Alexphd1

Can't comment yet on gaulhaufer but have them going in next week. Will report back.

This thread is very interesting, we are installing the posi joist tomorrow. Quick question what length is the span?

The burner unit is 1200 wide with the actual burner approx 1000 wide. 2l of fuel lasted approx 1h20m on full pelt so not exactly cheap. Didn't really notice a smell while burning but when slid the slider to kill the flame there was a strong smell. Overall really impressed with it but hoping with decent sized rooms and mvhr the smell will be fine. If not then will have a look around at more refined fuel. Cost was approx 400. The show room with no smell was in Denmark, maybe they where running slightly different fuel mix.

I have my nose almost touching the flames and can't smell anything but the windows are not in yet so effectivly its still outside. When I was in the showroom I didn't smell anything with multiple burners on.

We just bought 2l of fuel from national diy shed will report back on how long it lasts. We used a plumbers torch to lite and was very easy, would imagine a match would be just as affective.

Very happy with bio ethanol ribbon burner. Maybe a solution to some people on here. No extra ventilation or flue required and very little heat produced.

Labour is supply and demand depending on area unfortunately trades are pretty expensive around here! I would argue material is cheaper South than north (aberdeenshire), we don't have competition locally with build merchants. We pay extra for shipping north! Generally on ebay/gumtree more selection further south.

Not sure if any use but our concrete lorry came with a 7m conveyor at the back. Made a small slab very easy.

I think ragg987 sums it up pretty spot on and i fail to see why I would sub out the design of the M&E to seperate company other than who's doing the install.

6k for designing a mechanical and electrical system?????

I have used the nudara 150mm inserts. We started with 60mm (there or there abouts) insulation = 300mm cavity = 60mm insulation then ww added 150mm insert so we have 210mm insulation 150mm cavity (concrete) 60mm insulation. For using the 100mm insert you start with a narrower block with 250mm cavity (concrete). We are a planning to building a second house with this system but using a different nudara block.

316

@JamesP very useful information. At the moment we are trying to decide between stainless and zinc on a diy basis.

Robbens is one of few companies who actually manufacturer their own pipe and is top notch. Didn't realise they also done Mvhr?

We did a diy raft slab so can't comment on MBC, but I have only read positive comments. Pex-al-pex does have a air barrier. There is not a correct pipe spacing, all depends on each job but 200mm is normal. My opinion is under no circumstance have a join of underfloor heating pipe in the slab, you can buy pipes in 500m coils if needed!! Laying ufh pipes for the first time is one of those jobs that seem daunting but when finished you will wonder why you worried about it! Be very cautious of complete heating/ufh suppliers....

Sorry i feel the 2% that went up shit creek a contract would have made no difference, one case we went through the court for a few £k bill as soon as we won, the guy declared personnel bankruptcy.... cant get blood out of a stone!!

+1 for diamond never used a TCT (had to Google it??). Only material we stayed clear of was granite (Aberdeen grey granite) we needed a bolt on water cooled drill, nice bits of kit but expensive. We have the same makita dry core drill just over ten years but have never used the hammer function think we paid about £190 probably still worth £50 on eBay! Think they are about £250 now.

We hit 1x 12mm rebar and it went through it fine. We then used a concrete grinding disc on a handheld grinder to square of the hole for the beam. We also cored a hole below dpm in concrete block, that was a nightmare due to block being damp?

hilti dd130?

Just put of curiosity what drill would you guys been hiring?

150mm.

We used a 127mm standard dry core drill with a makita 8406 drill in 150mm ICF concrete. We have the same kit as this http://www.britishbathroomcompany.co.uk/rothenberger-89020-roth-12pce-dry-diamond-core-drill-kit?gclid=Cj0KCQiAl8rQBRDrARIsAEW_To98Y6s2EJ_ndTutB7A6vVOsNbFB7PrJLB04YVPCS4kNQSL1__9Ys0QaAmFbEALw_wcB . If you have many holes may be worth looking at a wet system unfortunately I have no experience of these.

Nudara. A dry core drill went through it fine.

Can't do any harm, although it's not the end of the world if you need to core through the ICF at a later date. We have needed to core twice already? first for extra steel I beam for 1st floor and 2nd for cables through to snug. Which ICF did you choose?

I think its a good idea, we run in 2x extra ducts out of the garage slab for adding stuff in.