markharro

Thanks - I had no idea these existed. So in summary if I just wanted to stream from eg iplayer or Netflix in up to 4k a CAT6 or 6A cable will do fine? If we were talking uncompressed 4 or 8k presumably that would need to come into the house via a fibre-optic cable using some sort of pay TV service/box. I don't use these so can the box be put in a central place and then multiple cable feeds be taken using HDMI to remote TVs? So this is where using the AOC cables would come in?

Thanks @George can you point me to any guidance on additives to use depending on conditions etc?

I have a connected question. We will be laying an insulated slab intending to use the powerfloated concrete as our final floor finish. What is best practise on cutting expansion joints? We will have UFH 50mm under the slab so that is one issue and of course no rooms/doorways.

We also have bought a reduced Bora hob from a show-room and were hoping to flush mount it. We collected it and watched as it was removed from its flush mount in the showroom and saw something like a metal perimeter ledge somehow bonded or fixed into the worktop a few mm below the surface that the hob sat into. What I haven't yet investigated is whether something like this could be sourced and fitted as a DIY project?

Likewise we used a Neff for over a year prior to the old house demo and no issues and that with me not being overly careful half the time. Now bought a ex-demo Bora for the new house - if that ever gets out of the ground - so Im hoping that Bora dont use some sort of inferior glass!

Its ok its the same company doing slab and the SIP instal!

One of the issues is that the company laying the slab are based in England and won't be happy if they had to wait to do the pour until the temp relented. Yes we have thought about that but Its a SIP build and after the frame is up we will be doing a lot of the finishing ourselves so we will only have ourselves to blame if we damage the surface. Yes we are putting in UFH - it goes in 50mm below the concrete surface level.

Annoyingly we are too late to pour our insulated slab now before probably January at the earliest and I face a dilemma. We intend to use the powerfloated surface as our final floor surface so any cracks etc during curing as going to be an issue. We are in Edinburgh so Jan and Feb are the worst months to be contemplating this but everything moves so so slowly in this game that's where we are. I know you can put in admixtures to be able to pour in colder weather but I understand that this can increase the risk of cracks etc. So what do we do? Take a big risk or delay any further progress yet again until the spring proper? thanks

Any chance you could post a link to that please?

I'm afraid this is beyond me technically. I expect this is to do with router capability? I'm only interested atm in the wiring infrastructure. I have no idea what the source of the 8K will be....I guess I am thinking that in the future it may be pure fibre into the house to a new router and then distributed from that or will a 5G modem router be enough? Thats not the point. I'm only interested in what to plan for for wiring from a central spot in the house to possible TV locations. thanks.

Ralph that's very helpful thanks. So assuming we had no runs above 55 metres in the house there is zero to be gained from installing CAT6A? On the 8k, is it worth putting in fibre? Can you do that DIY? What is CAT7 - would that not cope with 8K?

Just thinking ahead. If I am hard wiring to rooms where there will be TVs will CAT6 or CAT6A be ok for 8K TV? thanks

I am being quoted £1000 for Compacfoam 200 for our passive slab by the installer - quantities in the attached image. Can anyone advise whether its likely I would make much saving on the price by sourcing from GBS myself? Or would one of these other products be cheaper and the same spec? thanks

Thanks...can I check though do you need a special PoE variant of CATx cable on does standard stuff work? I understand the toothbrush now I think but could you not just instal a socket with a USB outlet?

What type of toothbrush can charge this way? And presumably then building regs allow you to instal ethernet sockets in bathrooms? Another basic question. Do you need a special ethernet cable to use PoE or does standard CAT6 or 6A do the job? thanks

What type of toothbrush can charge this way? And presumably then building regs allow you to instal ethernet sockets in bathrooms? Another basic question. Do you need a special ethernet cable to use PoE or does standard CAT6 or 6A do the job? thanks

What type of toothbrush can charge this way? And presumably then building regs allow you to instal ethernet sockets in bathrooms? Another basic question. Do you need a special ethernet cable to use PoE or does standard CAT6 or 6A do the job? thanks

Hi @AliGmaybe you can help me on a related theme. I have two things I am wrestling with atm. I have scheduled a lead replacement new water instal from SW. The engineer said it would be 25mm bore. It looks like the supply pipe is on the opposite side of the road to us. My pal (a BP engineer) mentioned that he would normally expect a 28mm or 32mm bore for decent water pressure. That's the first issue. How do I know what to specify? The second thing is that I am deciding on ducting under our slab. We want an outdoor tap on the house wall (about 7/8 metres I guess away from where the water will enter the utility room). Options for this are to tee it from the supply outside at our boundary and take it completely outdoors to avoid any plumbing running through the house or tee off at the utility room. That would then need a hole through our external wall to the tap. We want to have another outdoor tap this time in the back garden. I had thought that the best thing for this was a tee from the utility room and down through the slab and then right across the width of the slab underneath to take us to the back garden. But another way would be to tee off where the supply comes in off the street in the front garden and then take the connection round a long loop right around the perimeter of the house to the back garden. I have asked our architect about what is best with all of this but he says these are services issues that he cant properly comment on!

Thanks - all good points - we have been in a house with a power floated floor as the final finish and were quite happy with it but I do get that a lot will depend on the amount of care taken at the time.

This is the point. Its the concrete itself - powerfloated rather than polished but same difference.

Thanks again but that would prob not be precise enough for my fussy partner. The idea is that we have a sharp straight edge at the concrete to butt the tray against. Its this detailing that is causing me the problem

Hi @JohnMo thanks for this. I had thought make the plug slightly smaller. If larger how do you deal with the gap once you put the tray in? That and the fact that it will likely be a bit of a ragged mess. I thought smaller and then grind the perimeter to exact size once hardened to match tray size. And I still dont understand how you make the interface between the slab and the tray watertight?

I am trying to coordinate the detailing for our slab pour to ideally accommodate fitting a rimless and flush tray - thinking of using this https://www.my-bette.com/en/products/further-product-topics/betteair The slab will be 150mm thick and will be our final surface so no screed on top. We cant have screed as we have UFH pipes at 50mm below the surface and the company doing this insist on this minimum 50mm cover from the main concrete pour. So my issue is I can just about see how we could use formwork to get a recess in the slab during the concrete pour for the tray but how do we make the interface between the slab and tray waterproof and also how do we get a neat interface line? thanks

I am considering what I need too. I have enquired with my architect on whether he can provide a certificate but he has asked me what I need and I dont know what to tell him,. I know what I need the cert to provide me and that is access to mainstream lenders to re-mortgage after the build is over. I saw a ref on another thread on the form to "My build was inspected by an architect whom issued architects certificates PCCs which are accepted by the main lenders. " my architect says he doesnt know what PCC stands for. Can anyone assist and for the avoidance of doubt I am in Scotland? thanks

I am considering what I need too. I have enquired with my architect on whether he can provide a certificate but he has asked me what I need and I dont know what to tell him,. I know what I need the cert to provide me and that is access to mainstream lenders to re-mortgage after the build is over. I saw a ref on another thread on the form to "My build was inspected by an architect whom issued architects certificates PCCs which are accepted by the main lenders. " my architect says he doesnt know what PCC stands for. Can anyone assist and for the avoidance of doubt I am in Scotland? thanks