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Barney12

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Everything posted by Barney12

  1. Barney12
    I agree! I did receive an interesting comment from Sunamp on this subject...... "The level of feedback is no worse than a standard hot water tank or store with immersion" which thinking about it is true. Of course where that statement falls down is that you would normally have a controller to manage/control a standard set up. That controller would provide a degree of programming and feedback. You could form the view that the controller is nothing more than an intermediary between a third party control system and the sunamp unit. But of course that also falls down because the controller does do an element of logic control (albeit badly!). The need for the controller is logical in terms of protecting the phase change material (I.e. the soft start function) so why didn't they just stop there? The logic should simply be "turn me on if I need charge" and "do it in such a way to protect the phase change material". Then it would simply be a case of adding a third party controller to do the rest. But instead we seem to have a controller that falls between the gap? Whats odd is it seems to me (and my simple brain) that this "turn it into a dumb controller" would be a very simple software fix?
  2. Barney12
    Having read it again I agree. I think I'm going to have a lie down In my defence I've had so much bloody "non-standard" behaviour from my Sunamps that I'm no longer quite clear what the hell they do!
  3. Barney12
    OK, then maybe I'm wrong, which is not that unusual I'm going to check with Sunamp again.
  4. Barney12
    Hi Jeremy, I'm pretty certain what you've written here is incorrect. The manual is has a number of errors in this section. The actual behaviour is 90% 'charged' or 50% 'charged'. I have an email in my inbox confirming this point it reads: "LED D5* (electric element output) will turn ON when the state of charge goes below about 50% state of charge. Or below about 10% state of charge if option 1 is on" (Please also note the LED numbers are incorrectly referenced in the manual I have)
  5. Barney12
    I was really surprised by this statement as if your unit. Is on the 90%* setting I can’t see how it wouldn’t trigger? Or is the issue that because you are pre-heating your water then the load on the Sunamp is very, very low? *I understand that Sunamp are removing the reference to ‘50%’ and ‘90%’ in the latest manual revision and replacing with generic text terms (I don’t know what they are) as they accept that these figures are only a guide.
  6. Barney12
    As an update: I’ve had a very constructive conversation with the Technical Manager at Sunamp. He emailed me within about 20 minutes of my rant on here so they are clearly reading or at least receiving some feedback ref the comments on here. I get the impression that they do want to resolve issues but are just completely overrun. He took on board my very, very direct feedback about lack of communication and unresolved issues. In fairness to him he was very appologetic. This is all goes back to my previous comments about accepting the pain that comes with being an early adopter. If you can’t get comfortable with that then it’s the wrong product for you. I really hope they don’t “loose the locker room” at this early stage of their development.
  7. Barney12
    From memory you can make a claim for part of the total cost/contract and consequential losses. When I made a claim through Barclaycard the claim form included this scenario. Just make sure you get your claim in within the 120 day time limit.
  8. Barney12
    Consdiering it clearly has been faulty since it was installed I think that’s a feasible outcome, yes.
  9. Barney12
    Yes, exactly that.
  10. Barney12
    Even on the day of installation it tripped the ‘thermostat overload’ (sorry I don’t know what the technical term is) on multiple occasions. I reported it to Sunamp at that point. It’s continued to do so. They are aware of the issue but simply haven’t responded. An interesting point is that the only reason I know it’s tripped is because of the simple indicator light modification as devised by @JSHarris . The control unit says “give me juice” and thus the light is on but because the thermostat has tripped it never charges and the light never goes out. For an average install the only indicator would be............COLD WATER AND NO HEAT. Thankfully there is only me and I’m working a lot so the fact I only have 50% capacity isn’t causing me much issue. Oh and also the fact the house is performing incredibly well in terms of heat retention. Bloody good job too!
  11. Barney12
    They would need to start by responding to technical/warranty issues, I reported mine more than three weeks ago without response! p.s. actually three weeks ago was for the second time.
  12. Barney12
    I’ve just caught up again with this thread. Doesn’t seem like we’ve made much progress. What happened to the promised ‘New Year Update’ solving the issues. I cant even get them to respond to my requests to fix YET ANOTHER faulty unit. Buyer beware is frankly my best advice at this stage.
  13. Barney12
    I guess as long as they keep up the super smooth sell and marketing. Not to mention the tens of thousands of pounds they must spend exhibiting at the big shows. Then hook em' they will. But equally; you never hear that many positive stories about the window installation market. Perhaps the bias on here is just a reflection of their market share?
  14. Barney12
    Wind and driving rain. the shutters don't like either (apparently). Most of my issues were down to the installer getting aspects of the design wrong and then having to rip them out and put them back in. The current issue is design related. The product (in my view) is not as resilient to severe weather as the marketing would have you believe. If there is one lesson I can give anyone reading: NEVER accept the adaptation and re-installation of a window/door. In fairness my installer (more recently) has been responsive to the issues. Its just a right royal PITA! Hindsight.....................if I could bottle it.......................this time next year Rodney
  15. Barney12
    I was really keen on the idea of external motorised blinds but I couldn't find a single installer/manufacturer that was prepared to supply/install on our exposed site. It seems they all have a reputation for being unreliable with the motors being the vulnerable point. Someone more technical than me can explain how ultra reliable garage door motors can be made but not this, size I guess? P.S. Quite a shame really might have helped reduce the number of leaks from my Internorm windows P.P.S. I'm waiting for the UK Technical Director of Internorm to visit my site. His diary was booked three months ahead. What does this tell you?
  16. Barney12

    Internorm

    Barney12 replied to Pete's topic in Windows & Glazing

    Im sorry but this is just wrong. Internorm CHOOSE to supply their windows through distribution. Thus they are absolutely at fault. If Internorm think that they can simply shirk all responsibility for the quality of their product and installation by blaming distribution then they are wrong. I too (like many) have suffered (and still have unresolved issues) from the Internorm experience and yes before you say it they were indeed a supposed “first window partner” or whatever the marketing rubbish that they hide behind. Buyer beware!
  17. Barney12
    Do you want children (or more children)? I’ve not seen one episode of Grand Designs where a partner doesn’t get pregnant ?
  18. Barney12
    As you’ve said a harmony Hub with echo dot will achieve this. Alternatively the Broadlink devices are cheaper and also support Alexa: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Broadlink-RM33-RM-Pro-Automation-Black/dp/B07F9XCQMM Alexa can be a bit temperamental with both those devices though so it depends on how confused your friend gets. An even simpler alternative would be to pair a harmony hub with a Logitech Pop https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M0V5RYQ/ref=psdc_1938304031_t1_B073XH6RV4 they don’t get the best reviews but thats mainly down to the limited functionality which is in this case just what you want.
  19. Barney12
    Doordeals have what you want. I’ve used them before and the service was good: https://www.doordeals.co.uk/products/door-frames-and-mouldings/internal-door-frames/internal-softwood-door-lining.aspx
  20. Barney12
    @Nickfromwales flogged them that load of cheap Chinese timers ?
  21. Barney12
    Who knows but for the full feature set you probably need to fit a din rail timer to switch it off and on again each morning.
  22. Barney12
    Any halves?
  23. Barney12
    Thats exactly how mine are wired.
  24. Barney12
    Im a big fan of 5amp circuits it provides you so much more flexibility with lighting. ive also always put double switches by the side of the bed in the master bedroom which switches the bedside lamp and the main lights.
  25. Barney12
    The pipework can come out of either side or the back. You simply rotate the tectite elbows. But, it all needs doing from under the top lid. There is no other access.
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