markharro

I was thinking of setting it up for motion detection only and I think that some at least of the Unifi cameras can be further restricted to record only on "human" motion detect. No USB port - just a slot for a Micro SD card!

Thanks that's very helpful. Our house will be smaller as its two storey and we wont have any metal foil issues etc so I was hoping that the UDR + maybe one more AP might do it. As you say I can power the AP from the UDR PoE sockets and actually @Dan F the UDR also runs Unifi Protect with 128 MB internal storage for video. Not sure how that will cope storing footage from a doorbell cam and possibly 2 other external cameras and prob 1 internal but it accepts additional micro SC storage cards and a quick look shows these are available up to at least 1TB so again hopefully that might work.

Thanks @Dan F No at the moment I have a copper BT landline so its the BT Master socket > Hub2 with the Hub2 providing wifi and I assume modem duties but then I have to admit to not really fully understanding what a modem or or router for that matter. Next week I am getting the FFTP installed so I understand that will bypass the BT Master socket for an ONT box. Is that not the modem? I read this blog which suggests you can do what I hope to do at least with another Unifi product the dream machine pro https://www.techielass.com/directly-connect-your-ubiquiti-dream-machine-pro-to-bt-fibre/ I think the UDR basically is a lower powered DM Pro with wifi added.

This is what I would rather avoid if its technically possible to allow me to take this HUB2 box and its power needs out of the picture. When I asked the same question on the Plusnet forum I was told that I could get rid of the Hub2 as long as I configured the UDR with my Plusnet "PPPoe username" and password?

Understood.....so in the context of me wiring the cabling and terminating the plugs etc I can use anything from CAT5 up and assuming I wire the connections properly the cable will be good for plain vanilla ethernet and also PoE? One other thing I don't understand fully - I will need a big central switch to accommodate all the feeds to rooms etc. I have a stock of CAT5/6/6A cable. I was intending to use it for different feeds so CAT5 for things that just need a slow connection up to CAT6A where I have longer cable runs. Can I plug a mixture of CAT5/6/6A cables into a switch without issues? The issue I am wondering about is whether somehow the whole network then gets throttled back to the CAT5 speed etc? Or does it not work that way? thanks

Don't you just use a standard ethernet cable? I too am thinking of one of these Dream Routers (UDR). I have Plusnet broadband and am shortly upgrading to their full fibre to the house product. They have to instal an "ONT" box in your house for this. My question is - can I connect the UDR direct to the ONT or is it ONT > Plusnet router (Hub2) > UDR? If the latter do I have to make any changes to the plusnet router eg turn off its wifi? Anything else? Is this all easy to do? thanks PS do standard ethernet CAT6 and 6A cables work with PoE or do you need a special cable for that?

Don't get me wrong - I regard brexit as the apocalypse too.....just not expressing myself clearly.

Hi @willbish this looks like a good compact rack solution. Can I ask what products these are and where you purchased? Is that a switch that you have connected the purple CAT cables into by punching the wires in? Do you then connect one wire into the front panel from the router to get internet through to all the purple cables? Is the switch providing power over ethernet?

Do you know that Unifi offer their own video doorbell - indeed two versions! The pro version appears cable of both power and data over ethernet - https://eu.store.ui.com/collections/unifi-protect-cameras/products/g4-doorbell-pro Looks like a very good piece of kit if you can get hold of it as you can record the video locally without paying Ring/google etc £x per month On a separate topic has anyone ordered from the Unify EU store? What are the typical delivery charges and do you get hit by any of the crazy brexit import duties? thanks

Its meant to be both and its to be certified as well so this is puzzling me!!

Hi Ian the initial figures are from the architect and therefore PHPP. I am afraid I cant answer your second question. The ASHP installer is offering either a 250 or 300 litre tank - I am inclined to go for 300l Yes we hope to instal PV. We have 3phase so if the budget will stretch I am thinking about a maxed out 11kW instal of PV with divert to the tank and at some point a battery. I am not sure how much financial sense this all makes but I am encouraged by Octopus' recent announcement of a new tariff that pays 15p per kw for export. We also have an EV if that is relevant and will be fitting UF heating on the ground floor.

