Oz07

Seen some panels with moss on today walking around. What's the way to keep this off? Regular cleaning or can you just stick a length of copper wire to the house ridge or at top of panels?

I meant the mist coat super diluted. There must be a way to make it stick to another paint else they are basically saying you need a fresh plastered wall if your going to use this paint ie not suitable for existing walls without re skim.

Are heat pump warranties 10 years or more like a boiler? Genuine question I've never looked in to them

What about if super diluted? Still same?

Gas won't be phased out before your boiler packs up. Or if it is you have a really well made boiler.

Is there any universal mist coat you can use? I used that cheap Leyland in last place for mist and put the dulux diamond matt over the top no problems and that was pretty expensive paint

Keep till the boiler packs up. Likely 10+ years.

It's difficult to guess in that case then. I doubt you'd have a flat roof in that space. What id guess is a 3x2 or 4x2 timber plate ontop of your window, following each section, then some ceiling joists resting on this plate or window heads, then your rafters joined to these. With a brick or possible stud wall in line with first floor wall as you've said it used to be a bungalow

Ok then well its probably a lintel in line with first floor walls and the hipped roof built off this resting on the bay window. I doubt its your floor joists cantelivered out as your ceiling is flush inside. Can't you go upstairs and check out the wall below that first floor window? Knock it is it solid or hollow.

It's a modern house isn't it looking at the brick bond? I'd guess a mono truss arrangement above window although might be wrong as its hipped

Do you pull the applicant name and details and write them letters ? Dear sirs seen this on planning portal would be interested in purchasing for family home etc etc

Yeh I know about the cuts being cracked control done it plenty. Just curiosity post people tend to tie ufh pipes to mesh if in slab or alternatively clip to insulation if in screed. Was wondering if the pipes accommodate movement ok if in actual slab with no mesh

Research height above plate. That's what you're trying to match if you want to keep everything in plane up top.

FYI this is exactly how I'd expect a frame to be installed in an existing opening. End of story. What would you propose as an alternative chat gpt?🤣

I think these responses are being written by AI Is there any way bots can join the forum and post these type of queries or is op just utilising ai to draft their responses. You suspect the original query is copy paste due to the formatting. There have been a couple of posts on this forum recently that make me suspicious. The user the other week quoting replies and inserting spam links.

In this case I doubt it will be noticeable. It normally happens more when you have a bastard valley. The ones you see are not purposely setting it lower they are just keeping the internal line set flush to the rafters Think of it if you cut a 6x2 at 10 deg it will be near enough 6" across the cut, cut it at 45 degrees and will be a lot longer.

You're worrying too much if it were a passive new build fair enough. To me it looks like the installers have done an ok job with the circumstances. What did you expect the door to be made 25mm short then insulated below and sit on pvc packers which are cold bridges anyway? To me it looks like your screed has no thermal break to the outside bricks. Completely beyond the remit of some pvc door installers. Atleast they've put you some dpc down, thats above and beyond IMO. If you wanted to sort any potential defects with the way your building was put together you should of ripped the old frame out, done what you needed to do, then had the frame made to suit the alterations. I think your out of order trying to seek redress for this. If your getting a draft a good healthy bead of silicone around the internal and check the locks and seals are adjusted right. That's fair enough.

Do you not get option for 32mm connection there? Who's your water board? Good idea to come up just inside the garage. If you can tunnel under enough you can get the pipe up through the bottom and just repair dpm with tape and membrane. It's got to be punctured to bring the pipe up through anyway

Why would you want to make your life harder? If you've already boarded I'd just use the foam.

It's just because the valleys are on a lower pitch so the plumb cut is higher on the main plane of the roof.

Much less than masonry in the hole then? What is op worried about? Position in cavity?

32mm is ok round here although the depth you've got isn't good. Are you thinking of a new trench through the garage slab or just a hole to bring it up? Any sketch?

Welcome... If doing ufh in slab, with the ufh stapled to insulation and no mesh, is this ok with concrete and cutting crack control joints in the top 3rd? Would the pipes likely accommodate any movement the concrete could make

That foam will cover the gap. I got a good air score last time and didn't worry too much about this junction. Think I just used the foam as above. I would guess its one of the less crucial airtightness details on traditional construction

Could illbruck foam the gap once boarded if you leave the boards an inch or so off floor gives a good gap to make a nice bead. Cut back flush with board once gone off