markharro

Thanks @IanR for this explanation. I have checked and the laptop has the settings you show in the window. I have tried again plugging in to port 1 but still nothing. I rebooted the laptop but actually I dont think I turned off the wifi on it - would that make a difference?

Thanks @IanR but this is beyond my understanding. Yes the DR was preconfigured to DHCP from memory and I had to override that to select PPPoE. Is DHCP an alternative setting to PPPoE? If so does that mean that if I selected PPPoE during the setup of the DR I would need to set the laptop to PPPoE as well for it to "see" the router? If so how do I do that? I have already tried factory resetting the DMR numerous times by holding down the tiny button in its base but when I have done this it does not seem to be changing the LED light at all. It flashes white at all times and I think it is meant to go solid white? during a reset and that doesn't happen. On the ports is port 1 at the top or is it at the bottom just above the WAN port? thanks

Dave thanks - there was a good reason to use the phone app - my new laptop does not have a socket for an ethernet cable. I have now dug out my old laptop from storage and tried hard wiring it into the DR and going to 192.168.1.1 which I read should allow you to access a router but nothing comes up when you do this. Btw I think the DR must have connected to broadband at some point in the process because I think it downloaded new firmware I am pretty sure. It was when it started trying to connect via wifi and a big wifi symbol showed up on my phone and it failed to connect that the issues started and Ive been unable to advance.

I used Plusnet as well with their Hub2 router over a copper service previously. I recently got FTTP installed and have been trying to get broadband set up with a Dream Router I bought second hand connected directly to the ONT box. I have been using the Unifi App on my iphone to do this. At first I was getting nowhere then I found a Youtube video that said I had to select PPPoE during the setup and also add my Plusnet username and password. I managed to do that and it seemed to be progressing then it showed the DR was trying to connect to my iphone by Wifi but it failed doing this. So now I am in this crazy position where for some reason I cant access the same setup procedure I went through to try and change any settings and I cant find any way to delete the DR from the account and try again and I cant find any number to call Unifi for advice. Its a complete joke I thought this equipment was meant to be easy to use. Can anyone offer any pointers on what I am meant to do because I am close to grabbing a lump hammer and smashing this plastic piece of c$£p to smithereens!

I read about this issue on a passive house blog. We will have our system put in in a few months and the flow and return pipes will go through a ground floor bedroom ceiling. Will there be any noise issues? If so how to mitigate? I think you can get special pipe fittings with rubber gaskets? Would those be worthwhile? thanks

Ive never heard of Fogstar before but on checking their website the price for 15kWh of batteries appears to be £3747 - that would be over £3000 net of VAT. Where do you get the £2500 from? Also would you not need an inverter too if plugging in to an existing solar PV setup?

Hi @Kernow We have some leftover that's for sale if of interest

I have a question linked to this....firstly @ragg987 how do you get these Silentgliss tracks hidden in the plasterboard - do they supply some sort of profile that you screw the track to that then gets plastered over on the ceiling face? Secondly could you use this as a solution for a shower curtain?

I totally get that but there is a bit more to it - the spray function on the tap for washing veg is also sub-optimal. So what would be good is to hear from someone with plumbing experience on mixing a 10mm hot and 15mm cold.

That's the obvious solution I agree but its a passive house and I am trying to do my bit for the planet......don't mind a 15mm cold but I would like to keep the 10mm hot

We have our first fix pipes in now and I have rigged up a temp sink. It is fed by 10mm hot and cold pipes but at present only the cold is running. The flow rate is pretty slow and it takes quite a bit of time to eg fill a kettle. Our plumber however said its best to match the cold diameter with the hot and we want a 10mm hot to minimise heat wastage and because we will be fitting a boiling water tap anyway. So what happens if we swap the 10mm cold for a 15mm cold and keep the 10mm hot? I am assuming this can be done? What would be the consequences? thanks

Hi @sean1933 did you use this EzyJamb product? I was considering it as well but didnt realise it was £500 per door kit!

Hi @ragg987 we also have MBC and I am thinking of using fermacell with 75mm medium density rockwool. Are you completely happy or would you have changed anything? What do you mean by sealed air gaps?

the 250 Pro? Can I ask @nod where you got that for £320 as the prices I see online are quite a lot higher.

