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Barney12

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Everything posted by Barney12

  1. Barney12
    Actually the window guys are pretty un-fazed. Perhaps they're just pleased its not their problem! Yes to a greater or lesser extent (obviously influenced by the size of the opening) its every room on the South and North elevation.
  2. Barney12
    I'm just disappointed. I very rarely do angry, I find it rather self defeating. I have just written a long email to MBC so I'll see what response I get. This is quite a watershed moment for said company, they are lorded on this forum for their exemplary service/quality and the true test of any companies service is when something goes wrong. I have over 200 directly employed staff so I'm all to aware that when you involve people you get human error. The test is how you resolve it to the satisfaction of the client.
  3. Barney12
    Well I've been to site. I didn't have time today to set up the laser but frankly you don't need it to see that the window fitters are doing the best they can to fit windows into holes that are simply not square. The problem exists on the ground floor where the floor slopes left to right by about 15-20mm across 4m. Unfortunately upstairs its even worse with the frame being out of square by a good 25-30mm across the 4m span. With Internorm only allowing a tolerance of 20mm this is of course not making their job simple. Its not easy to photograph (as its so bright outside compared to in) but these pics of upstairs probably demonstrate the issue quite well: Left hand side. Pretty much tight to the floor: Right hand side. 25-30mm gap (its a steady fall across the span: The same is true of downstairs but of course thats a bit more tricky as its a concrete slab. The window fitters view is the whole house is "on the cock" left to right as they're also having to pack the windows. I'm pretty certain the issues in the timber frame can be rectified with some packed battens etc to square up the openings. The doors are sat on the floor deck so that's going to be a pretty big job to put right. As for the concrete base well there is going to be a large amount of levelling and probably a lot more than self levelling compound could cope with. And for clarity: I'm officially having a bad day!
  4. Barney12
    Just to underline @recoveringacademic point. I'm about to head to site to deal with a potential issue with our big (and very expensive) bi-parting doors where the FFL is a good 5mm higher than agreed (and a good deal higher than the other 4 doors on the same level). Currently the window company are blaming MBC recess detail and the general slab level. I have a sinking feeling that I'll be left with the problem of working out if I can lose 5mm in the tiling. I might need help from the tiling legend aka @Nickfromwales as to whether that's possible. Window and door detailing. It's been a headache from the very start
  5. Barney12
    That is the industry standard (architectural and automotive). Trims are rarely removed. The industry bodge by poor fitters on darker tinted films is to use a sharpie marker to hide poor trimming to stop the light coming through so you don't notice the gap!!
  6. Barney12
    I must admit is was that part of the review that spiked my interest. We get a lot (and I mean at least 3-4 times a month) of power cuts. Often they are just for a matter of seconds but it's a right royal pain the bum. In today's modern world everything resets and takes several minutes to "come back up". It surely most shorten the life of things like; routers, NAS, PC's, Sky Boxes, TV Boxes etc etc. I know we could fit a generator but that's a big messy, maintenance heavy solution which also provides no benefit in short outages.
  7. Barney12
    No I hadn't. Only the Trada one. I'll take a read. Ta!!
  8. Barney12
    The dormers were installed by MBC and the slope is forward not back towards the roof. Thus water is going to run off to the front of the dormer (unless I remove the timbers from the roof they have used to create the slope and reverse them).
  9. Barney12
    That does make sense,
  10. Barney12
    I'm intending to use thermally treated ash with interlocking profile so it should be pretty weather resistant. Ill probably treat it with Osmo Oil which tends to be my weapon of choice for treating bare timber.
  11. Barney12
    I always have up to date plans available. I'm also very fortunate that I have an A1 printer/plotter at home! But that's not really the point I'm making. I've spent nearly 40k on windows, the fitters work for the supplier, the windows were delivered from the suppliers warehouse (which I know is round the corner from their offices) on transport organised by them. So surely it is not unreasonable for me to expect the fitting team to have a set of drawings? A I've said though I've experienced the same from others (Even the first guys onsite from MBC to do the slab had no drawings). I guess it's just the accepted norm in the industry. I'm not ranting by the way. Its a problem easily overcome. I guess I just find it surprising.
