Stones

Granted, but the stuff is used in batteries. As I said Lithium and Cobalt production (from what I've read) doesn't appear that 'green'. As we switch to EV's, demand for batteries (and all their constituent parts) will only increase. I do wonder what the environmental impact of satisfying that demand will be. Yes we reduce emissions at point of use, but at what cost?

Interesting to see how this particular debate has unfolded. Are electric vehicles that green? From the perspective of zero emissions at point of use, yes. Assume that the power for those cars is derived from 100% renewable or emission free sources, yes. Assume that all of the vehicle and its constituent parts can be recycled and reused, yes. But there's a problem with the key component in an EV, i.e. the batteries and what they are made of: Lithium production. From everything I've read, it's a hugely damaging (to the environment) process, but because it's out of sight, no-one really cares. In 20 years, I suspect we'll be told, just as we have with Diesel, that we are killing the planet and things have to change. And then there's Cobalt. Kids in the DRC digging up with their bare hands, and little to no environmental protection? Takes the shine of EV's IMHO. Reference was made earlier to patents of key battery technology being sat on. If we truly are at a tipping point in terms of the future of the planet, maybe governments need to seriously look at this, and remove patent protection if the holders fail to licence out or develop the tech themselves. We are prepared to compulsory purchase land to build a road or railway against the wishes of the owner, so why not patents on tech that could improve (or save) our world?

@jack how have you arrived at the conclusion that you won't use the balconies? I assume you haven't used them to date because they've not been finished, and therefore reasonable enough to say you'd never use them, but I think you need to carefully consider the potential use once complete, and the reasons you originally planned them. We're in much the same position re our study room. From the day we moved in it's been used as a dumping ground. It really annoys me and I wish we hadn't bothered and used the money to build an oak desk area elsewhere, but we're finally at the point of doing something meaningful with the space and actually using it, something I really hope will cause me to change my view and embrace the space (granted the cost is hundreds rather than thousands).

Can you not just put a balustrade / Juliet balcony barrier immediately outside the door from your bedroom, to effectively block routine access to the flat roof area?

@Onoff I think you linked to this earlier: https://www.toolstation.com/central-heating-descaler-silencer/p43193 a combo of citric and phosphoric acids. Did you experiment with it at all?

I've been reading this with interest as I've a few tools that need some attention. Phosphoric Acid would seem to be the way to go. A couple of questions for @Jeremy Harris - what is the best method: paint on or fully immerse (or is this really dependant on the level of rust removal required)? What concentration would you suggest, as there seem to be various offerings out there? Once finished, I note your earlier comments that you should avoid rinsing off, just remove excess and allow to dry naturally to preserve protective coating that remains. I also note what you say about degreasing - and particular recommendations in respect of the best way to achieve? I've also seen white vinegar mentioned as a possible rust remover. Has anyone tried this?

Any suggestions what I could do with the vessel body if I'm not going to refurb it for its original purpose? It's a 24 litre.

That's what mine is like, a flange bolted to the body compressing the bladder in position. Fair point.

I recently found that our potable DHW expansion vessel was full of water. I swapped it out with a direct replacement and all is now well with our system. On undertaking an autopsy of the defective expansion vessel, I found that the bladder had failed / split. Clearly it had been split for some time as the water that came out of the vessel was rust coloured. Whilst I can easily source a replacement bladder, fit and recharge the vessel to have as an off the shelf spare, I'm wondering whether this is worthwhile or advisable given that there has been some corrosion within the vessel (to produce the rust coloured water)? The vessel is in otherwise great condition. Thoughts?

