Oz07

You're obviously a clever guy but if you seriously think a company are going to send out a plumber and sparks for half a day to switch a heat pump thats insane. Even giving them a full day each I'm not sure its likely. Anyone who does them is going to be that busy creaming money off new installs I can't see them swapping one out on day rate. Anyone who isn't experienced with them and banging them in all the time, then would you really want them swapping it out.

You dont float it they just use a dapple bar all over then spray some sealer on it to stop the water on top evaporating. It certainly takes a lot of labour out of the process. Can also flow quite far with a diy shute, no pump needed in a lot of cases.

Generally 57mm is the thickest standard joinery. You can use a 3deg cutter in a 1/2" router for a leading egde

Ha I know that feeling. I bet every self builder gets that. Sometimes even when you pay Somebody to do a job its worse than you could've done yourself.

I mean unless it was new boards you can't really straighten anything out with finish.

Looks great. What delayed the completion from the 2 yr guess?

I realised the same the other week when I put 150 vs 200mm cavity insulation into AI. The payback periods are insane.

I can see why you don't have any 🤣

How do you control the ventilation @SimonD? Any blog posts? Did @ToughButterCup ever bother fitting mvhr? I know there was a post about not wanting it.

Are the slower chargers better for the batteries even if no fans?

If the gradient is existing then its not your problem. Make sure everything you do upto your connection point is ti the regs then all will be fine. Normally bco would inspect on this I've never had water board come out.

Nobody will make you have mvhr for a score less than 3. There's no mechanism for someone to make you. I've had places before with sub 3 scores and no mechanical ventilation.

Look into the oil ones i think they are quieter for working in sensitive locations. I used to hate the racket the impacts made too but really are effective

Yes US leccy is a lot cheaper than ours. I think california is close to double the national US average leccy cost.

Tony tray no good?

The best thing about slurry you could pretty much add the wash out contents of the mixer to the slurry. Just use shovel if no mixed. Bit of elbow grease its a sloppy mix anyway. Don't add all your water at the start get it mixed first then keep adding water to get consistency you want.

Why hangers instead of building into the wall?

Generally valued per sq ft or m. Round my way approx 3500 m2. More important are the numbers though would it really make such little difference like 20 quid a year in energy?

I wouldn't be selling it as for my home but I just can't see the justification for the wider cavity. 50 year payback is insane. Also 3m2 is enough for a little ensuite or cloakroom, it adds up.

Yeh i think my last place had poor form factor it was a T shape and a bungalow. Also the cold bridge at truss to wall wasn't great as didn't go with eco trusses so insulation was quite tight here. Air tightness was great but mvhr was over ventilating I did diy commission then paid for someone reccomend by bpc to commission, they were clueless. Anyway forgetting windows for now because I'm just looking at whether its worth increasing insulation width. I don't think it is.

Was weighing up this choice recently leaning towards 200mm cavity. I've built last 2 houses at 150mm. I plumbed the numbers into Google AI just to see what it thought on a 8x11m box 2 storey house. If the info it gave me back is right then I'd probably stick at 150mm. I thought it wouldn't be too much dearer but I think things will add up. I do remember someone @Mr Punter? Saying it was best to internally insulate the additional 50mm to keep everything more standard, footing width, ties, closers, lintels etc. The energy savings just don't seem worth it 50+ year payback and if you are constrained on overall size of dwelling your losing 2 or 3% in net floorspace. Anyone else make this decision and why?

A 2x1 behind the skirting board. Otherwise cut flooring back and fit a bigger fillet. How far back is the joist?

Those hangers don't look bad to me from the picture. I'd be inclined to board over. Sometimes a flat bit of timber and a whack with a hammer flattens it out.

What are you having tape and fill or skim? Skimmed boards can be fitted with a few more lumps and bumps than the former

Stainless steel?