Makeitstop

Jimbob, will you share what product you are referring to? No need to name business or company that supplied or fitted, just the product. No worries if not.

Hi all. OK, so the question above is aimed at frame material for windows / doors, and, whether any future choice would be wood, pvc or aluminium framed products, whether they be double, triple or whatever glazing. This is obviously for products of the kind of dimension that all materials could handle, so no 20ft high mega sliders or suchlike. Thoughts, and why?

They are certainly well made and I absolutely love the way they operate. Great product overall and I'd not seek to discourage anyone from using them. My question was simply curiosity on how others have found them on the condensation issue, which generally looks to be positive.

Well, I have to admit, my own, fitted in a kitchen / diner / living space of approx 40 sq metres, "does" suffer from condensation on lower part of frames. Now I appreciate that the relative humidity in this space can sometimes be above what might be ideal, but the level of condensation when it's very cold outside is quite startling. I have been pretty disappointed tbh. I have wondered whether the construction at the openings was adequate. It seems it may not be. The structure is cavity wall, of brick outer, 30mm clear cavity, 75mm pir and aerated block inner skin, with dabbed plasterboard and skim. The aerated blocks were returned at openings for window / door, with 30mm pir sealing cavity. I did question whether this was a smart choice and was assured it caused no issues using thermally broken aluminium framed products. That might have been utter bollocks, but I was unsure what to push for as an alternative. I appreciate that the standard of the above is not as good as it could be, and the initial plan was for wider cavity and concrete block internally, but this changed for reasons I wont go into. I haven't been thrilled with the performance of the Reynaers product on a thermal basis though. Frames feel freezing cold when it's very cold outside.

Depends what lvt I guess though.

SBS, how do your reynaers doors perform re: condensation? Do you see anything if it's extremely cold outside?

Oops, hadnt read this, sorry.

Are you sure that not 7021? That's a dark grey that looks kind of "black..ish" but certainly isn't when you put a true black against it. 7016 is anthracite, and is more of a mid blueish / grey and nowhere near as dark as 7021

If you have a hard wax oil finish and would like it to have a "slight" sheen to it, you could try a white 3M scothbrite pad, on an inconspicuous piece to see how much it brings it up. As mentioned above re: burnishing, there is minimal abrasion to using a white pad and this will burnish the surface to some degree.

Roger Bullivant Arsleff Van Elle Foundation piling All larger outfits and will know what they are doing. There are dozens of smaller companys of varying abilities from what I've gathered, and knowledge, experience and reliability can be variable, as can costs. One smaller outfit I was recommended towards was a company called Westbuild piling. While I didn't use them for my own needs, I found them useful and responsive to my enquiries.

Yes, I'd say the quartz and sintered products like dekton are about as long as they get, which is approx 3.2 metres.

Have a search of this site for Allan block. I think Declan has used them, if memory serves me correctly.

Gripfill. Once stuck down, absolutely solid.

Brush down with properly stiff synthetic brush, then...... A solution of white vinegar, approx 1 part to 8 / 10 of water and sponge onto surface. Leave for ten mins and wash off excess. Repeat as required. Definitely improves it.

I'm not a massive fan of the jointing compounds and prefer traditional sand / cement. If that's not an option and if you are going to use the same as previously, I'd look to partially fill any "deep" voids with a finer aggregate / grit, and not sand. I'd say sand is likely to be washed out over time leaving a void below your new grout fill, causing a collapse to some extent. Any areas where the depth of voids is more tolerable can be re-pointed with your compound of choice most likely.

Could you not use thermoblock? That has huge load bearing capacity and is an insulator in itself.

Blimey, that is obsessive.

Sliders every time. If you want the best weather sealing, then lift and slide doors are arguably the best. Whether they're the best choice for you is something only you can decide.

And no, I'm not his wife, or paid employee.

Have to admit, Simons posts always impress me. Not only with the good nature and spirit he does so with, but also with the knowledge and experience he's always so ready to share in a detailed yet easy to understand way. He's an asset to this board.

My experience of various people that have ever done any of this kind of work for me tells me this guy has no idea what he's doing. If you've paid him nowt to date, then you are set to bin him and find an alternative. I would categorically not listen to anything he has to offer by way of excuses. Those who know how it's done know how to avoid these problems. Be firm, and good luck in sorting it.

Depends on type of finish you are looking to achieve

No, hopefully it's not going to need looking at for decades. I'm sure all these systems are good choices and that it's the installer that's the major variable

Its interesting to see the varying opinions on this, which somewhat mirrors what can be found online. As you've experienced Jack, its maybe the installer more than the product itself that is the critical element. For me, I can't help thinking grp might be the better choice if there are penetrations to the deck, although I'm open to being convinced otherwise if the argument is compelling enough.

Thanks. Does it have any penetrations for rooflight etc.? If it weren't for rooflight, I think I'd feel more confident with epdm or pvc