Oz07

Some stainless steel screws or galv 90 gun nails

even if it was the full 50, thats only 6mm overhang each side of a 38mm board. Crack on

Did you ever do a detail drawing of your reveals @tonyshouse? We're your Windows behind the face brickwork? Did you build plywood box?

Most block and beams I work off nowadays are flow screeded at dpc stage before superstructure. Have nhbc not bought some new regs in about mesh and structural screeds over block and beam?

The trusses I've recieved are sometimes nothing like each other. That's why it's always tag to same side then fix to a line. Diminishers are the worst. The lads knocking these up on the line are on low wage. @epsilonGreedy ask a local wood yard to do you some 50x38 treated or use 2x2 if you're worried. Anything else is mental

Insane. I've honestly seen loads of 600 centre trusses have a slated roof ontop. What's he using a toffee hammer

Maybe regs have changed. I always thought 800. You won't need luck I've never had pvc leak. Just be sure you've not trapped any air else water level can drop as air leaks out top make you think you have a leak.

Tosh nail same as you do a noggin between 2 pieces.

1. Ask bro but I doubt it. It's only a buffer and when full achieves nothing. 2.I see some drains as close as 2 or 300 to surface on some jobs. I've always concreted (encased) them when anything less than 600 ish on a driveway 3. sounds good, doubt you can re use water though

It's not got to be 1 continuous piece get that out of your head straight away. You be also not got to square the tops off just lift the nogs up so they finish at peak level or higher. You're over thinking this.

You in effect just need to nog between the trusses to give you a nice flat surface to sit the roll on? Most roofers with dry ridge screw a batten along the top of the trusses at the peak to fix down into. Couldn't you do this Then fit roll ontop of that. 2x1 batten is fine for 600 slate is lighter than concrete or clay.

I think when ordering external door just ask your supplier if part m compliant. The onus should be on them then. A bit like if you get a quote for stairs and can't achieve the regs they make you aware of this and sign disclaimer

I think fire foam only passes the test it needs to when no more than 10mm between 2 conc blocks. On proper joints now they want fire batts with imtimescent mastic.

Most bco be fine 838 internal it's just external door they can be funny about

800 clear opening so if you have an anal bc he will measure off your doorstop on lock side to face of door on other side. Ask me how I know!

I see companies promoting opportunities for reps to take up reporting of this. Presume there is some bizzare financial incentive

It's ok making your house airtight but how many times do you shut a door and it slams because the Windows open. Happening to me regularly atm. You get used to the room having a certain amount of vaccum then SLAM

I'd prefer something not hard bound like plannings which could be repaired easily. Not great for workshop though.

1 60 is more like 18mm. I've laid at 12 before now.

Not end of the world

Some rotary levels so this and mark with the reciever. Mine does. Also gives 90 deg

Is the slab poured on polythene? Do you have a section of drawing I don't understand why you'd need waterproofing. My slab is below dpc level of brickwork but wrapped up

Just ask when ordering if part m compliant. Look ok to me.

What made you swap methods?

What do you lot all pay for internet. I'm currently paying 40 for internet and SIM only mobile pretty much all unlimited think only 10gb on the phone data though. If I move to virgin their low vroom package is like 32, the phone is around 12 quid then you get 5 off if you have both. This is thru business and excludes vat. Suddenly I think 500 quid a year is a decent chunk of money.