Bonner

Thanks @tonyshouse, apologies I should have said the lintels are already in. Take your point about thermal bridging so will see if they can replaced. If not, is it acceptable for the wall plate to sit directly on a lintel without a course of masonry?

Is this a standard construction detail? The builder is saying it is necessary to put masonry on the lintel before the wall plate but that will raise the eaves and ridge height. If masonry is not needed should he just bed the wall plate on the lintel with mortar?

I got a quote from GBS for Alu-clad and timber, they tried to push me away from Alu-clad for environmental reasons. Thought that was a weak argument considering the quantity of material and not consistent with what they are saying now.

That’s interesting, sounds like it’s carbon neutral ? ... on that note, I’ll get my coat ....

I am planning to use 125 & 150mm rigid duct so would be interested in any excess pipe ? Thought about Y connectors and 45deg runs but threading through posi-joists at an angle doesn’t look feasible.

I am in the same boat (without a rudder!), can’t decide how much to invest in windows. I like alu-clad systems but concerned by cost, long lead times and horror stories about fitting. I am inclined towards a local aluminium fabricator who will supply and install ... and be within arms reach to remedy any faults if needed. Can’t make a recommendation but I have done quite a bit of due diligence on them, PM me if you want yet another option ...

No idea is stupid, not considering something is ... however what you are proposing could do more damage than good. As long as the roof and guttering is sound, the walls should not get soaked. Also, pointing helps to shed rain, is that in good condition? Are you sure the damp at basement level is not rising? What is the ground level outside compared the inside? Any signs of excessively wet ground (drainage issues)? Avoid waterproofing the brick wall outside, it is likely to trap moisture and potentially blow the brick face. This maybe what the paint has done. Are there any similar aged buildings nearby? They could give a clue if it is a common or isolated issue.

These are normally assembled with a 10 ton hydraulic press. Any site method would be unlikely to achieve the same structural strength. As mentioned, consult a structural engineer. Another joint, ie. screw/bolted plates may be more suitable. Or for non-structural repairs, a big hammer ...

Cheers @JOE187, did you install the Itho RH sensors https://www.ventilationland.co.uk/product/25036/itho-daalderop-rft-rh-sensor-surface-mounted-incl-control-battery-penlight-aa-04-00046.html or something else? I would prefer a single integrated or in ducting sensor as the cost would mount up for 4 of these (3x bathrooms and a kitchen).

All I can say is it has worked well for 10 years so far ... other suggestions are welcome I’m sure. The point is you don’t need any special adhesives to bed a shower tray

I am very tempted at this price https://www.ventilationland.co.uk/product/27743/itho-daalderop-hru-350-eco-unit-hr-rft-high-rise-350m-h.html Looking for simplicity, high flow rate (280sq.m house) and good efficiency. Noting that I would need to add RH sensors to boost, is these anything else I should be considering? Anyone got experience of this, or similar units (believe they are also badged Heatrae Sadia)?

Firstly, I do not have experience of this specific tray, however I have fitted similar. They do not need ‘sticking down’ to the floor so an adhesive is not necessary and to be avoiding IMO. What you need is a bed to support the weight evenly across the surface. Sand and cement would probably work but I have used decorators caulk which is cheap and effective (4 tubes on a 1200 tray IIRC). Note that these trays are designed to work with risers kits so should have sufficient strength to support their weight on 8 legs (unless you are supposed to fill under the tray after levelling up the legs? I haven’t used a riser kit)

+1 for white cement. My new build brick house was specified with lime mortar by the architect. Brickies made a sample with white cement, looks just like lime mortar I have used before on a period property.

You could always install a lift to the cloakroom, although that would mean sacrificing one of the shoe cupboards ?

Hello and welcome. Good luck finding a plot, that was a long journey for us! With hindsight, I would looked further afield and alternatives like refurb or rebuilds.

Looks like a immersion heater key, assuming it is made of steel?

Sorry meant I am having similar frames, Origin windows but not fitted yet. Don’t think you can see the thermal breaks in situ, only on a x-section sample. I think they do feel cold because metal conducts heat away from your hand so efficiently.

I have similar frames, it looks like these are the thermal breaks. Pretty sure nobody makes unbroken aluminium frames in this country.

Sterilising the system will kill bacteria and other organisms but it won’t necessarily remove any debris. That is a bit specialised IMO, a good flush through with mains water will clean the system quite adequately. Used to be needed more in full copper pipe systems due to swarf and flux, which is corrosive. Modern systems should be a lot cleaner.

‘Reassuringly expensive’ said the owner at one point! And did Kevin say good value for money?! End result is spectacular but can’t help feeling they could have achieved the same for a lot less money.

I think Charlie Luxton installed Internorm windows and blinds ... https://youtu.be/WmFZbm-1fH8

Do tell, where did you find such a bargain Ebay, FB market?

As above it would be better in two pieces. I am surprised you could get a 12m beam in one piece, and get it delivered.

I prefer internal but that’s an awkward drop so put it in the corner outside (B)

Looking good but where’s the cat slide gone?