Makeitstop

Its interesting to see the varying opinions on this, which somewhat mirrors what can be found online. As you've experienced Jack, its maybe the installer more than the product itself that is the critical element. For me, I can't help thinking grp might be the better choice if there are penetrations to the deck, although I'm open to being convinced otherwise if the argument is compelling enough.

Thanks. Does it have any penetrations for rooflight etc.? If it weren't for rooflight, I think I'd feel more confident with epdm or pvc

Thanks for the replies. I'll look into the Alwitra product above. On the epdm, I like the idea of that but am less confident about the detailing around rooflight. On roof with no penetration, I'm sure it's a good choice and has less potential for issues with seams.

@ Conor, how long has that been on? It's the seaming that makes me nervous about these PVC products. I'm probably overthinking it.

@Nod, if you could do it again but use a contractor to install on a money no object basis, would you choose grp again?

Do you recall the product name Thorfun? I have been told that siltec is a good product, but know nothing of it. I have a significant issue in buying into anything I'm told is a great product, if I'm being told it by someone that stands to profit from me believing it. Cynical maybe but for me, trust has to be earnt. I'm unsure of what product to use on a job. Approx 6.5 m x 3.5 m flatroof with large rooflight.

Anyone used single ply PVC type materials?

Hi all. As above, what would you use if you had to finish a flatroof project. GRP EPDM PVC single ply Traditional felt Other What and why?

A good Danish oil will do it. Make sure to coat all sides (yes, underneath too) with a few coats of it. To use it, wipe on with clean cloth, sponge or brush, allow to penetrate for a minute or two and then wipe off excess. Allow to dry off and then repeat over next few days. If you want to get a more "sealed" type of finish, where the pores of the grain become clogged, you can apply subsequent coats and rub into grain using wet / dry paper of around 360 / 400 grit paper, ensuring to rub "along" the grain direction. As before, wipe of excess and allow to dry. Just to add..... Whatever you do with Danish oil, DO NOT LEAVE IT WET ON THE SURFACE. You'll have no end of fun trying to rub it back to remove it, the surface will look patchy and feel like it's been coated in honey.

These are porcelain, not slate. If all of them are like that one (which I'd guess they are) then your guy is either incompetent or lazy, or worse still, both. Anyone with any experience would know these need priming with an sbr slurry. Worse still is the absolute joke of a bed they've been laid on. As others have stated, they need a continuous wet bed that provides full coverage of area below slab. Hope you get it sorted. It's simply not good enough as it is.

Stolen from MortarThePoint in an earlier post on similar problem... This is more or less what I have, although instead of insulated slab, I have std beam and block. My door sill is 200mm wide for a dual slider with one panel sitting on track over cavity. I want that to be solid and would preferably want to avoid just using the strength of the screed alone to offer support. Could I partially fill the void with concrete and use 100mm Marmox blocks to sit on top of concrete, so it finishes level with and butting up flush to floor insulation?

I see that yes and have seen previously. However, where you have block laid flat right up to your outer skin, I have a cavity, as my beam and block stops at that point. Of course, I am able to remove the inner leaf to allow insulation to carry on through to external skin, but I'll still have a cavity below. My door sill will be 200 deep, so will bridge the cavity. It's the bearing over the cavity that I had concerns about, as if it's sat on screed only with pir below, I felt it may be a weakness.

Hi all, Looking to fit a sliding door and am curious to know what a "good choice" looks like in terms of closing cavity below sill. This is a simple beam and block floor, with aerated block inner and brick outer skins. I've read all sorts of possible solutions to this issue, including removing inner skin to allow for insulation and screed to run up to outer skin, but have concerns over load bearing of screed sat on pir. What are the general views on best "fix" for this?

Cheeky question, but..... Dreadnought, can I ask what other glazing you have in this space, and is there any chance of a daylight picture of how light is transmitted into the room through this rooflight? Also, what is the overall size of the room?

I think the long and short of it is that an engineer might not like the different methods of foundation support. They're likely to suggest this could result in differential settlement. If structure "A" is on piles and you're seeking to add an adjoining structure "B", an engineer is probably going to advise piled foundation for the new build. Of course, if you have a perfectly sound structure on conventional strip foundation, and are looking to add to that, then ground conditions may dictate that piling could prove the optimal choice, but perhaps not. Mixing foundation techniques (piled and strip) on any new structure however is likely to be less than ideal and an engineer may advise against it. Your best bet is to discuss it with maybe two different engineers, to get some idea of how its viewed.

To be truthful, if you are only looking for upstand, which need be no more than 100mm high, then a local joinery should be able to whizz them out for you at no more cost (often cheaper) than the usual worktop suppliers.

Do you mean pencil round, (or a simple radius on the facing edge?) Bullnose would not be suitable for an upstand, as its effectively a "half round" profile.

NHBC only become invloved "after" any warranty period with more developers. There is an entire industry set up around remedial works on new developments, but whether you get to the stage where you manage to get someone to come look at it remains to be seen. As said above, go in to sales office, preferably when potential new business is also in there and speak with the volume turned up to 11. Keep doing it if you get no joy. Report back here in a week or two with progress. It's always interesting to hear how these outfits operate.

If the development is still ongoing, maybe a visit to sales office to ask if they can enquire about it with site manager. Keep going every 48 hours and make a proper nuisance of yourself until you get their attention. Have you checked state of left insulation? If it comes to it, you can always employ someone to investigate cavity with scope.

Is the bedroom above a garage?

I'm assuming you will be, as you mention "rolling it out". Whack it down, keep it really well watered and let it take over a few weeks. After that, and, if any weeds come through it, you can use a spot weed spray like weedol or resolva. It'll knock weeds back but won't damage grass.

Are you turfing it?

Unless they are open and it's January. 😜

It will sure, but for what the OP is suggesting as potential choices, I don't see it being a cold experience sitting near them.

I guess it depends somewhat on the overall construction of the entire house, and, whether it "warrants" crazy low U value glazing thoughout. Reynaers are a pretty good tried and tested quality system that stands up to many, although if you want timber internally, then they aren't the choice of course. On the sliding door thing and sightlines, I agree with the above from RG in that for the additional 20 / 30mm of width reduction, it is worth the hassle / cost. Reynaers Hi-finity V CP130 / 155 sliders isn't gaining "that much" and in a way, loses in terms of an overall robust interlock too I'd say. The current trend for ultra thin sightlines escapes me a little I have to admit. As with many things, you pays your money and....