I've seen (American) videos of retrofit spray foam insulation being injected into a Timber Frame to fill up potential voids, the idea being the foam expands between plasterboard and whatever insulation is in there (glass/mineral wool) to form a continuous air tight layer immediately behind the plasterboard. Working on the principle that when mixing insulation types, specifically glass/mineral/earth wool type and PIR type board insulation, you would normally install the less vapour permeable first then work outward. I can see how the above retrofit would fit that principle, but do wonder if it's a good idea to compress wool insulation too much. Assume you would also have to take account of whether whatever is behind the glass wool is vapour open or not i.e. normal TF make up with breather membrane okay, but if you would end up creating a sandwich of PIR board, wool then retrofit spray foam, that wouldn't be good (although retrofit EWI seems to work effectively on that basis)? Purely academic, just interested in collective thoughts on the subject.

I was on the phone yesterday to Fernox confirming compatibility of their various products in our UFH (no radiator) system. The chap I spoke to recommended (assuming your satisfied that antifreeze levels are sufficient), dose with F1 inhibitor and F7 biocide. Why not phone their technical team direct?

Related question. How long will the antifreeze in the system last/remain effective, assuming it's not been diluted to any extent by repeated pressure recharge?

Assumed that would be the case, thanks.

I'm planning to top up the antifreeze/inhibitor in my system via the Fernox magnetic trap. The manual specifies propylene glycol antifreeze (toxicity class 1). So far, so good. Clearly there are many brands of combined antifreeze/inhibitor available. Ideally I would use the same brand as used before but as I can't remember what was used, and the manual does not recommend a specific product, are there any potential drawbacks adding a different antifreeze/inhibitor into the system?

At a basic level, I would have thought that the lack of a fully functioning MVHR system is a large part of the problem - i.e. the continued reliance on trickle vents and extractor fans which householders keep closed / don't use? The installation of CO2 monitors to warn householders of poor air quality strikes me as a classic sticking plaster (perhaps due to industry pressure to avoid the significantly higher cost of MVHR). All that warm moist air has to go somewhere , some/much of it ending up in the cold loft?

Make sure you go for a true boiling tap, i.e. can deliver water at 100C. Experience of visiting houses with boiling taps that top out below 100C is scummy tea. Anecdotal but worth bearing in mind.

Yes, although 8 person capacity could apparently be achieved by increasing air flow rate.

I had ours emptied after 18 months (plant serving family of four). Tanker driver whose judgement I think has some weight, suggested emptying every two years, so that's what I've settled on.

Calm please folks.

Should have been clearer, apologies, I meant in terms of deeper reveals.

Only laughed after I'd left! Youngest still talks about his digger driving experience though, so if nothing else your build has inspired the next generation! In answer to the question, battening out using packers to get it plumb before cladding sounds like the best option assuming you don't want to explore the option of a render finish. You should be able to take string lines at intervals from one end to the other to assess how far out of true it is and therefore if packing out is viable. The downside is that any packing is going to show itself at the door reveal and perhaps the window reveals as well. I can't remember what other external finishes you have planned. If packing out for a continuous run of cladding isn't going to work, and it has to be timber, is there scope to vary the style - switch from vertical to horizontal half way down the wall, using the break to step out the lower half slightly? If you were prepared to accept that kind of visual break, how about stone cladding , dry stone walling up to halfway, timber above? Yes you would need another rain cap but might work and allow you to disguise things more easily. I had aluminium cills folded and painted by https://www.mspcladding.co.uk/ and had them quote for a complete bespoke rainwater system which was half the price I could get anywhere else. I'm sure they could fold something and paint to whatever your specifications are for the rain cap. I found them very helpful and more than willing to cater for small orders.

To get the height I need standard office furniture has to be lifted on blocks. Off the shelf therefore not really an option.

Some pictures for context. 1st shows existing, functional but soul destroying layout. 2nd shows proposed position marked out on floor, desk space directly under window, PC on desk space at 90 degrees to the window. Indent at balustrade for built in seat or house plant. 3rd the view I want to see from my desk.

The European Marine Energy Centre is based up here - all kinds of tidal devices, systems and projects being trialled: http://www.emec.org.uk/ Ongoing issues here with proposals to upgrade the grid to handle expected new renewable energy schemes - objections from those who want overhead cables buried, and in turn objections from those who think burying cables will damage wildlife habitat...

Simple, quick, easy.