markharro

What type of toothbrush can charge this way? And presumably then building regs allow you to instal ethernet sockets in bathrooms? Another basic question. Do you need a special ethernet cable to use PoE or does standard CAT6 or 6A do the job? thanks

What type of toothbrush can charge this way? And presumably then building regs allow you to instal ethernet sockets in bathrooms? Another basic question. Do you need a special ethernet cable to use PoE or does standard CAT6 or 6A do the job? thanks

What type of toothbrush can charge this way? And presumably then building regs allow you to instal ethernet sockets in bathrooms? Another basic question. Do you need a special ethernet cable to use PoE or does standard CAT6 or 6A do the job? thanks

Hi @AliGmaybe you can help me on a related theme. I have two things I am wrestling with atm. I have scheduled a lead replacement new water instal from SW. The engineer said it would be 25mm bore. It looks like the supply pipe is on the opposite side of the road to us. My pal (a BP engineer) mentioned that he would normally expect a 28mm or 32mm bore for decent water pressure. That's the first issue. How do I know what to specify? The second thing is that I am deciding on ducting under our slab. We want an outdoor tap on the house wall (about 7/8 metres I guess away from where the water will enter the utility room). Options for this are to tee it from the supply outside at our boundary and take it completely outdoors to avoid any plumbing running through the house or tee off at the utility room. That would then need a hole through our external wall to the tap. We want to have another outdoor tap this time in the back garden. I had thought that the best thing for this was a tee from the utility room and down through the slab and then right across the width of the slab underneath to take us to the back garden. But another way would be to tee off where the supply comes in off the street in the front garden and then take the connection round a long loop right around the perimeter of the house to the back garden. I have asked our architect about what is best with all of this but he says these are services issues that he cant properly comment on!

Thanks - all good points - we have been in a house with a power floated floor as the final finish and were quite happy with it but I do get that a lot will depend on the amount of care taken at the time.

This is the point. Its the concrete itself - powerfloated rather than polished but same difference.

Thanks again but that would prob not be precise enough for my fussy partner. The idea is that we have a sharp straight edge at the concrete to butt the tray against. Its this detailing that is causing me the problem

Hi @JohnMo thanks for this. I had thought make the plug slightly smaller. If larger how do you deal with the gap once you put the tray in? That and the fact that it will likely be a bit of a ragged mess. I thought smaller and then grind the perimeter to exact size once hardened to match tray size. And I still dont understand how you make the interface between the slab and the tray watertight?

I am trying to coordinate the detailing for our slab pour to ideally accommodate fitting a rimless and flush tray - thinking of using this https://www.my-bette.com/en/products/further-product-topics/betteair The slab will be 150mm thick and will be our final surface so no screed on top. We cant have screed as we have UFH pipes at 50mm below the surface and the company doing this insist on this minimum 50mm cover from the main concrete pour. So my issue is I can just about see how we could use formwork to get a recess in the slab during the concrete pour for the tray but how do we make the interface between the slab and tray waterproof and also how do we get a neat interface line? thanks

I am considering what I need too. I have enquired with my architect on whether he can provide a certificate but he has asked me what I need and I dont know what to tell him,. I know what I need the cert to provide me and that is access to mainstream lenders to re-mortgage after the build is over. I saw a ref on another thread on the form to "My build was inspected by an architect whom issued architects certificates PCCs which are accepted by the main lenders. " my architect says he doesnt know what PCC stands for. Can anyone assist and for the avoidance of doubt I am in Scotland? thanks

I am considering what I need too. I have enquired with my architect on whether he can provide a certificate but he has asked me what I need and I dont know what to tell him,. I know what I need the cert to provide me and that is access to mainstream lenders to re-mortgage after the build is over. I saw a ref on another thread on the form to "My build was inspected by an architect whom issued architects certificates PCCs which are accepted by the main lenders. " my architect says he doesnt know what PCC stands for. Can anyone assist and for the avoidance of doubt I am in Scotland? thanks

Hi @markocosic was that offer directed to me? If so thanks but my issue would be that I would lack the tech knowledge to make use of this I think unless there was an easy way to set it up once the ASHP has been installed?