  12. Barney12
    There are so many reported instances of applications getting lost between the planning portal submission and the LA that you can only draw the conclusion that it's a deliberate mechanism by the LA to slow work volumes!! As you say you are between a rock and a hard place because the process for redress is largely pointless at this stage! I feel your pain
  13. Barney12
    Alas, that's a common occurrence with small builders Applying pressure is the only real option but I appreciate that's tuff if you're not there all the time. But he does need to lay the law down as no doubt he'll be a "give an inch, take a mile" kind of guy! He'll know exactly which of his clients/jobs he can get away with the most on!
  14. Barney12
    The super sharp lines of @Trw144 roof line (See here: has prompted me to make a design detail decision about the flat roof on my dormers. My died in the blood old boy roofer friend says "Got to have 50mm overhang from the face and sides of the dormer. Nothing less". But that's not exactly going to produce a contemporary sharp looking roof is it? My intention is now to use GRP/fibreglass with the minimum depth of edge I can get away with. Which is my first point of annoyance as all the pre-formed edging strips are min 100mm depth. So what's peoples thoughts on the overhang issue? Can it only be less if you have some form of internal gutter to stop run off?
  15. Barney12
    Well they seem like a nice enough bunch of lads. First coffee delivered and a little "tool box talk" about the importance of getting the FFL right. First comment from the team leader "have you got a drawing with the window numbers on them?". Me: "Yes, here you are and they're all written on the walls too". This "lack of drawings" issue is one that seems a reoccurring theme. Just how much effort would it be for them to include a packet of drawings with the delivery?
  16. Barney12
    You've completely outdone me. I used a Sharpie marker:-) I also added all the dimensions, FFL detail etc so that MBC were absolutely certain what they were doing (as the upper floor openings were made wrong in the factory). Our windows arrived on a lorry 20 minutes ago!
  17. Barney12
    Good review of the Powerwall 2 here. The ROI aspects obviously need taking with a large dose of salt as the install is in Australia! However, some interesting info: http://www.automatedhome.co.uk/carbon-footprint/tesla-powerwall-2-domestic-solar-battery-installation-photos-details.html
  18. Barney12
    How to use jelly crimps:
  19. Barney12
    External cable: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25M-OF-GENUINE-BLACK-BT-TELEPHONE-CABLE-CW1308-2-PAIR-4-CORE-FOR-EXTERNAL-USE-/262243761019?hash=item3d0ef23b7b:g:GzwAAOSw2gxY1BGp
  20. Barney12
    Here's a useful listing showing a 66B box and some jelly crimps. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BT-66B-Grey-External-Joint-Junction-Box-Complete-with-10-x-8A-1-Jelly-Crimps-/201427346858?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275
  21. Barney12
    What I would do is: Remove the lid of the grey box and note the connections (take a photo). Disconnect the black wire that goes into your house. It may simply be spliced to the supply cable with jelly crimps. If it is cut the black cable to the house not the supply cable. Leave the jelly crimps behind for now. There's likely to be a number of pairs of cables but only two connected to your black cable (unless you have more than one line). Disconnect the internal box and save it for the van. Again note or photograph the connections, Do not splice or interfear with the BT supply cable. Just dig it back and remount the grey box on your boundary fence or a 4" fence post if you've got no boundary fence. Get your self some external phone cable or external CAT5 cable. If you've not got a fence to tack it to then you'll either need to put it in a conduit or get an armoured cable and bury it so it doesn't get damaged. You could also put it overhead but I'll guarantee someone will pull it down at some point! Connect the new cable to the grey external box and take it to the van and connect up the internal box you saved. Ideally grab a few jelly crimps from eBay or just charm a couple out of a passing BT man . The wires simply slide in to the crimp housing and your squeeze the connector to make a connection. Post some photos with the boxes removed if you want some more help.
  22. Barney12
    Im not sure a stud detector would find them but a tone set might if they are fairly close to the back of the board. I.e. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GREENLEE-TEXTRON-PTS100-200-432A-TONE-AND-PROBE-SET-TEL-BT-PLUG-/142371929050?hash=item2126073bda:g:bpMAAOxykMpTHtqm It will though be a very feint tone from behind plasterboard. You can also drill some small holes to poke the probe into. Less invasive than a lump hammer Oh and make sure the circuit is NOT live using a tone set!
  23. Barney12
    The first sentence reads likes a fast food menu
  24. Barney12
    On new plaster I've always used Dulux Trade Supermatt: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Dulux-Trade-Supermatt-Emulsion-Paint-White-10L/p/106478 As others have said the Dulux Trade Diamond Hard paints are really good.
  25. Barney12
    Thanks that confirms what I expected. Not having a main brand warranty for service and parts is a big turn off for me.
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