It will be 1 and 1/2 storey and 230m2 internal floor area if that helps.

I need to agree this with the installer in the next month or so. We are building a 4 bed passive house. the current predicted performance is - Heating demand kWh/(m²a) 19 Heating load W/m² 10 Vaillant offer 3.5 and 5kw pumps. Looking for views on which option to go with? thanks.

Thanks - looks like the White Book is a good resource for soundproofing etc. For what its worth on at least a couple of passivhaus projects I have been to see resilient bars were used for the GF ceilings for soundproofing. Seems to be an easy and hopefully cheap option. On a separate point when our house is built later this year we will need the best solution to soundproof the "TV room" that will be an offshoot from our main living space. The issue is that we will have a wide sliding pocket door between the two spaces - 1.5m from memory when closed. I think its too wide to use a generic door panel but in any event I want the best acoustic option. Can anyone suggest a good option for what we could use?

Basic point I know but what is the "White Book"? Building Regs or something else?

Interesting to read this given that I was planning the same kit as the OP. I had asked Paul to requote adding the Comfopost from memory at the height of last summer I think. My hazy recollection of the logic was to give some cooling ability during the hottest weather. This would then add to running the Vaillant ASHP we plan to get on reverse. Having read this thread I am also wondering if it is worth the extra cost and hassle!?

We had a 2 year battle as well with the first application turned down on pathetic, vague and sketchy grounds. I had no budget for a planning consultant but second time around and via a subtle "complaint" and some psychology we prevailed. But a whole load of stress and time I won't get back. I'm convinced that without the professional skills I have in my day job I would still be at it. I shouldn't have needed to deploy those however.

Hi @Mr Punter - I dont suppose you know where Scottish regs are on this? thanks

I'm trying to understand our 3phase eventual cabling setup. Right now 3phase is on site in a box by the boundary. We have a newly installed smart meter put in as well. When this 3phase supply was installed our outbuildings were connected up to the box and now have power. When our new house is built later this year we plan to take power for the house and associated equipment ie 22kW EV charger and ASHP from the box via a conduit into the new utility room. What I am trying to understand is how this is done with 3phase? eg will I be using one of the phases right now to power the outbuildings? Does this mean that I only have 2 phases left for the main house and everything else? If so, does this mean 2 cables will be brought into the house? How best to plan the wiring in very general overview? Would a 22kW EV charger normally be dedicated a whole single phase? Will any decent electrician know how best to split the 3 phases between the various demands? For info we are building a passivehaus. As well as the EV charger and ASHP there will be the standard MVHR. If budget allows we also would like to fit solar PV and potentially storage. thanks

I'm with Octopus in Scotland and (finally) got 3phase smart meter installed after 6 months of trying with succession of b*lls-ups along the way. Just waiting now to see if it connects properly!

Hi @AdamSee can I check which length of track you were using for the cross cut? I think Makita do 1400mm and 1500mm lengths? Were you using the 1400mm? Keen to know as I need to buy some track soon. Thanks

Anyone have any opinion on this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08XZPHKTS/ref=twister_B08ZX24XHL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 ooks like by far the cheapest with M class filtration!

Hi and sorry to hear about this. A verbal contract should be binding in a situation like this I would have thought. With verbal contracts the problem is establishing what was agreed. In the first instance it would be useful if you could press them in writing to say if they do at least accept that they did reach an oral agreement with you and, if so, in what terms.

hi @peterw do you have this kit? How do you find it? I have a Makita 18V circular saw and thinking it may be a good way to avoid the cost of a plunge saw?

Hi @divorcingjack how did you get on sealing the floor? We are thinking of the same when we come to lay our slab but to use the Proseal W just after the powerfloat is done. Did you end up using this product? If so how did it go?