markharro

Thanks @JohnMo I have had a couple of quotes from plumbers so far but no detail at all on how they propose to run the circuits. With you manifold solution does this add any complexity/cost other than than cost of the manifolds which I assume is not much? We have 2 showerrooms and a bathroom and planning only to fit out 1 of the showerrooms initially so this might be a good solution to that. What is the relevance of running 15mm pipes? Long runs - our utility room where the water comes into the house is pretty central - that said its about 12m as the crow files to our kitchen sink/dishwater - and quite a bit longer with all the pipe turns etc. There are no other really long runs however. Can you explain what "hot water circulation" is? thanks @Iceverge can you help me deconstruct this.... the MDPE brings the water into the house to the main stopcock? whats a "control block"? "radial" - does that mean separate pipes to each location needing a cold supply? How does a "standard" circuit compare - does that have one main pipe in a circuit with Ts off to each room? "UVC" - is that the hot water tank? So 10mm pipe only for hot water supplied to far off locations - is the logic that this gets the water there fast and minimises wasted heat loss from a smaller volume in the pipe? So 15mm would be the norm for shorter hot water feeds? Is that enough throughput for showers? thanks

Just about to engage a plumber for this. He is going to use Hep2o which seems well regarded but other than that are there any pointers eg recommended bore of pipe? Do you routinely insulate hot and cold feeds? I think there is also a choice between radial and standard but I don't really understand the tech pros and cons? Thanks

Hi @saveasteading I have thought about painting but I dont think Blackjack would be compatible with the EPS we not to cover/hide?

This is prob what we will do too to cover our EPS base - what are you planning for fixings?

Any chance you could share where you have seen the good Grohe pricing? thanks

Its a passive house insulated slab poured into a mould of EPS formwork

I have a small section of vertical cladding inset into a render wall - the render build up total is 63mm. Our cladding is 22 so that leaves 40mm or so for the battens! I am thinking 19 x 50 for the verticals and 22 x 50 for the horizontals. Any issue with this for sheltered area of around 7-8 m2?

I have a similar question. On parts of our wall we will have open vertical cladding above a lower section of render. The top half of the wall has black waterproof UV resistant membrane fitted so that rain passing through the gaps in the cladding will drain down without soaking the timber frame. The issue is how to stop this water then draining down behind the cement boards that will take the render? I guess having permanent moisture behind this boards will be sub-optimal? Do we need some sort of metal cill to deflect the water out and over the face of the render? thanks

Really struggling to find an answer to this. Is 50mm below the slab height correct? Or 100mm? thanks

Hi @Nickfromwales how do you manage this? We are building a PH and I am about to fix the battens for the cement board which will then be rendered. We need some penetrations from inside the house to outside for EV charger and ASHP flow and return and maybe some cameras. How to do these after the render is done?

can anyone offer any advice on this - need to find answers soon so I can progress. thanks

I am at the same stage as @SuperJohnG looking to buy correct battens and fit myself. The STS boards I am using has guidance and states 25 x 60mm battens but notes that a 50mm cavity is needed in Scotland. So that means a 50 x 60 batten which I can't find anywhere online as a treated batten. I had been planning to use 50 x 50 but not sure the 50mm width would be enough to butt 2 boards and provide for the 3-5 mm gap I need to leave between boards. Can you get 50 x 60 treated battens? Am I going to have to consider butting two 50x50 together? thanks

We got some nice Douglas Fir from Logie Timber last year.

I have just managed to persuade our BCO that cavity barriers pointless and not needed behind our open timber cladding for what it is worth. We are in Scotland.

We had a condition to our planning requiring an "archaeology" report. I sighed thinking that's another £xxxx to find. So I asked what they wanted and it turned out it was a combo of detailed photos of our old house pre-demolition and a narration of the history of the plot etc. So I asked if we could prepare such a report ourselves and the City Archaeologist agreed. My partner takes an interest in local history so had already done most of the research. I have a good quality camera and tripod. We made our own surveyor's ranging rod by painting a broomstick red and white and set to work. It took a lot of work and hours collating but we were commended for our work by the CA and it was satisfying to save a shedload of cash that would otherwise have gone down the drain.

Anyone have any advice on this? Need to drive 100mm stainless steel screw through softwood battens then into roof rafters. Guessing it may be best to pilot hole first?

Thanks @ProDave Is a BBA cert needed for building control or is it just something optional. Baumit give the impression of being a well established company and I have seen many references to their products being used so its disappointing to hear of your issues.

We are being quoted an extra £10 m2 to use the Baumit NanoporTop. The house is next to a moderately busy road. Any advice on whether it is worth paying the extra? thanks

Great thanks Dave - not bought the boxes yet so good to know I can use these if I fit deep boxes - thanks,.

I have been given about a dozen or so of these. I am keen to use them temporarily to save some cash and then maybe upgrade later. But the plates are a different design to the standard ones and I would be keen to know if I need some sort of special back box or do they just fit a standard one? ie I wont use them if they need a special back box. thanks

As per the title any advice welcome thanks,

Thanks got them!

Does anyone have this? thanks

Thanks - I have to say though that its a little confusing - I dont think the videos are showing the slimline 8cm cistern version. It looks from this page https://catalog.geberit.co.uk/en-GB/Geberit-Duofix-element-for-wall-hung-WC,-114-cm,-with-Sigma-concealed-cistern-8-cm/PRO_2712522.html that the waste pipe centre is 50mm back from the face of the studs so central in a 100mm stud? Does anyone though have a phone number for Geberit UK so I can call them to confirm?

I am thinking of this very same Geberit Duofix for wall hung pan with 8cm cistern as that's all the room we have. We also have an issue that the wall is very short - there will be very little space to the left where we have another wall joining. Do these frames have any fittings that require you to use eg a screwdriver from the left or right of the frame or do the fittings go back into the wall and maybe down into the concrete floor? Our 110mm waste comes up from the floor so presumably we would need to have this totally central in the wall space to make sure it was hidden when each side of the wall is sheeted?