markharro

Hi @dpmiller I get the distilled water but I dont understand your second sentence. Do you mean if you use distilled water it causes tarnishing?

I have built up a collection of pre-used sockets and switches etc and am now thinking about the best way to give them a spruce up - any reason not to use an ultrasonic cleaner for this purpose?

Yes anyway moving on can anyone provide any further comments on my original points - 1 Spacers for the first row of tiles. Is it realistic to think that I can just pull these out after the adhesive has set? If not how are they hidden? 3 Is there any specific gap between tiles for grouting for these large format tiles? 4 can anyone comment on these es - https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/rubi-delta-levelling-system-kit--1mm--03956 - in particular what does the 1mm in brackets refer to as other kits from this brand offer 1.5mm/2mm etc! Is this measurement the width of the gap between tiles? 5 I have a notched trowel somewhere for the adhesive but should I be using a particular depth of notch? I guess this is linked to the depth of adhesive to use......how do I work that out? 6 Luckily we wont have to cut many tiles but I will a few. Could I use my track saw with a diamond blade and dry cut and get an acceptable result? 7 If so the saw is designed for a 165mm diameter blade. Would I need this exact size or would a slightly smaller one work? 9 We are planning on a shower niche and this would require an L or U shaped cut out of some tiles - this wouldn't be possible with the track saw so how would this be achieved? 10 Any other relevant tips?

remember these are wall tiles! and a year of self building starting with 18mm ply on the roof and now 25kg buckets of render and hefty fermacell boards has all served to build up the muscles! Back to the tile adhesive the Ardex tech support guy recommended rapid set I think for the reason that it would help to avoid the tiles sagging but I guess with spacers at the bottom and just doing the bottom row first that wouldnt be an issue?

Bit of a long trek for me from Edinburgh

I saw that but sadly you are at the other end of the country for me!

anyone offer any critique on this?

Thanks - this indeed was very helpful - looks like the answer is a resounding don't bother. Hopefully someone might be interested in buying my surplus EPS now - currently advertised on the Marketplace

Looks good @hendriQ how did you do the ceiling?

ANother question on sound insulation. We have quite a few sheets of EPS100 and 300 insulation that was used for the tray for our slab left over. They are 100mm thick. WOuld these work specifically as sound insulation and if so how would they perform compared to say a 45 density rockwool batt?

I have tiled before but I need to up my skills as we are planning to use 610 x 1220mm 12mm thick marble tiles in our shower-room. The plan is to mount on Hardie backer board in portrait format so that 2 vertically will span floor to ceiling. I have my head around doing the initial boarding now and have got some useful info from the supplier for the tiles eg use white rapid setting tile adhesive. There is also a need to seal the surface before grouting etc. The main gaps in my knowledge are as follows - 1 I need a gap I think at floor level (our concrete slab) - 3mm or so? I assume I just mount the tiles on spacers to give the gap? Will the spacers come out after the adhesive has set? If not how are they hidden? 2 Should I fix the lower row of tiles first and wait until they are bombproof and then fix the upper tier above so that they get proper support from the lower level? 3 Is there any specific gap between tiles for grouting for these large format tiles? 4 My last tiling was years ago using the basic "X" plastic spacers. Now I see things are more sophisticated with these types - https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/rubi-delta-levelling-system-kit--1mm--03956 - which appear to give you set grout gaps but also allow you to level the faces of the tiles. This particular example appears to be ok for the 12mm tiles we plan to use but what does the 1mm in brackets refer to as other kits from this brand offer 1.5mm/2mm etc! Is this measurement the width of the gap between tiles? 5 I have a notched trowel somewhere for the adhesive but should I be using a particular depth of notch? I guess this is linked to the depth of adhesive to use......how do I work that out? 6 Luckily we wont have to cut many tiles but I will a few. Could I use my track saw with a diamond blade and dry cut and get an acceptable result? 7 If so the saw is designed for a 165mm diameter blade. Would I need this exact size or would a slightly smaller one work? 8 Will I cope with my 1200mm level or should I buy something longer? 9 We are planning on a shower niche and this would require an L or U shaped cut out of some tiles - this wouldn't be possible with the track saw so how would this be achieved? 10 Any other relevant tips? Many thanks.

Hi @joth just revisiting this now that I am doing my wiring. Can I ask how you used these? Did you terminate the CAT6A into a wall faceplate like this - https://www.kenable.co.uk/en/networking/network-accessories/network-face-plates-modules/9323-shielded-rj45-face-plate-cat6a-toolless-single-port-with-keystones-009323-5055781241260.html ? And then connect a short length of ethernet cable surface mounted into the PoE to USBC adaptor? Or did you hide the adaptor in the wall and run a short USB cable from it to a USB female wallplate? This adaptor seems to be for USB A. Can you get something similar for USB C? I also have a plan to run PoE to allow an Apple Homepod mini to be used in the bathroom. The issue here is it needs a 20W supply at 9V I think. Any similar adaptor that I could use for this? I found this on a previous search which I think would work but its pretty expensive.....would much rather have something around the £20 level - https://www.networkwebcams.co.uk/microchip-pd-usb-dp60-poe-to-usb-c-adapter/

Its only between 50cm - 1m as a replacement for a standard power lead. It not getting boarded in anywhere and I will terminate in a standard power plug into a socket.