Dont blame me - it was the timber supplier's recommendation! But actually in a way it is less OCD as we have ended up not bothering too much about getting the screws level because of the camouflage

Slightly random addition to this thread but I am currently trying to work out the lighting for our utility room. The room is about 5m x 1.5m but it has a very high ceiling (3.5m). I "asked" Chat GPT and got this - Certainly! Let's adjust the calculation for a room with a reduced area of 8 square meters, a height of 3.5 meters, and aiming for an illuminance level of 500 lux: Room Volume (cubic meters)=Room Area (square meters)×Height (meters)Room Volume (cubic meters)=Room Area (square meters)×Height (meters) Room Volume (cubic meters)=8 square meters×3.5 meters=28 cubic metersRoom Volume (cubic meters)=8square meters×3.5meters=28cubic meters Now, use the illuminance formula to calculate the required lumens: Lumens=Illuminance (lux)×Room Volume (cubic meters)Lumens=Illuminance (lux)×Room Volume (cubic meters) Lumens=500 lux×28 cubic meters=14,000 lumensLumens=500lux×28cubic meters=14,000lumens So, for a room with a reduced area of 8 square meters, a height of 3.5 meters, and aiming for an illuminance level of 500 lux, you would need approximately 14,000 lumens of light. Adjustments can be made based on specific room characteristics and lighting preferences. 14,000 lumens sound like a lot so I thought I would ask what some of the experts on this thread thought? If its relevant I am planning to fit 3 flush ceiling lights (probably LED panels) then we will have a couple of directional wall lights lower down. thanks

Our MBC frame is lined with Propassiv I think but then battened to take lining boards so there shouldn't be any need to screw into the Propassiv. I am trying out using Fermacell but I may regret it!

That was my first thought too! I suspect its not so much the plugs' prongs scraping the metal but rather the wiring terminals inside the sockets that could be the issue?

IPA = Isopropyl Alcohol?

Thanks @Mike thats helpful. 2 Should I fix the lower row of tiles first and wait until they are bombproof and then fix the upper tier above so that they get proper support from the lower level? Thinking more about this will this work because if I do it this way how do I use levelling spacers between the bottom and top rows to ensure that the top row ends up with the face level with the bottom? Is it maybe better to use this Ardex fibre reinforced adhesive - https://ardex.co.uk/products/tile-adhesives/microtec-cement-based-fibre-reinforced-tile-adhesives/ and fit bottom and top rows at the same time? 4 My last tiling was years ago using the basic "X" plastic spacers. Now I see things are more sophisticated with these types - https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/rubi-delta-levelling-system-kit--1mm--03956 - which appear to give you set grout gaps but also allow you to level the faces of the tiles. This particular example appears to be ok for the 12mm tiles we plan to use but what does the 1mm in brackets refer to as other kits from this brand offer 1.5mm/2mm etc! Is this measurement the width of the gap between tiles? Can anyone comment on this? 6 Luckily we wont have to cut many tiles but I will a few. Could I use my track saw with a diamond blade and dry cut and get an acceptable result? Noted on the wet saw advice but how do you do right angled cuts eg for a niche? My point 9 below 9 We are planning on a shower niche and this would require an L or U shaped cut out of some tiles - this wouldn't be possible with the track saw so how would this be achieved?

Thanks @dpmiller but given that these sockets are already old and tarnished would it be a problem for my intended use ie to clean the dust and grime from the sockets and initially at least restore the copper metal surface? My thinking was to remove the sockets and spray WD40 on the metal parts to displace the water as they dried. Is that not realistic?

Ive not finished the list yet......compound cuts with the mitre saw; special SS screws with black heads; oh and my partner's sub mm tolerances - well she has started to relent a little now thankfully!

Thanks - yes black stained vertical battens; then planed the horizontal batten top to give a fall for rain to drip off; then those stained black; then Douglas Fir cladding stained, measured, cut and fitted. The mitre saw is paying for itself. Its taking a huge amount of time but the end result is now emerging.

This is just what we are doing at the moment. Not sure we are going the cheapest route mind you but pleased with how its turning out....... Top tip - you need the correct membrane at the back designed for open cladding. In the pro clima range its this one - https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/solitex-fronta-quattro

Im assuming that the metal inside the typical socket is either copper or brass or similar. Would a 20 minute immersion in distilled water followed by drying really be an issue?