gaz_moose

sit your lazer ontop of a spirit level packed up to level on the highest side of the shuttering. measure the height of the beam just infront of the lazer then measure the height of the beam at the other end of the shuttering and deduct your first measurement, that will tell you your fall.

i had this happen from leyland trade waterbased stuff from screwfix once when painting internal doors. id come to the conclusion it was excess water. i found going over them lightly with a damp brush got rid of them. having damp brushes/rollers before you start seems to help.

Contact adhesive is what i used to stick the end trims on my chipboard worktops. id be confident to use it to stick your cupboard door back together if i had too.

sounds like you need a new roof.

no sill and low threshold.

can you slide a piece of paper between the frame and the opener? get a straight edge, like a spirit level or a piece of mdf and see if the frame and openers are straight or if they have bowed.

take the lid off, decant some of the water in it and pour in sealant.

my combi boiler was on a 13 amp 3 pin plug for a while until the actual wiring was ran.

id just felt over it, or build it out of flash band.

just leave them as bare brick.

try to rent a garage off the council to store your current stuff in. or ask on a local facebook group if someone would rent you some space. 100mm 7n blacks would probably be the cheapest. a single garage would probably not need any planning approval but when you have figured out what you want to build its worth sending an email to the local planning department just to confirm.

just stick a wall mounted bathroom fan heater up. then you can enjoy hands free hair drying

i had something like this happen, turns out i had fitted the screen upside down and the top and bottom hinges were the wrong way round.

my blackout curtains are basically just normal curtains with a plastic like material on the side facing the window. id look for some thick woolly fleece type curtains. you could try getting some spare sticks of wood and hanging a duvet cover up in front of the door and see if it makes a difference.

id probably take each glazed unit out one at a time and clean the seals, then reassemble them with a smear of silicone on each one. its easy enough to get them out, just hammer a gasket scraper between the beading and frame.

just get someone to come and media blast it. the cost will be hard to swallow but the time saved will make up for it.

Stripping off old painted lining paper and my walls have the remains of the old paint on the plaster, what is my best way to remove all of this? as im worried that it will show through when i just paint directly onto the wall. you can feel it when you rub your hand over the wall. dry sanding it will create loads of dust. i did think about using a red scotchbrite and wet sanding it. sorry about the basic decorating question, i did google it. crap walls really ping my OCD so they all have to be mint.

the radiator gets boiling hot so i assumed it wasn't a flow problem.

i dug out my original notes on the subject. id calculated that i needed 547 watts. the rad i fitted was 677 watts. in bedroom 2 the rad is 772 watts, So i can see why that helps it to be warmer. i figured it was all down to the better placement. the 750 high rad is 777 watts which puts me in the same league as bedroom 2 but i think the radiator being wedged up one corner is the deal breaker.

i have 2 bedrooms that are the same size and L shaped, in bedroom 1 i fitted a p+ radiator up the corner and in bedroom 2 i fitted a short but wide k1 radiator along the main wall. the BTU's are about the same but bedroom 1 never seems to heat up, whereas room 2 is perfect.( they both have the same walls/windows/insulation etc). Bedroom 1 has a 500w X 600h radiator with a btu of 2310, if i fit a 500w X 750h with a BTU of 2651 would it make a real world difference? I know the problem lies in me putting the radiator up the corner but i cant really change that now. i don't want to have to alter the pipework which comes up through the floor. my current pipe centres are just over 60mm from the wall so i cant stick a K2 on. i could probably use one of those cheap column rads but its a plasterboard partition wall and id worry about it falling off. sorry about the essay, i just don't know what my best way to proceed is 😒

i assumed it was some crappy old sectional garage you were trying to make habitable. if your place is like that then you are in a much better position. i would do as most have said and strip the old roof off as its probably pretty knackered and stick box profile and some breathable membrane then your insulation/ roof walls etc..

i was quoted £600 to remove and dispose of a corrugated asbestos roof off a 14x16 ft double garage last year. then another £600 to remove and dispose of the walls. be interested to see what you go with as im obviously in a similar boat 😁

my friend lives on a new build estate and most of the houses have a section of the stairs that lift up on hinges/ gas struts to reveal a big cubby hole underneath.

flat or pitched roof?

buy a bigger fillet and cut it to the shape you need. no one will notice its a bit wonky.