markharro

I am at the same stage as @SuperJohnG looking to buy correct battens and fit myself. The STS boards I am using has guidance and states 25 x 60mm battens but notes that a 50mm cavity is needed in Scotland. So that means a 50 x 60 batten which I can't find anywhere online as a treated batten. I had been planning to use 50 x 50 but not sure the 50mm width would be enough to butt 2 boards and provide for the 3-5 mm gap I need to leave between boards. Can you get 50 x 60 treated battens? Am I going to have to consider butting two 50x50 together? thanks

We got some nice Douglas Fir from Logie Timber last year.

I have just managed to persuade our BCO that cavity barriers pointless and not needed behind our open timber cladding for what it is worth. We are in Scotland.

We had a condition to our planning requiring an "archaeology" report. I sighed thinking that's another £xxxx to find. So I asked what they wanted and it turned out it was a combo of detailed photos of our old house pre-demolition and a narration of the history of the plot etc. So I asked if we could prepare such a report ourselves and the City Archaeologist agreed. My partner takes an interest in local history so had already done most of the research. I have a good quality camera and tripod. We made our own surveyor's ranging rod by painting a broomstick red and white and set to work. It took a lot of work and hours collating but we were commended for our work by the CA and it was satisfying to save a shedload of cash that would otherwise have gone down the drain.

Anyone have any advice on this? Need to drive 100mm stainless steel screw through softwood battens then into roof rafters. Guessing it may be best to pilot hole first?

Thanks @ProDave Is a BBA cert needed for building control or is it just something optional. Baumit give the impression of being a well established company and I have seen many references to their products being used so its disappointing to hear of your issues.

We are being quoted an extra £10 m2 to use the Baumit NanoporTop. The house is next to a moderately busy road. Any advice on whether it is worth paying the extra? thanks

Great thanks Dave - not bought the boxes yet so good to know I can use these if I fit deep boxes - thanks,.

I have been given about a dozen or so of these. I am keen to use them temporarily to save some cash and then maybe upgrade later. But the plates are a different design to the standard ones and I would be keen to know if I need some sort of special back box or do they just fit a standard one? ie I wont use them if they need a special back box. thanks

As per the title any advice welcome thanks,

Thanks got them!

Does anyone have this? thanks

Thanks - I have to say though that its a little confusing - I dont think the videos are showing the slimline 8cm cistern version. It looks from this page https://catalog.geberit.co.uk/en-GB/Geberit-Duofix-element-for-wall-hung-WC,-114-cm,-with-Sigma-concealed-cistern-8-cm/PRO_2712522.html that the waste pipe centre is 50mm back from the face of the studs so central in a 100mm stud? Does anyone though have a phone number for Geberit UK so I can call them to confirm?

I am thinking of this very same Geberit Duofix for wall hung pan with 8cm cistern as that's all the room we have. We also have an issue that the wall is very short - there will be very little space to the left where we have another wall joining. Do these frames have any fittings that require you to use eg a screwdriver from the left or right of the frame or do the fittings go back into the wall and maybe down into the concrete floor? Our 110mm waste comes up from the floor so presumably we would need to have this totally central in the wall space to make sure it was hidden when each side of the wall is sheeted?

Thanks @AliG thats a good point about the cavity - I think I will see if I can persuade BC on that. How many mm of gap between your cladding boards do you have out of interest?

Hi @AliG I am just at the stage now of having to check this tedious fire barrier stuff - like you it seems we are having open timber cladding and it seems totally pointless. Our vertical battens are 45mm deep and horizontals 22mm giving 67mm in total. Is that similar to you? What product did you end up using - was it the Envirograf ? Also how did you deal with the Envirograf being blue I think and the Tenmat red when, you like, we are looking for something black to camouflage with our black membrane and battens etc? thanks. PS did you ask Building Control if you could just dispense with the stuff for the wall sections where you are using open cladding? Same with the insect mesh - both seem pointless and just more money down the drain.

what do you use for coolant?

Yes I'd like to know that too!

I have done the same @Dan F now so will have the option to fit temp probes down the line. Is there any cheap and easy to set up digital display I can get to wire the probes to so I can observe the temps visually?

As someone who has three phase brought into our building site currently powering our outbuildings on Octopus via a smart meter I've been reading this thread with some interest. Once our house is built over the summer I have just committed to installing about 6.5kw of PV on the roof with the space to increase this to the maximum 11kw in the future. I agonised over a battery but decided against it as they just seem to be incredibly expensive compared to a car battery for example. We will be installing an ASHP and have an electric car although its charging requirements are minimal. So I wondered whether this Flux tariff would work for us without a battery? Or should I reconsider a battery?

Thanks - will these have as much holding power as annular nails of the same length?

Hi @Mr Punter are these nails glue coated ie is the red colour glue?

Another vote for MBC - they are bringing our frame next week!

Just said 4mm diameter screws with no mention of whether they are to be SS or otherwise. I have a box of smooth shank 90mm nailgun nails so had hoped to use those. I know they are not annular but I had read somewhere that the tips have a glue covering that heats up on insertion to glue to the wood fibres. No idea if thats correct? If I do use screws I have read guidance elsewhere thats states 6mm! Also what length do I need for a 50mm batten. And I am totally confused by all the various designs of single and double threads and other more subtle variations.

What do you mean "adverse conditions" - I assume you mean poorly installed? What should I look out for to quality check the install?