Roundtuit

Use the same fix, it will just take a bit more time and effort using filler to get a good finish. You won't be able to see it when you're done and painted.

I've got similar on my larch. I'm lead to believe the mould is living on the sugars in the sap wood, and will exhaust its food supply in time and then fade as the timber weathers.

I think there has to be a valid planning reason to refuse your application. If there is a valid reason, whether your neighbour objects or not is irrelevant, and whatever private agreement you come to with him doesn't trump planning law. I would continue discussions about acceptability with the planners, not your neighbour.

Yes.

If you ever want to sell, a buyers surveyor will probably be interested in looking up there to establish the state of the timber and the amount of insulation. Hopefully you won't need to remove wasps nests or trap squirrels, but I'd put a hatch in...

Airtightness is important to the performance of your house in terms of heating requirement and comfort levels. In simple terms, you don't get the full benefit of your insulation if the air is bypassing it.

Why have a test before you're ready? For a new build, I'd be aspiring to much better than a scrape through...

Hi. I had one made at Jupiter Blue (also for utility room as it happens). Can't recall the price, but it was reasonable.

Bio Pure 2 here, discharging straight into ditch (England). The ditch usually has water in, but that may be because there is also some discharge going into it upstream.

Still got it! I was pleasantly surprised; seems well made, starts first pull and does the job. To be fair, I've still got a few jobs to do with it before I think about selling it, but I reckon I'll get back most of what I paid if I do.

Sorry, your guess would be as good as mine!

Yes, pretty much, or off any point (internal walls?) deemed solid enough to take the load. Not sure how feasible that is, but I think I'd be trying to come up with a solution in principle with a good builder (they're often pretty creative problem-solvers), before passing it to an engineer to do the maths.

Sorry- misunderstood the point of the question! Thought it was the tank that was the problem, but I see you have bigger challenges... Can't offer any specific advise, but thinking 'out of the box' is there any scope for running steels diagonally from your support points, perhaps to provide intermediate support where there currently is none? Or (and I appreciate this might be a step too far), if you've got weight bearing walls in the right place, perhaps a length of UC running up through a bedroom, boxed in?

Welcome! There's no other single resource with such a diverse range of expertise and experience for self-builders; sit back and soak it up!

Looking at that sort of money, I'd be seriously thinking about re-locating the tank somewhere else and updating your hot water system tbh.

For small pictures I'd use a plug and screw; for bigger pictures, two plugs and screws, spaced appropriately. For heavier stuff, try and position it where you can screw into a batten and just use wood screws.

I bought a used Leica Rugby 100 with receiver for about £200 on eBay, whilst I was getting twitchy waiting for pp to come through. I checked/adjusted calibration and it's accurate to within a few mm over 100m, so plenty good enough for landscaping and shed bases etc (which is all I've ever used it for). If you've got the time, it's worth a look.

Hi, and welcome. This is a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question, but I can give you a few thoughts as a starter from experience restoring a listed Georgian house: - rule #1. Start at the top and chase the dust down and out. It sounds like the work in the bedroom is significant, so I'd get it done before you get any nice stuff done downstairs. - Walls & ceiling. Sounds like lath and lime plaster. If it's in decent condition, still bonded to the lath, it's going to be easiest to keep it as is, assuming you're happy with what is probably a rough-ar$ed finish after you've got the woodchip off. If you want better (i.e smoother), then it has probably got to come off and be replaced with plasterboard and skimmed. If it's not subject to any conservation constraints, that might be the best bet, as you can re-wire, insulate and add vapour barrier as necessary. It needs to be done with caution though; the lath stops the studs from twisting and bowing, so get advice before ripping it all off. - wobbly wall. Sounds like a partition wall that's no longer tied in properly. Needs further investigation. - Floor. If you want exposed floorboards, you really need to lift and shuffle up to fill the gaps. We did one room this way; the job was a pig, but the finished floor was great. Expect to loose some boards through damage, but you really need to try a few to find out how easy they come up; we robbed some spares from another room that was due to be carpeted. If you want to sand it, don't under estimate the amount of dust! - fireplace. The chimney breast brickwork was never meant to be exposed, so it might not be as pretty as you hope. Again, opening up a fire place is potentially a very dirty job, depending on the condition. Take it gently; we opened up two fire places ok, but our neighbours had a lintel collapse/massive soot-fall/big insurance claim. I guess your approach really needs to reflect what balance you want to achieve between retaining historical fabric, restoring or maintaining period features, improving building performance, getting 'the look' you're after, and, of course, budget. I don't suppose that helps much, but perhaps a few things to consider!

I cut several well-established ivy 'trees' off at the base about 6 years ago that were smothering some Birch and Ash trees. Some of the stems were four or five inches thick and heavily intertwined. The dead ivy branches are still dropping off now when its windy, and will be doing so for a few years yet I reckon. It does look a bit unsightly, but not bad enough to get the ladder out! I also suspect that the decaying ivy wood has an environmental value as we have both Green and Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers paying regular visits to check for bugs.

I've not had much success with edging tape. For ease, I think I'd get a length of aluminium end cap, cut to suit and glue and/or screw fix it on. You'll be binning most of the end cap, but it will protect the edge and take a bit of wear and tear. It is the utility room ?

Great work! By the time you're finished, your problem-solving skills will be honed to perfection!

I assume simply screwing from the front through the support is out of the question? What's behind it? Can it be assembled flat and then put in place?

Looks like the old lintel (like your neighbours) has been taken out to put a taller window in, and maybe moved to the right a bit. It's been done badly with an undersized bit of steel so the brickwork has dropped. Not sure what's going on with the pointing to the right; looks like it's been painted on. I'd try and get it tidied up a bit - repoint above the window, make the gutter joint look better and get rid of the vegetation - and see what comes up on a survey.

Why not put the insulation into your existing structure? Not sure what the osb will be adding tbh.

Fair enough; my last place was Georgian, so green was more in keeping with the period.