craig

If that's what you sent them, then the error is clearly at there side. Glass I would have expected to be delivered with the frame but it will likely be a separate glass supplier delivered to manufacturer or direct to site.

I’ll tell you exactly what has happened, tolerance has been deducted from frame size. Simple as that to be honest. Shit situation but did you receive and approve the final drawing sizes? They surely sent you them for approval? If you supplied them with specific information that the physical frame size was 1800mm and your structural opening would be 1820/1830. Then they have simply ****ed up. Hopefully you’ll have this in writing regarding structural opening/frame size? Don’t worry about glass, it will definitely be based on the supplied frame size 🤞🏻 You would be within your rights to request it be rectified or a solution found at their expense.

Trim the existing beading down in size, you’ll be fine doing that 👍

I personally recommend ME508 airtightness tape 150mm or 200mm, alternatively TP654 which is a 3-1 product is basically Compriband/PU foam with airtight layer interwoven. Little bit more expensive but worth the money.

Different systems, different requirements. Roma system, is 20mm narrower than the width of the window. It allows a check reveal but it does mean everything has to be spot on.

You would use check reveals, you need an unobstructed opening, so that the guide rails and the box can be attached. You could but they’d most likely present problems. However, hiding the rails and box is the whole idea behind it. Which is achieved with your external finishing.

Yes and available on both 😉 Edit: timescales are roughly 8 to 12 weeks, order dependant.

A couple of options exist. 1: Standard window and door system, in Oak. It would be supplied in 2 sections based on the picture and supplier dependant. The coupling detail will vary between suppliers and some may insist on strengthening the coupling. In addition the finish would be down to what they guarantee and you may find they aren't able to offer a clear finish externally. 2: Curtain walling, the external pressure plates are usually capped with aluminium but some will cap the aluminium with timber as well (curtain walling is not the cheapest option).

The problem you face is outward opening side hung/top hung windows are designed with these style hinges for safety primarily. If the wind caught them on standard t&t hinges they’d just flap and bang in the wind. It’s not that it can’t be done, egress hinges are just better for the operation.

Standard frame, packers (5mm) and then some beading around that. We do this kind of stuff often, customers just wanting glass to go into preformed openings with oak frame building's for example and not wanting the frames of the windows.

If the cost of express bi folds is eye watering, you’re in for a reality check.

If around 200/250KG they will but easier to put it on a dolly and roll it into position or use a telehandler externally. That’s “if” access inside is straight forward and or outside. Not only that, the amount of installers that have knackered backs as a result is immense. Safety first, even if they’re lifting things manually.

Telehandler and vacuum sucker, you should be fine with that tbh. Unless as you mention that accessibility is an issue. Double-check whether the windows are fitted from the inside or out.

What would you like to know? More than happy to help, it's one of the systems I supply.

No, this is a timber aluminium window, with a straight edge profile which sits directly in front of the stone cill upstand. No, but if I have time, I will do a quick drawing of this tomorrow for you. That should work fine. Either or. They both have similar stub cills Yes, you'll need to offer support at the bottom, the brackets alone are not enough.

Looks lovely, I do like a bit of traditional builds blending into the existing area. If you have a look around, you'll find suppliers that are able to help.

Simple adjustments will resolve all of these issues. One that can see the difference in handle heights and that it doesn't look right, without having the knowledge or understanding of how things should be but looking for help. So they are not making themselves look stupid when they ask the question upon their return. Glazing packers should be used to around the glass unit to toe and heel as has been mentioned then spaced out around the glass unit. Not doing so, causes potential issues further down the line. As for your door sitting proud, this is simply adjustment and the door is not sitting correct, the cams are not engaging into the keeps, which forces the door out as you see. Once this is fixed (easy fix), the issue will be gone.

Not on the kitemark but you may see information written on the spacer bar relating to the glass make-up, order number, position, coating etc. You'll need to look to find and if triple it could be either the inner or outer bar.

Option 2 is my preferred option but slightly further back onto the blockwork - best position thermally. If you can get this type of detail, option 1 but, it is too far out for my liking. This drip detail at the bottom negates the need for an external aluminium cill and utilises the stone cill for its "intended purpose" otherwise, you will need a 50mm aluminium stub cill like this. Option 2 with an aluminium cill detail (how it looks will depend on the window supplier chosen but unlikely to be "much" different).

An Oscar 600 offroad is about £650 a week ex VAT for the hire, a spider crane is roughly the same. An MRTA4/6 is about £350 per week ex VAT. There will also be a cost for the delivery and collection of about £150/£200 each way that will need to be factored into any cost calculations. The MRTA4 and the forklift/telehandler attachment is generally the best option and what we find tends to work best on most self builds. But you do need to be aware of the lifting table, as 600KG weight lift is 0.5m without boom extension, you need to take this into account and the height being lifted as well (especially if lifting from outside), as you may need the bigger 800 offroad or the 1000 plus or the 1400 but you need to be really aware with these as they are solid wheels and you'll need solid ground for them to work on. In addition the weight of these needs to be taken into account, as well as the window weight. It will require scaffolding amendments but these are generally used for the larger items, most other windows we will distribute to the relevant rooms and use the largest opening upstairs for example, to lift the entire pallet load to that area. As they are 1st-floor windows, which are usually packed together. On heavy items, which are generally quite large in width and height, we will also use the MRTA811

To be fair, that’s experience and knowledge but it wasn’t me or our team. That was a supply only project to the Orkneys 😉

Correct 😉

If you're using straps, you need to lift from the bottom and you don't need to open the door to do this. However, I do presume he means a lifting strap around the bottom for 2 men to assist with the lift.

You should be able to take the sliding sash off, reducing the weight by 50%, we normally use a one wheel bogey too transport through the house. Alternative option is using an Oscar 600 off road but you can only use the fixed pane for lifting. A telehandler with fork attachment and vacuum sucker is your best bet if you can navigate around the outside of the house.

Looks like the coupling profile is missing on the inside and out, in the groove you would normally have a hardwood coupling profile. The section below is obviously two fixed windows but it's no different to coupling doors to fixed windows etc. You would normally screw through the frame, just to secure and pull it closer together but most will look to make these invisible by hiding them behind the keeps. Alternative is plugs or caps, caps being last resort.