Oz07

I got planning for a place 5 years ago. Existing garden and single garage to knock down no silly reports or consulatants needed. Got my eye on another plot locally. Garden land with double garage. Same council, not a conservation area. I see now they are having to have a protected species survey what the hell is that about? Combined with the ecological biodiversity crap (they didn't go for "self build" in planning app) it just seems like the red tape is getting worse and worse in this game.

Never really heard of rubble foundations. They look cool. Wonder how many one off builds get built with these over here.

I found them helpful buying some gear for a job. What did you do find another brickie or stick with original @Gibdog? I like the idea of this with the flexibility but if using on a concreted foundation I suppose the flexibility is redundant?

Presumably this timber showing around the edge is no less ventilated than any of the other pieces? That section shows another piece inside of this. Good question though I bet most people would just cover it up without a thought.

Am I being dense? Surely you have to cover the whole roof in osb or something first. Easy enough nail on some temp battens as you go up. Then cover in pir or woodfibre. Less easy but can still invisage. Then you've got to felt and batten inline with rafters? How to do this in 1 go? Unless your battens inline with the rafters are only 1m long or whatever width a roll of felt is. Final battens for tiling easy as standard.

Even with foul I think it's been discussed here before that since pipes are mostly pvc now the maximum gradient has been deleted from building regs? I've done a backdrop before but was a tight situation without any alternative. Used pcc risers and benched traditionally.

Yep and some 90mm ring shank nails. Although isn't the old rule nail length 3x whatever your fixing through.

You will have arms like popeye using the dewalt one. But you will save money buying nails exc gas. I'd be looking to hire in your case if can do it all in a week or 2. Otherwise just buy and re sell you won't regret it.

Stupid question but when doing these warm roofs what is the process for the top layer with insulation. Are you covering the whole roof first then putting up your long battens inline with the rafters then nailing your cross battens ontop. I just envisage trying to climb around a pitched roof with no battens to climb on

Where I am in The country a gas connection is about 300 quid for newbuild. It's literally the cheapest service to bring on site. God knows why seems to be subsidised by govt. You'd think water was more important?! It's a no brainer for me I'd get gas every time. As for standing charge that isn't the case. If you don't have a gas meter you won't be paying a standing charge. Isn't gas the cheapest energy per khw for a standard punter? Also cooking on gas is something I prefer but haven't tried induction tbf.

I didn't realise the manifold setup had to be so complicated. Last place of ours I did manifolds and just had a hot and cold one. 10mm to basins and 15mm to everything else. No non-return valve or pressure reducers etc. Tbf the pressure in that area was rubbish and the hot was fed off a combi so only had a certain flow rate anyway. 22mm soldered copper from the mains under the kitchen sink to the manifolds and boiler in plant cupboard. Kitchen tap direct off mains for cold with 15mm from manifold for hot. All seemed to work well was goos when occasionally had to turn something off at manifold quite easy.

My effort 10+ years ago with the wet room style vertical trap gaffer taped. Had a board of MDF set 20mm lower from memory

I see thanks. I was just forming a 20mm dip in the slab for a wet room style shower and it was more pain than I anticipated

@Gone West @JohnMo How were you guys connecting the eps to the soil pipe to form a tray for the shower? What kept the eps at the right level and stopped the concrete floating it up? I did a similar thing with board of ply or mdf years ago just to give me a 20mm recess in the slab and it was a bit of a pain. Presumably you were still letting concrete flow under the eps former and not shuttering off the whole shower area? In most recent build I just positioned pipe perfectly for shower tray and had low profile tray on top of slab with straight waste and like a pan connector type rubber around it to connect to 110mm soil.

Yeh i'm getting below 600 at the minute with windows on latch but its not heating season!

Any heat exchanger or just extract?

I'd double check nhbc guides with this. @nod knows his stuff but I always thought 12.5mm was fine on 600 spacings but had to be noggins on board edges and perimeter. I think 15mm board allows for 600 c/c, no noggins or maybe just perimeter noggins.

Are these MEV just in the wet rooms and kitchen? I'm not really a fan of trickle vents

What about the 1 piece black ones think they are wavin. What are they 250mm and 600mm deep in one piece you just cut the riser down. 3 inlet flush invert with good stoppers on the sides not being used. They are pretty handy.

what levels do you get up to in bedrooms at night? Do you have windows cracked? Think winter is where it saves the money. I generally agree that the benefits are oversold, probably because when we have spent thousands on it we are not always honest with ourselves. That being said I would always put one in another new build.

I've seen worse than 15mm overhang. If you want it looking neater put a half lap joint where that brick wall is and move the wall plate either side with a step there. The chippies might not thank you for it depending on how they measure and mark their rafters.

Surely it doesnt mean an untrapped drain connection?

Datum heights are easily done off surrounding fixed points or a timber stake. When i set out myself i like to bang 2 3x2 stakes in with a horizontal 2x1 screwed in across the 2 at ffl. Put these behind the corners 4 or 5m out the way. Better still if can be fixed to a boundary marker like fence or wall. Set out on these. You have to work methodically to get in the right place start with your longest most important wall. Come 90 of this for next wall then all starts to get pretty easy. I used to use 345 or trig to get the 90 but my laser now has 90 function. Still like to check diagonals. Bits of tape on the string lines help as a temporary marker for checking sizes

I've been thinking about this and its puzzling me. Howcome electric wires are ok running around or through joists and trusses, including big boy trimmers or triple girder trusses holding up massive loads. But if you have wires running around a non combustible rsj its deemed a risk?! Is it something to do with roof or floor allowed to collapse into the building but rsj and walls failing could cause building to collapse outwards?!

When overlapping dpm I've always gone 300mm and tape. You can but dpm tape at merchants which seems to be 4" wide and similar to electrical tape. Ive used that before. Also used good quality duct tape and not had problems. Ive always folded dpm over top of masonry as built not sure what the detail connecting to dpc is but double sided tape with dpc folded down and dpm coming up sounds good