look at my blog which may well give you some ideas

Some providers do, but its now in as a graph, which shows flow rate based upon pressure: https://www.grohe.co.uk/notepad/v1/exports/product/30489000?locale=en_gb&fallback_image=

I haven’t, but I know they are top end passivhaus certified, saw them in passive house plus magazine. They certainly used to sell in england they do both PVC and Ali clad timber from memory

Have you looked at Munster Joinery? Triple glazing is become far more common these days, but unfortunately manufacturers are using it to their own advantage so they can sell poorly performing frames and still be inside the regulations. Also pay attention to the gap size between the panes, they can be too small and not give any benefit, and also too large which allows convection to occur. but to answer your question, a good double vs a good triple, yes you will undoubtedly notice the difference, I know I certainly do. But the problem comes as above if you compare a good double vs a poor triple, the double would likely be the best option

Anything specific you don't know the answer to? You may find it easier to use the web portal to do this: https://buildingcontrol.planningportal.co.uk/

Swear I’m getting slower at this DIY lark! been a very turbulent month and a bit, about a week after I last posted in this thread my dad passed away, and with funeral and starting to sort the mass of stuff in his house, the days have zipped by at a rate of knots. coinciding with what I always find the most difficult part of these jobs, getting the floor structure down, balancing definitely isn’t a strong point! cut out the last of the woodwormed joists and decided to replace everything under there again even though quite a few were new from around 10 years ago, it was the first room I’d done and wasn’t prepared for what I found so the ones I took out were untreated, now replaced with treated. topped up the floor insulation with another 20mm to go with the existing 70mm, new 22mm chipboard, and sorted both heating and supply pipes along with drainage for the shower. be a few weeks now til I get some time to do the first batch of plastering, but I’m just happy it’s starting to look a bit more like a room rather than a building site. Stumbled across a brilliant airtight primer this time too, Tescon's SPrimer, which is a sprayable primer. Saves killing a paintbrush, and is so easy to apply, but its a little smelly for a few days. I've still got a bit of the paint on primer, but don't think i would have had enough to complete the job, managed to get a can off ebay from someone who had finished their works and was selling excess off.

K5 has a fabric coating to accept render/adhesive on both sides, and is also made from phenolic foam rather than polyisocyanurate, which is marginally better at insulating

yeah the solicitor sent us a copy of the title deed once he’d done the work so I’ve got it straight from the horses mouth as it were. I’ve lived on this street all of my life and dads house is only a few doors down, so I’ve gone with a top end estimate based upon prices of others which have sold recently, even if it were another 50% higher than that it still wouldn’t touch IHT, primarily because he didn’t own the whole thing, and indeed may have only owned 33% given that no split is detailed on the title deeds.

Ahh yeah that makes sense. Will see what land registry's response is and take it from there i guess, and crack on with probate as we need it anyway. Thanks for your replies, and hopefully will help someone else out in future too!

Yeah it was done around 3months following her death, so its around 8 years in total since it was varied. I've just had a look at the title deed which the solicitor sent us, and to be honest there are no proportions listed, we are simply all named under Title Absolute, point 1, with both names and address. If this means that it is equally split then maybe that simplifies the process I think the rent free bit may have been done in a different way... No disposition by a sole proprietor, so no one person can sell, unless authorised by a court it states. So i guess the authorised by a court would be probate?

Indeed ratio was 50:25:25 with an exception that Dad could live there rent free, til the end of his life. All i've done so far is send this form (https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/deceased-joint-proprietor-djp) along with a copy of the Death certificate (which they've since returned) to the land registry, and awaiting next steps, so it sounds like i'll need to do the Assent as a next step. Both me and my brother are executors to the estate. I've ran everything through the IHT calculator on the gov website, and it states nothing is due. No we didn't do any declarations of trust as part of it, a solicitor just did a variation of the will of my mother. Looking at the Assent form, thats getting a bit beyond my knowledge, so we will have to involve a solicitor in that to fill it out for us, but it does suggest that Probate needs to be completed before you can do it, so I'll ensure that gets submitted ASAP The will is a real simple one, basically everything that was Dads, goes to me and brother 50/50 split, but yes you are right, it was 50:25:25. Good to know we can at least get the ball rolling on that front whilst the legals go through in the background, this was the main thing I needed to know to start off with.

Hi, Tried searching the web for an answer to this one and can't find anything relevant, but it must have happened previously. When my Mum died 8 years ago, me and Dad varied her will to put her half of the property in mine and my brothers name, leaving the remaining 50% in my dads name, all three of us are named on the title deeds at Land Registry. Dad died around a month ago, and since then i've sent the land registry form off to have his name removed from the title deeds, leaving just me and my brother as owners. My question is, at this point are we legally allowed to put it on the market for sale, or do we need to wait for probate to come through? Dads 50% has been included in the IHT calculation, for which we are not liable. Hoping someone has come across this before... Cheers Mike

always printed side to where you want the moisture to go, think of how it’s used on a roof

A few bits which i'm not quite sure I'd agree with here... Marmox is in no way strong enough to go on top of the joists and under the chipboard/OSB layer, it would get crushed in the areas of contact, once a lot of weight is put on the floor. You would have to put this layer on top of chipboard/OSB layer and either top with 10mm self leveller compound if you are to use carpet, or by using a wood flooring/engineered wood/LVT/Laminate, and use a thin 2mm EPS under the solid flooring to prevent it touching the rough cement layer on the Marmox. I'm using Marmox under underfloor heating in bathroom, and me just kneeling on it has left a few dents, so it definitely needs something else to spread load. No, do not use Marmox for this purpose, it is only XPS insulation sandwiched between two 1mm reinforced cement layers, it is not designed for point loads such as sitting on joists, and needs to be fully supported. You need to use specific tape which is 'plaster-in', such as https://www.airstop.co.uk/product-page/airstop-flex-fee You will need a primer to put on the block/brick work first, and then tape your membrane down with this style tape. You are then ready to plaster in. Most primers are paint on, however I have just discovered Tescon's SPrimer, which is spray primer, though i've yet to use it so can't comment on how good/bad it is.