Makeitstop

Are you turfing it?

Unless they are open and it's January. 😜

It will sure, but for what the OP is suggesting as potential choices, I don't see it being a cold experience sitting near them.

I guess it depends somewhat on the overall construction of the entire house, and, whether it "warrants" crazy low U value glazing thoughout. Reynaers are a pretty good tried and tested quality system that stands up to many, although if you want timber internally, then they aren't the choice of course. On the sliding door thing and sightlines, I agree with the above from RG in that for the additional 20 / 30mm of width reduction, it is worth the hassle / cost. Reynaers Hi-finity V CP130 / 155 sliders isn't gaining "that much" and in a way, loses in terms of an overall robust interlock too I'd say. The current trend for ultra thin sightlines escapes me a little I have to admit. As with many things, you pays your money and....

If I am looking to extend off a house, which is built off piles and rc ground beams, is there a standard practise to dowel a new section of ringbeam to the old one? If I have had an SE calculate for beams and provide bending schedule, should there be accompanying advice on anchoring old rc beam to new one?

I think to some extent that it's a matter of opinion on laying beneath cabinets etc, but I'd ask on the above site and see what replies the fitters offer up.

Dry back (glue down) is better. Look at "the flooring forum" and have a read up on it and you'll see it's pretty much a universally preferred choice.

Reynaers too I'd imagine.

@Craig will no doubt provide some good advice on it.

You are looking to split a 4.2 metre wide door into three panels for a bifold? They are going to be seriously large doors on an individual basis. As sliders, less of an issue, but as folding set, they sound a bit unwieldy.

Got this sorted now.

Thanks for the response, but this is a flatroof. Still, I'm confused by 300mm for an upstand, but I'd love to hear opinions of others.

Hi all, Thought I'd ask on this thread rather than starting fresh...... Does anyone know if a warm roof buildup requires a 300mm upstand over a more standard 150mm? On discussing a job with velux, it appears they suggest 300mm for warm roof, which sounds large. Anyone have any knowledge on this?

Hi Nick, Thanks for this, I'll print this out and will pass onto whoever gets onto it. It'll be interesting to see what their response is.

Hi guys, Thanks for the input and advice, I'll pass this on and she can ask anyone she gets out to look into this. This kind of stuff is not my area and I really don't know what I'm looking at. I'm sure if I studied it I could check stuff, but in truth, it's best left to those that already know and have experience. I am fairly clueless on this. What I do know is that she has had some kind of clear...ish crystalized crap stuck in filters of taps, which one guy says comes from some internal part that breaks down. What that means, again, I don't know, but it appears to be an issue on these cylinders. As has been said, it's not clever on something that is six years old. It's also irritating as hell because this is not a long term house and she would rather not be spending on replacing bits of kit like this, but it is how it is. I'll pass on all info here and we'll see what fitters that look into it say. One guy suggested removing the boiler and cylinder and replacing with a combi. I did'nt think that was a great idea. It might be good for the fitter, but maybe not so for my daughter, when she has a perfectly functioning boiler of the same age.

Thanks for the replies. She's getting a few quotes to replace it. One at £1800 to fit a ThermaQ evocyl 150 dual zone, which on the face of it looks a little pricey. Well see how it goes, but youd expect more than 6 years from such a product surely.

Not much to add either but i would be more looking at the 7th image, where the crack runs horizontally and appears to widen to one end.

Nope, not hard water area. And yes, it's just hot outlets, going down to a trickle and virtually nothing at all in some. Its garbage. Cold is fine with excellent pressure.

Hi all, Anyone got any idea on a suitable (or smart choice) replacement for one of these heaps of utter shite? My daughter lives in a new build (Redrow, 6 years old) and has a Range Tribune HE TI150PT4. It appears to have caused a loss of pressure almost everywhere through the house. The main bath tap is barely a trickle, and some other faucets are on a stop too, with extremely limited flow throughout. It would seem from searching online that this is a known problem with this cylinder, and, that some internal part can disintegrate, causing a blocking of the system. She has spoken to kingspan on it and they have asked for every bit of service record, which she doesn't seem able to get her hands on, even though it has been serviced. She has no idea what to do to get kingspan to engage now, and so is considering a replacement. Anyone have any ideas on a suitable swapout for this, to a good, reliable and solid performing cylinder? Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks all.

In my opinion, there isnt any reason why any quality joinery would be known to small time timber merchants only. Larger suppliers (like James Latham for example) that provide materials to all sorts of businesses will likely equally know people you could contact for such jobs. A morning or afternoon making some calls will soon enough yield results as to where to try, and from there, a chat and visit will probably give you some insight as to who you feel happy to work with for the job in question. As a note on the cost, if I was quoted £10k for a door as you describe, I'd not be working with that joinery. No sir.

Yes, what Connor said. Companys such as Rainclear (who make copings / rainwater goods etc) would probably be able to make up something to an exact fit. Google it, there are loads of places that could do that. That would look properly neat.

Meths is unlikely to harm it, as it'll not soften a lacquer if any has been applied, and will only slightly lift an oil finish. Perhaps try a little 000 / 0000 grade steel wool with meths, and rub over area gently, until marks are removed. Make sure to try to work "with" the grain, although with such fine grade steel wool, it's not likely to scratch oak to any degree. If that does the trick, buff dry with clean cloth and then apply a decent flooring oil or danish oil to restore colour. Give it a go on an inconspicuous spot and see how you get on.

I only tried this one door, but was shocked at how heavy it felt compared to a high quality fully aluminium lift and slide 2g door. It was night and day difference. For me, I would rule 3g out in that type of product if it were typical of that size of door, and, if it were one I needed to use "regularly". Would get right on my nerves. Looked lovely, but I generally dont just want to look at my doors.

You'd think the suppliers would give consideration to that and make an adjustment to the product they decide to display in that case. Hardly a great advert for them to have something on show that doesn't function nearly as well as a potential buyer might expect. These are not low priced products after all, and consumers should be able to gauge how the display product might work for them in their own spaces.

I'd try a simple sealer. They deffo bring colour down a bit, but whether enough I dont know. On the colouring options, again, dont know sorry. @Nod may have an opinion on this..