markharro

I have an odd issue - I recently terminated one of my longest cables that runs half the house length and then into the drive to feed an eventual PoE camera. One end is plugged into the POE switch and as I have yet to buy the camera I am installing I have plugged in a couple of things to test the connection - an AP and another camera. Both are powered using POE. All the kit is Ubiquiti. When I plug them in they light up as expected but then they dont show up properly in the App. The camera doesnt show footage and the AP doesnt show as connected. WHen I use both bit of hardware elsewhere in the house they do work. I have tested the cable with a tester and it shows all 8 lights flashing in order for a good test so the cable and terminations looks good. WHat could the issue be - its CAT6 cable and I thought that was good for long runs and its not even that this is a really massive cable run? thanks

Hi @SelfBuildSmurf no we didnt in the end. Quite a few emails back and forwards and I got the impression they were a decent company but our need for a passive house standard door meant I had lots of questions. They tried their best to answer these but ultimately I needed a more certain solution. We ended up with an Inotherm (Spitfire branded) door sourced via https://www.ekco.co.uk/front-door/spitfire-doors/s-500-beautifuly-engineered-aluminum-doors/ Its a really good bit of kit. The only negative is that the supplier was clueless about passive house and even when I emailed Inotherm direct (in Slovenia) they claimed that they couldnt release some of the standard PH data to me as it was a "trade secret". Totally bonkers as they advertise that their "no. 1 in Europe" doors are suitable for passivehouse. I meant literally hours spent emails the supplier and PH certifier back and forwards and made what should have been an easy (and expensive) purchase difficult.

I have used fermacell in our utility room. Just leaving it exposed here but going to experiment using it elsewhere with the fine surface finish

Two cables to each location? In case one faults for some reason and you have backup?

Yes it was done last year. It worked well. We cut no line in the end and so far I think have been lucky as no evidence of cracking. I will look out some photos

Thanks. I think the flow and return pipes are 28mm - is there not a standard size? Also is there not a recognised standard thickness for the outdoor insulation? If not how can you know if what the installer has fitted is thick enough? I think taping is a good idea but why should I have to do this on at £13k instal?

Thanks @Dillsue I wouldnt know what the correct thickness should be so have attached photos to show what has been used. I think the insulation is the proper outdoor stuff to the best of my knowledge....my concerns are the gaps and length of pipe run

I'm mainly going on what someone said above about taping all the joins to make sure no rain can enter. There are lots of areas where that can happen.

Thanks again @sharpener and @Peter M I have attached some more photos of the way the pipes have been insulated. Even to my fairly untrained eye I am not impressed with it. There are splits and while some joints appear to be glued its not done very well. Also the tape used in some placing in clearly no good - maybe not surprising as the plumber had left and the electrician ended up doing those bits. I am pretty sure I would have done a far better job myself and it would be good to hear what people think? Its costing a small fortune for this ASHP instal (although I will get some money back form the grant when it is done) so I think I have a right to expect an exemplary job.

Thanks @sharpener I wonder if you could also have a look at the pipe runs on the photo I attach. The installer told me that it needs to be doubled back like this to allow easy maintenance into the future. My understanding is that it is best to minimise the outdoor pipe runs and was disappointed to see this.

We have our installer here and about half way through the instal. In the first place I wonder if anyone could help me with any basic things I should be asking the installer so I know the heat pump is configured optimally? The second thing is that they have tested it now. We only have one plumbing run being a cold tap at the sink that is currently working. For some reason water from this was coming through warm. Why could this be? Will probably have a few more things to ask but these are the most pressing. thanks.

I have these which I would be happy to do a deal on.....

Interesting thanks....is the system designed simply to work with tiles? Do you have a link @Russdl to where you get these things. How do they stay put when you are setting out?

Hi @Russdl how do these pedestals work? Surely the tiles don't just sit on top with a gap below? We have groundworkers coming this week to do a few things including making up the ground to our sliding door for a flush finish. We are not placing a drain but I am still confused how the final finish is done. Part of our issue is that we still haven't decided what the capping will be - probably stone rather than tile but one issue is that stone would be too thick to butt level with our threshold!

I like your slatted door in that photo @Kelvin can I ask where you sourced that from?

Thats interesting - how does that work?

I am sitting in my straw bale garden office atm. Its awesome. I am sure your house will be great.

Yes got them and use them for other things but for a stud length you would need a few dozen!

Yes exactly this

Can anyone recommend a source...I think it needs to be flat smooth cardboard - not corrugated. This looks like it might work but I would need to cut strips from the roll - https://www.tiger-supplies.co.uk/Catalogue/site-equipment/temporary-protection/Floor-Protection/Floor-Card--Heavy-Duty---1M-x-50M-116-054

I could offer you some but its Partel tape but it looks like @moonshine has you sorted. Separately, I could do with maybe around 10m or so of plain black airtightness tape - ideally Tescon Invis but any black would do. Also looking to avoid the delivery ££ on a full roll

I am planning to use clear CT1

How are you getting on with @sean1933 I really need to work out what I am doing with our doors etc. You mentioned teh Ezyjamb was £500 - did that include a door blank?

To renew this thread we are shortly to have our HW cylinder installed and connected up to the flow and return pipes which will then be getting insulated - question: is there a standard thickness/type of foam insulation to use around the pipes internally? thanks

We've gone for "nice" ply (great BandQ find) and fermacell for ours.....