Barney12

Yep, I a self confessed Defender addict. I've tried to kick the habit but just can't. My latest if my best yet. A completely unmolested, factory spec 50th Anniversary with the standard flip metallic paint, 4LTR V8 automatic. It even has the original tape deck I'm in love Oh and sometimes I start the engine just to listen to the engine ? Sorry trashing your thread OP

Apart from the Land Rover Defender of course My last "new" Defender (right at the end of production) was rusty straight from the factory ?

Thanks for the tip. I’ll research that too.

What I REALLY want is a moat and drawbridge. Oh and a couple of gun turrets ?

Chatting to my stone mason on site today this was his advice.

Crikey that looks lovely!

As I’m replacing an existing culvert ( if you can call a 300mm such) I don’t need any permissions. In fact DCC were completely disinterested when I called them and said “speak to the national park” who in turn said “speak to DCC”. Both said if it’s replacing an existing crossing then nothing to inform them of.

Thanks. Mine runs pretty much all year but can turn into a fast running river in very wet weather due the huge catchment area and huge fall. That one you've linked to isn't going to be big enough for me but looks viable for some. I've also found these guys who are the only one I've found that make a smaller unit. Alas I'm still waiting for a quote and suspect they've little appetite for the self builder! https://www.stanton-bonna.co.uk/drainage-systems/compact-culverts/

This is why I LOVE this forum!

OK, so I've got this lovely leat that runs across my land which is fed from the open moor. Where it passes under the driveway there is a 300mm pipe which is a complete PITA as it blocks pretty much every winter and floods the driveway as all manor of foliage and leaves, branches etc head down the leat in wet/stormy weather. So I need some options. Unfortunately I've not got a lot of height to play with so installing say a 600mm pipe isn't possible. I could put two 300mm pipes side by side but every local I speak to says the same thing (thick Devon accent require) "them there pipes will jus blok up boy". So my mind is moving to building a square channel culvert..... This is a big commercial version: All the commercial options are HUGE and custom build is crazy money. So two options: Try and build it insitu (not simple as the water would need diverting so concrete can dry) or create the concrete sections (shuttering, rebar etc) and lower into place (I've got an 8T machine onsite). But what about the top? Its going to need to take vehicle traffic. Re-enforced concrete with rebar again? The total width is about 3m and I could go as wide as say 1m. Will this work? Better options? Am I mad? Am I overthinking? (the last two answers are yes and always!)

Dogs and cats definitely add to the dust in a house. Dogs especially.

+1 It’s got me out of trouble before.

Thanks for the tips. My CAD knowledge is all rather self taught. ?

Thanks. After posting I did a bit of Googling and realised just that and brushed off my GCSE maths ? What you’ve written is exactly what I went back with and they were happy.

I went for a 60mm high pencil profile. Its the same for the architraves as the skirting which IMHO gives a nice contemporary look. I bought primed MDF and then site sprayed it all with precat lacquer in the same white (RAL9016) as the Internorm windows. This was incredibly labour intensive! It took me a week to prep (every nail hole, nick and mitre filled and sanded), masking up another week and probably another week to prime and apply 3 top coats. It should be pretty much maintenance free for a good number of years. If you had to pay a company to spray I suspect it would be prohibitively expensive.

Hi All (Sorry if this is in the wrong forum but couldn't decide where it should go) So, as part of my landscape design I need a curved piece of corten steel. Simple so far apart from the fact it also has two tapers (As its being built into a slope. Every fabricator I go to says they need a "development drawing" which is pushing my CAD knowledge to the limit. I've attached what I've drawn in Sketchup (the section in question is '2'). Is there someone cleverer than me that can enlighten me? Huge thanks in advance. Cor-Ten Steel.pdf

I personally don’t like direct connections but do concede they look tidier. The reason being that any crud (in particular leaves) is going to head straight into your drain and into your soakaway. At least with a grate/hopper it provides a basic filter and makes general cleaning/rodding simpler. Perhaps not a point to worry about in some locations but I’m surrounded by trees, bushes and moorland. So crud a plenty!

Thanks @JSHarris I've supplied that info. Rob

Just resurrecting this thread as I'm just finalising my 'as built' SAP rating. Has anyone actually got the 'final answer' as to what the energy assessor inputs in his calcs for a Sunamp unit? I'm trying to make things simple by proving the answers in advance to save a lot of 'bank'n'forth' with the online assessment company.

It wouldn't be normal. Usually just planning consents (where not covered by permitted development) and building completion certification. Its the latter that become very strict as liability for faults is now considered lifetime. The one thing that could change the above is if a future buyer was to have a full survey and identified something they're were not happy with and then insisted on structural surveys etc. Funnily enough exactly the above scenarios have just happened on a property my ex-wife is buying. Extension built in the early 1980's, with no planning and no building completion cert. The issue has been solved with a full structural engineers report and an indemnity policy to cover future risk. All in a cost of about £1,000 to sort out which the sellers have met.

I think those cubes are one cubic meter.

Working on the assumption of a hosepipe using 1000ltrs an hour (which seems to be want google suggests) then I think in reality I need 2000ltrs of storage per day in the summer months. This of course is if the weather is dry. Once the garden is established then it will reduce.

Ok, so I’ve been doing a good degree of reading (thanks Google) and it seems my early attempts to store grey water were a little flawed ( it was on the recommendation of a ground worker I had on-site years ago at the very early stages of owning the plot) and in fact may have been missing the bloody obvious! @JSHarris comment re BOD tells me that I really could now do with diverting the utility room outlet in the flat to the treatment plant (which wasn’t installed when the flat was built). Not a huge job but a certain amount of buggering around involving a digger. But then today I was chatting to a neighbour about my quandary and he said “why are you not simply taking water from the leat?”. I of course looked at him blankly and said “can I do that?” To which he replied “yes, 20 cubic meters a day without a licence”. Now the good bit is the leat is at the top of my plot and crosses my steeply sloping land. So gravity is on my side! I also have plenty of space for some storage tanks. So so now my mind is turning to “abstraction”. The source is on the open moor. In short in summer it can be a gentle trickle, in winter a torrent! I’m thinking that some form of dam that creates a holding area (mini reservoir?) which I can then draw from? I have gravity on my side so some form of filter in the dam that runs to storage tanks using MDPE pipe? This is all about being able to irrigate a massive landscaping project. Have I gone mad? Too many G&T’s?

Ok, you’ve got me.....BOD?

No not really. Mesh would be fine thinking about it.