Hi I am making up a power cable with a special right angle connector and just want to make sure that this cable will be beefy enough to cope? I am assuming so as its a left over from our electrician wiring the house but best to check?

That stone looks nice - and expensive or did you manage to get a deal! We have a very similar space to outfit so interested in your ideas. Where did you source the brackets?

Hi @Nickfromwales there seem to be lots of variants of this Sikaflex stuff. You couldnt possibly post a link to the actual white one you tend to use? thanks

I am trying to work out how to attempt my own shower-room project so have been interested to read these comments. Atm I am thinking of using Hardie backer board as the tile backer board with their tape and screws as it seems an easy to comprehend solution. Our merchant has suggested STS construction board as an alternative which seems similar except it appears to rely on their adhesive between sheets (https://nomoreply.co.uk/installation-essentials/mega-strength-construction-adhesive/ ) and no tape which doesn't seem so confidence inducing!? On top we are thinking of using large format marble tiles. The floor is a (MBC) insulated slab and it was poured with a 900 x 900 shuttered recess with the idea that we will flush mount the tray with the slab - the powerfloated slab being our final floor finish. I will be calling on our plumber to help me put in the tray as I cant really get my head around it and the other area of concern is how to tank the interface between the walls and the shower-tray and also the tiled walls where they meet the slab more generally? We want to create an (almost wet room) but its challenging because we are not going to add any tiles or screed etc to the concrete slab. As I understand the tanking products you would normally use a combo of liquid waterproofing "paint" and special tape to "tank"? So a few questions - if either the Hardie or STS board is used and done in accordance with the respective manufacturer's procedures do I still need the tanking paint at all? Or maybe best to use it on the 3 shower walls at least? Next question is how to I waterproof the wall floor junction and wall/tray junction? Do I use the right angled tape and try to minimise the depth of tape stuck to the floor and tray to around the 12mm thickness of the marble tiles so that its hidden when the tiles are on? And to get back to the niche issue - I want to create one in the shower and am attracted to the Schluter product you picture. Did you consider the version they sell that has an integrated LED? With the one you used is it easy enough to instal? Does it come with instructions? Do you need to use any of what seem to be numerous other Schluter products to make it waterproof or can you use generic products? Any other tips or critique of my plans....perhaps from @Nickfromwales ? thanks

hi no i ditched the comfopost idea in the end as didnt think it was going to be worthwhile

Im in a similar position and remember checking with Octopus that their meter does this and they said yes. We have 3phase into the house with an ASHP to be installed and 6kw of solar but with the potential to expand to 11kw. We have a 3 phase inverter I think. We are getting a Zappi with the higher 22kw charge rate but I am a bit clueless about the Viallant heat pump. Is there such a thing as a 3phase ASHP and should I be specifying thats what I need? If so why?

I just have - and used it high up a wall. As others have said its very dusty to cut but it is pleasingly robust - and heavy! Not tried one of my oversize screws yet - will experiment once I am down to wastage scraps. Yes I understand the logic behind skirting boards but just don't like them. Am going to try the fermacell with a 10mm gap at bottom as shadow gap I think.

Can no one comment on whether Fermacell is robust enough to use right down to our concrete floor without a skirting board to get a simple clean look? Also I have another question. We are using 12mm ply on the bottom half of a wall as a feature secured with quite big screws - again as a feature. The screws are 6mm diameter I think and have concentric ridges under the head designed to allow you to adjust the plane of the board so you can easily match up boards. I intend to use Fermacell over the ply and want to use the same screws to maintain the "look". Will this cause any issues ie could I destroy the edges of the Fermacell with these large screws? Would it be ok if I predrilled a hole first and maybe also a taper at the surface? thanks

I never considered that. I have brought some ducts flush with the timber frame and other flush with the cement board/render. The flush one are where we will have timber cladding. I have not capped the ducts yet but will soon. Internally I am using Proclima gaskets and also externally in the main. Not yet sure about insulating - I certainly wont be using foam as I hate it so currently thinking I may stuff in some rockwool. I am thinking of using butyl tape to squeeze into external ends as a final airtightness measure.

Hi @zzPaulzz I drilled holes then threaded duct and then secured the duct with airtight tape at each end. For the rendered areas in some place I extended the duct through the cement board. In other places I drew the wires and took them to their final external locations prior to fixing the cement board. I'd recommend a lot of thought about the number of holes you need - I just about got it bang on...maybe one more might have been helpful

Hi @Timedout I am interested to know if you think Fermacell is robust enough to use right down to our concrete floor without a skirting board to get a simple clean look? thanks

Thanks @Dillsue and I think that this also reflects the point in the Heatgeek video which is that if you dont insulate the pipes going from the fan unit to the hot water tank then in the summer you are heating the house over this pipe length when you may well not want to do this!