Barney12

Thats an impressive erection

Thats my experience of EVERY energy company I've spoken to

"Turnover is vanity, Profit is sanity and cash is King!" Its an an old one but never goes out of date!

Thankfully we've not got that issue as we've got the same tile through the ground floor.

Do I assume the mechanism for these boost switches is a simple volt free NO/NC type setup? Just thinking I might link mine to my c-bus lighting setup. That way I can add some simple intelligence using PIR's etc.

Firstly a huge thanks to @TerryE for some stirling advice regarding my window/door specification. I'm hoping our resident super pro @Nickfromwales will have a view on the point below. Our entire ground floor floor is a power floated slab and we have provisionally chosen an 11mm thick porcelain tile for the whole ground floor. I phoned my tiler and he said allow a 4mm adhesive bed (Apparently BAL recomend 2-6mm hence middle of the range). However, I guess it is true that this does rather rely on the area being completely flat. Thus my question: Is my proposed 15mm FFL build up enough or too skimpy?

Agree with everyone else's comments. You have to tell them.

If you consider the majority of UK housing stock then "technically" all of those statements are true. I'm not saying its "right" or "honest" or "transparent" but they are correct.

I managed to find a YouTube video that suggested that the Samsung units are "fussy" about flow rates. It suggested that the LLH meant that a smaller pump could be used. Does that make sense?

So that angled connector is in the floor of each room?

I cant find anything about the reverse capabilities of the Samsung units. I've read an old post on ebuild that suggests this is common as its not supported as standard due to the requirements of the RHI schemes to only provide heat.

I was doing some 'research surfing' and came back to a link I had saved previously. This pre-plumbed board for ASHP's has a "Low Loss Header". My questions are thus: 1. What the heck is it? 2. Why is it needed?

Thanks. Just need to decide how to terminate at the likely location so that they are hidden until needed. I've a feeling that's not going to be that simple. I assume it's not malleable enough to be lightly coiled behind plasterboard? Or can you join it?

From the above do I assume you ran the pipework through your MBC slab? bringing it outside the house in the location the suited best? Thats a plan that might work for us. How did you insulate once outside or did you go straight to flexi's?

Mono-block. Probably the Samsung 5kw unit.

One of things I'm thinking of doing is adding some first fix pipework for air-to-air conditioning. We have A LOT of south face glazing and so the overheating risk is real (we have recessed the glazing added brise soliel etc to mitigate). As "modeling" can only do so much I'm considering adding the pipework for a couple of aircon units. Luckily our fairly open plan ground floor and larger upstairs central drawing room means that adding one on each floor will provide a fairly good degree of cooling and the MHRV should help further. Obviously retro fitting would be a right PITA so I was thinking why not add the pipework and electrics now, they might be never used but now is the time to do it. Perhaps a kit something like: https://www.air-heatpumps.com/LG/Multi-Split-Systems/LG-MU2M15.UL4 I assume all I need is some pipework as per this kit: https://www.air-heatpumps.com/Installation-Kits/Installation-Kit-A I.e. Insulated copper pipe and condensate drain? Crazy idea? Pitfalls?

I thought I had decided on the location of our ASHP but now I'm reconsidering as its fairly close to the front door and frankly they are "butt ugly". So I'm now considering moving it but that would involve a circa 10m insulated pipe run into the plant room. I appreciate that's not "ideal" but what would the real world losses be? Can I "super insulate" the pipes?

Get a room!

If you can find one in the U.K. then an add a motor is an option. You need curtain tracks with a pull cord. I had them in the barn and they worked very well but are quite noisy. https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Drapery-Existing-Add-Motor/dp/B01N8T8OLQ Edit: a review here: http://www.automatedhome.co.uk/reviews/add-a-motor-curtain-controller-review.html

If it's got a bend in the middle you need a Dr not a joke

Eugh, cloudy German wheat beer

And mighty fine it looks too!!

I wouldn't call you anal. But.......... "he speaks with forked tongue"..............well yes. (To much? Too soon? I'll get me coat )

Would definitely +1 this point. 4 x CAT6 to each TV point is a no brainer and provides cheap future proofing.

This does seem fairly cheap? http://www.screwfix.com/p/mira-apt-exposed-thermostatic-mixer-shower-chrome/5898t?