Hi I read about this on the (Scottish) loan application form. Our installer has described it as "a device fitted to the ASHP which tallies up the total heat generated from the ASHP unit. This allows you to more easily track the energy produced, energy consumed and efficiency of the ASHP. Its not something we typically install and does not affect the performance of the ASHP, simply just for monitoring. £500 would cover parts and labour for installation" What are the pros and cons over getting one of these meters fitted? thanks

This thread is a bit old now but I am also contending with the same issues - planning to use open jointed cladding. My starting point is this useful article - https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/post/ask-expert-what-type-breather-membrane-should-i-use-behind-wall-cladding UV membrane on the wall panels that cross battens then cladding. I had wondered about further membrane/mesh over the battens before the cladding but advice from Russwood is that even mesh can cause higher drying times for the cladding. My architect has raised concerns with insects etc but elsewhere I have read this is maybe not worth worrying about?!

Just got a quote from Protek for a warranty - around £3300. How much would you typically pay a supervising architect for a certificate in comparison?

We are at groundworks stage of our self-build with an Ecology mortgage granted. I had dismissed the idea of a structural warranty as Ecology do not require this. However I think I may be missing something. Once we get to completion we will almost certainly want to re-mortgage to a standard mortgage. Will the lack of a structural warranty mean that no conventional lender would look at us at that stage? Are Build-zone the best for these warranties? thanks

We have this exact issue right now. Walls down have exposed the cavity insulation tiny polystyrene balls. They are all over the place. We have bagged the bigger clumps but the stuff disintegrates as you touch it. I am trying to work out how I can clear it before the demo guys return on Monday. Anyone got any ideas? It doesnt really hoover up and scooping it by hand is just not feasible!

Hi @Dan F could you explain what a FCU is? Does it link into a conventional MVHR or ASHP system or is it some sort of standalone device? thanks

Anyone encountered this unit that Paul Heat recovery have just introduced me to = https://www.jablotronlt.com/en/futura/ Ive never heard of it before. Seems to have some sort of cooling function

Hi so to summarise what I have taken from this thread - using an ASHP on cooling mode can be effective to cool your slab on the GF at least. Upstairs you can connect the the ASHP somehow into your MVHR to provide some cooling to the air? Can someone confirm the exact bit of kit needed for the latter so I can ask my MVHR supplier about it? thanks

Hi I am sure I have read somewhere that it is essential or at least highly recommended to have a water tank that is capable of having immersion heaters fitted at the top and the bottom to offload extra generation from solar PV? I have just had my second response from a potential ASHP installer. The first insisted that they can only fit one make of tank that was only compatible with one immersion only and the second installer has just emailed me to respond to my query about immersions by saying "There is one immersion heater located in the middle of the tank. I don’t believe you would find an unvented heat pump cylinder with 2 immersion heaters.(Safety thing)" surely this is rubbish? Is it not possible that this is simply the installer's laziness and them just wanting to use a tank that they are familiar with? Thanks

Thanks for that. Looking at what I have leftover in my shed I see I must have used CAT6 to run a connection into it. I dont think I have previously used CAT6A. Is it even thicker etc than the CAT6? Is there much difference in price. Given that we plan to stay in our house for the foreseeable future which could be many decades my thinking is that I should wire CAT6A but is this needed for all purposes? Maybe only audiovisual? Or if you mix and match 5/6/6A in a network does everything come down to 5 speed?

Can anyone advise a good supplier for CAT6/6A cable, coaxial, speaker cable? I am also keen to source a decent crimper/cut for pass thru ethernet cables and the pass through plastic bits as well. The crimpers I have seen so far all seem much much more £ than the basic ones. thanks

Thanks @alig that's a good suggestion. However on closer inspection it turns out I dont have a problem after all ... the plastic twist handle actually comes off so essentially is the "key". Photos make it clear I think...

I am getting a new 3phase supplied installed in a couple of weeks. The cable is going into a box that my electrician has mounted on my shed wall. I am getting the meter put in this box and ultimately the feed to the new house when it is up. The box (Schneider) does not have a lockable handle which surprised me. I thought I read somewhere that it needed to be lockable? I am in Scotland if that is relevant.