dpmiller

enquiring minds, and all that.

Rendered over with EML sounds like a plan... The portions I'm looking at are part of the main TF so 140mm with all the insulation package inside, so it really is just choosing a means of standing the render clear of the frame a distance to match the blockwork. They aren't even massive areas, perhaps 1.5m2 each panel. I do have one "normal" dormer to deal with at the back but that'll be easier to detail as there's nothing it needs to align with.

@Mr Punter I'm intrigued- why the Celotex? Seems like an expensive way just to make up depth and as all the specc'ed insulation is on the inside of the frame would this not require reconsideration of condensation risk? I presume that any airgaps in this built panel don't have to align with the TF-block cavity? On the render side of things, as we're undecided as to whether it'll be a simple sand and cement affair or a monocouche would it be safest to site the renderboard back behind the block a bit with EML on?

any thoughts here please?

try this chap: http://www.psdesign-architecture.com/services.html

You might laugh @lizzie but hot glue is used routinely by the guys that do paintless dent repairs on cars- search for "glue pull". The glue is easily removed afterwards with a spray of alcohol before rolling it off in one piece. No harm is done to the finish.

blob of hot glue?

Well not really, but this is the closest section I can think of to put the Q... Above our porch- and in a similar fashion at the rear of the house- we've small triangular areas that need building up as spandrel panels to continue a return block wall. Crappy photo of the scenario below, the blockwork will rise as a vertical edge to the left. So I've 150mm of depth to fill (100mm block + 50mm cavity). The outside will be half inch renderboard but what else? 140mm treated CLS straight onto the TF, or is some counterbatten a Good Idea? Studs are all 400ctrs max...

where is the boundary?

My preference wouldn't have a Riello burner... I'm mightily impressed with our Turkington/ Turco condenser but i don't think you's go far wrong with any of the usual suspects- Grant/Warmflow/ Firebird etc. We've got all these close to home so tend not to see so much WB or HRM this side of the wee pond. /except for the special models that WB made for NI "refurb" installs, long after condensers were mandatory...

yes.

how high up the pipe? same as the level in the header tank.

same thng really.

Grand here actually, they haven't lost much time and the blocks are sitting up and sheltered from any rain but getting a nice blow dry. Oh yes, knew there was something else- the new Keylite windows arrived. Seems the Polar Solar models are actually only to hit the market in the new year (even tho they've been in the price list for quite some time) so we got an early delivery. Waiting for the system chimneys to arrive imminently and all the sills are ordered and in production.

And so time passes. Most of the windows went in on Tuesday. There are a couple of booboos to sort, a unit damaged, a couple not to spec, and an umm... tolerancing issue with a couple of the openings. All to be addressed over the next few days hopefully. Blockwork continues. They're approaching GF lintels now and were awaiting a visit from the BCO to confirm what heads he'd let us away with.

One caveat on the single-phase motor- starting current is high and too much voltage drop can fry the motor so the rest of the garage wiring needs to be to-spec. A 3Hp motor will take between 10 and 13A full load but it's starting current could be double or even treble that.

yup.

Surely it's the mains into the CW tank that's the problem? Stopcock not fully open/ crap in the float valve?

Quite fancy a single post lift myself. The portable low/mid-rise variety are great for tyres and brakes but I reckon I'd prefer to be standing for the real underneath stuff. With the pallet-truck singlepost jobbies you can shunt them out of the way when not in use or even (door height allowing) wheel them outside too.

generally there's a recess round the edge to set 8x3s into.

try a cable tie or two instead of the jubilee clips.

so someone else does the dirty work then they sign it off?

Paraffin wax changes state at a nice low temp and is used by the bucketful hot and liquid in Histo labs. Nothing to be afraid of...

I like the paraffin wax option.

"What's the problem? I can’t find my address on Postcode Finder Tell us more: Address attached to site in 2010 or thereabouts. Currently building new residence."