Barney12

Well it’s a box so yes they’ll stack in theory BUT and in my opinion it’s a bloody big BUT once you get bigger than the smallest units.... As this thread has proven the case design can’t withstand much force, I’m sorry but I just can’t see them being able to support the weight of an additional unit but I suppose the case will withstand downward force better. But there is a more fundamental problem that you’ll need to overcome......you’ll need some lifting gear probably a genie lift as a minimum, have a look at the table below these things weigh a lot and they are a smooth white box, no lifting handles or lifting points. Lastly, all the plumbing is in the top of the units, so you’ll need to plumb one at a time. Personally I’d ensure that the bottom unit was working before I bought in the heavy lifting gear to plonk one on top! In summary; I wouldn’t do it. I had originally considered stacking mine but the plan was to get my local steel fabricator to make up a frame for each to stack into. It would have never worked though as I don’t think I would have got the required lifting gear into the plant room.

I get your point but I don’t think so. For standard heating requirements in an averagely insulated home even the 12kwh units aren’t man enough for the job. Plus even something as simple as doubling up means you have significant logistical issues, they take up a large amount of space and have to be on the floor. But more significantly the things are bloody heavy, in fact the 12kwh units are so heavy and cumbersome that they are almost logistically impossible to get into a house even at ground floor level. On top of all that the cost of even one unit is more expensive than an average combi boiler. So for the majority of mains gas connected properties they’re not going to tick the box of the average landlord.

Yes.

Thanks for the update @JSHarris So to use off peak electric for when the solar generation diverted was not enough to fully charge you'd have to: 1. Time Switch "ON" early AM and Sunamp set to receive power from solar diverter only. 2. Time switch "ON" for grid power at start of economy period where the Sunamps will continue to charge until full. My new units have only been operating since Friday night so I'm still trying to build a picture of usage. So far I've ascertained that: One shower uses (just under) 4kwh. (I guess I shower for longer than you and its also a shower with fairly high flow rates). Switching the UFH on for a 1 hour period uses between 5-6kwh. This is where the room temperature is already circa 21 degrees and so is effectively 'topping up the heat'. Its all a bit of a back of fag packet at the moment but that two hours of UFH (with the manifolds at 30 degrees) increases the room temp by about 1 degree. That one degree rise seems to be lasting for a 24 hour period (Which I guess is pretty impressive and a nod to the levels of insulation etc of my MBC build). Of course the amount of energy consumed is going to be driven by the existing slab temperature. Would it be true that slab temps broadly mirror room temps? (I know there is a thread on "measuring the chunk" or something like that but its WAY above my head at a techy level). Thus with the UFH on for 2 hours it can trigger the charge demand on my 24kwh set up (2 x 12's). I guess in theory if the two 3kwh immersions are firing at the same time as the UFH demand then the units would remain fairly well charged? Clearly its all going to need a huge amount of trial and error to get the heating right without waking in the morning to no hot water. Much to do! My summary would be; its feeling a VERY long way from an 'all electric' heating and DHW solution for the average consumer. The controllers are woefully inadequate for sensible control even of basic functionality, let alone solar PV maximising.

I can’t claim credit for the tidy pipework. That’s all down to @Nickfromwales who is trying hard to acheive my levels of OCD. I've spent the entire afternoon lagging the pipework, crikey what a thankless task. Not quite finished but will be sure to post a photo when I do. It did seem a bit of a shame to cover up all that lovely copper and brass

It would likely roll off before getting hot as the lid and container starts bulging ?

He generoulsy left me a half eaten box as a Christmas gift

Here’s my two side by side after @Nickfromwales and his faithful assistant Will finished their handiwork.

The OP was actually @readiescards not me BUT I can confirm that the two uniQ eHW 12’s which have just been commissioned also have the same C rating label.

Every day is a school day

Just checked all mine with a meter. Felt safer that way!!

Thats good news but alas another example of the appalling documentation by Sunamp

Guys A bit of a post as a "heads up". I was fitting my replacement controllers today (both my Sunamps are being replaced, a story for another day) and nearly forgot to do something pretty fundamentally important. The reason for this post is that I could easily see a busy plumber/sparky/installer completing missing this. Let me explain firstly with some pictures. Here's the controller as supplied by Sunamp: For simplicity I've removed the lid and the earthing fly lead which is screwed to the back panel (you can see the screw just below the contactor bottom right). Then here's the wiring diagram which is on the back of the lid and also printed in the manual: So as per the title the thing we need to be focusing on is earthing. You will note that the diagram shows the earthing connection across the three live blocks and then back (assumably to the case?) BUT and it's a BIG but. Look again at the controller image the earth wiring is NOT there. Nowhere in the manual does it tell you that its your responsibility to make these connections for the earthing. As far as I can see if you were to fail to make these connections the Sunamp unit itself and the controller case would not be earthed.

If you’re really that paranoid there is an incredibly simple design mod using a piece of angled aluminium profile that sits underneath and traps the feet. Simply bolt it into position from underneath. I would also recommend a good deal of wriggle room top, bottom and sides. Further, I designed mine to be 700 deep so I had plenty of room at the back so I wasn’t struggling with pipework.

Yes, they are very much aware. As to how big and how itchy the rash is I'm not so certain but I know @Nickfromwales is trying to keep the communication channels open and flowing.

Yes, exactly that. Well at least it will be when I finish it The bottom draws open to a flat shelf which lifts up for storage.

Yes, the design is key. The carcass is 25mm with additional reinforcement in various places with the whole thing bolted to the wall.

Back on the subject of washing...... Consider mounting your washer and dryer higher up if you have the room. Makes it so much easier on the back! You need to design the carcass/units well as it’s subject to a fair amount of vibration if you’ve got your big pants on a 1400 spin Heres mine and I don’t think I could go back to ground mounted.....

Absolutely. The press is littered with stories of unsuspecting tenants with supposedly ‘low energy, low cost’ homes which are costing a fortune to run.

Absolutey stunning; inside and out. The stonework is lovely. Nice wabbbbit!

Please tell me you swung your leg up onto the conveyer whilst wielding your Swiss thus revealing your red soles. Or did you just high kick the said security tag into the veg isle thus thawting the person who bought a lowly security enabled cucumber? That will learn those closet Hendrix drinkers

Fair point!

and your Dr Martins?

Excuse me? I resemble that remark

I’m probably the wrong person to be pondering this, as I’m not a tech guru but why didn’t Sunamp just make a little bolt on box containing a Willis heater and pump for the ‘e’ variants?