dpmiller

there's no regulations per se, but the stove manufacturer will likely have a spec for diameter, maximum length and number of bends. It needs to terminate at the stove to attach to the spigot on it, and the section nearest the stove would need to be suitably heat-resistant (like any other items in the same area). It can take air from anywhere outside really but you need to consider water ingress and the likelyhood of obstruction/ blockage.

If the unit has a door, would a different colour of shelf really be that offensive? If no door, could you find a contrasting colour?

would it not work better if the blocks were lifted and the middle beam in the photo moved leftwards so the "landscape" blocks were to the right of it?

buffering through a gravity cylinder? I wouldn't, even just gravity DHW would be enough to put me off... I did it the other way round as a TS to give boiler stove redundancy. No legionells risk either as no stored volume. Check out for example- https://copperindustries.co.uk/products/maxipod/ although many other manufacturers can offer the same now too. I had a bespoke one made up by World Heat

would the two capped-off valves that just need a flexi fitted between them not be a good start?

need to slacken the right nut to let the fitting rotate, tighten the brass fitting, then nip the nut up again

that awkward age between 0 and grownup, lol. 17, first year of the A-levels. ADD with history of getting bored with stuff quickly so sensible budget, say £200-ish.

yep a few of his mates have them already so he's not starting from zero. I think he's more interested in the IT side than actually printing too many things, going from design through CAD and into slicing etc. So is the open/ closed source thing an issue re. Bambu?

jumping on in here. I know nothing of this stuff, but big son is making noises about wanting one and Christmas is coming. He's doing ICT, Technology, and Engineering at A-level and is pretty handy with CAD. What's good and entry-ish level these days?

the constructional hearth is not the finished visible surface.

Are the flow and return from the boiler the right way round at the valve?

I've never seen a trench block...

Yep i got a set of forks for our 2.7t machine. Darned handy but awkward to use, and on a smaller machine the weight of the forks does eat into the lifting capacity a bit. / the brickies thought it was great for getting the blocks up a lift of scaff...

self-tapping and self-drilling are two different things...

what about cold rolled steel sections rather than timber?

shame you weren't close enough to this family member to have helped her earlier?

I've a set of 1m SDS+ bits that work well, even in the DeWalt cordless SDS

I'd say you'd need a good 7-10cfm for either of those and if you're considering spraying remember that there might be an air-fed mask in the equation. If you're short on space this is a good option: https://www.sgs-engineering.com/stanley-fatmax-b350-10-90v as that's the same motor and pump the "normal" belt drive machines use

All piston compressors are noisy. Box it or outdoor enclosure is all you can do for that... The oilfree vertical you've got aint 10cfm, maybe calculated but no way in the real world. The piston leaks like a sieve on them. Plus IIRC that model is a brush motor and revs it's n*ts off. ^ that one in the piccy above is the same unit that Lidl sell occasionally and is a real sweetie for the money, the pump is overbuilt compared to SIPs and Sealeys of the same class required cfm depends on the type of tool, and whether the demand is continuous or intermittent. Eg for a rattle gun, hose size is more important than pump capacity- it needs a good jag of air to break a bolt loose which even a small tank will contain, but if there's a bottleneck at a hose or fitting well... Tell us what tools they are and how you use them

any chance there's a simple NRV under the allen screw that incoming charge pressure bypasses?

how many pipes go to the buffer/ is there an additional pump associated with it?

leave it all to go stone cold. Start it up and monitor the hot pipe. If it immediately heats but then cools back to warm, then that's low gas for sure.

they do a single valve at 137€ too, but that's not dear really

here https://shop.yoviro.com/produkte/magnetventile/1032/luftverteilerleiste-3-fach-mit-anschlusstuellen?number=00020020

trying to get hold of someone in HEB would be a direction I'd think? Don't seem to have a website tho