markc

Put the details you know, you can’t sign as the installer but you could scribble not known etc. that would look like a signature.

Yes it dries very quickly and you can re coat as soon as the colour changes, you could do one thick coat but then you just get heavy runs and sagging.

Naarrr, that’s easy … they are all helical retaining units

As an apprentice sparky in a steelworks we were told a Bulb if it has a simple filament, Lamp if it is an assembly or has an igniter built into the “Bulb”.

If the holes are in the centre then the loss of material does not affect the beam as this area is not in tension or compression. If you do want to fill them use wood down or whittled to size and glue in with wood glue

Is the dimmer suitable for LED’s ? Assuming yes then you are looking at a faulty fitting (if just replacing the lamps but keeping the same fitting), heat or humidity are also factors for premature failure especially with dimmed lighting.

Good morning and welcome, getting reliable people is difficult in UK, rural France must be a nightmare. the learning curve is all part of the fun and process of building

As you are likely to be bedding them into sand/cement mortar you might as well fill the gaps as you go along.

Any maps or plans are often useless for anything but roughly finding services especially out in open ground. In a street / residential area it’s pretty easy but out in the sticks you need to be looking for supplies on poles or asking any locals.

Good morning and welcome, knock down and rebuild seems like a big drastic decision but you will thank yourself later on.

Seals can be replaced and doors (hinges and locking plates) can be adjusted. If the door is still sound I would get a local window place in for a couple of hours to sort it out, plus re seal around frame.

I can’t see a couple of fence misdemeanours being any problem, building a house too high, wrong place, wrong aesthetics etc. then yes, but a few years down the line, is anyone likely to complain about a fence?

Don’t worry about it. The floor is going to move over time and small “gaps” will never be noticed by anyone else plus they soon fill with dust etc and are forgotten.

As above, cat5/6 RJ45 crimper for around £13 on Amazon, use pass through ends as these are significantly easier to fit. Bit fiddly for first few but you soon get the hang of it. Cheapie tester is worth its weight in gold at around £11 as this proves connection and correct wire orientation

Hi and welcome.

A breeding pair of brikkies … ok, I’m mentally scared now

I cannot build anything on my green belt area unless it is skid mounted and can be moved around. PD application on the curtilage and planners and wanting me to keep my workshop/garden room under 100sqm (I wanted 160sqm) to prevent future conversion into a dwelling. They are presently looking at possibly allowing me to build 2x 75sqm with a 1 metre gap between them.

Even barns are difficult unless you have over 5 hectares

@croboy we are in a similar position at the moment, having been looking for a suitable plot for a new build for many years, last year a bungalow with 1.5ish acre came up for sale in a great location, (with possibility of buying a further 10-15 acres later on). it had been built by the two farmers for their parents who passed and then sold to another family (who I purchased from) who knocked down the old barn and applied for planning for a replacement barn - refused, then re applied for a oak framed triple garage - refused, appealed and again refused. We bought the place, used a local architect and applied for a man shed on the paddock area - no chance, re applied with the shed moved onto the garden area to replace some old stables - nope! We reduced the size to 150sqm but still no, planners are now willing to discuss a possible design for 2x 75sqm (so they are unlikely to become dwellings in the future) under permitted development. hoping to get a go ahead in next couple of weeks so I can build my man-sheds.

Hi, welcome and well done

Loler cert is like an MOT for lifting equipment and often isn’t worth the paper it’s written on. Likewise training certs tick boxes but mean very little. if you were employing or hiring out an operator then a training cert tick the box that you have ensured they have a basic knowledge and proficiency with the machine and loler cert says that the equipment is safe to use in the manner it was intended, and/or the requirements or recommendations for repairs in a given timeframe. your own equipment for your own use - have fun!

If the extension is a warm roof then you definitely don’t want your cold roof ventilation going under the insulation of the new bit. warm roof part should be blocked off to prevent cold air entering but you need to maintain the ventilation on cold roof - with 3 other sides there shouldn’t be any problem.

A few months ago a friend asked me to look at a new lighting circuit tripping problem. Turned out to be some replacement LED GU10 downlight bulbs (lamps) her dad had convinced her to put new ones in because they are more efficient now … I put the old ones back and hasn’t tripped since.

1) you don’t need a total station unless you are setting out / checking specific positions on complex geometry - which can still be done with distance and plumb etc. but takes far too long. 2) for a new build house etc. FFL will be dictated (usually) by the surrounding ground level, or a specific point that the roof level cannot go over etc. For a datum, a solid fixed point that will not move, be dug up etc. a point in a road, pavement or concrete slab etc. is usual and you then give this a figure (can be Above Sea Level but not necessary unless there are multiple sites and locations working together, roads, bridges, shopping centres etc.) Then use a dumpy level or water level from this point. 3) plan setting out is straightforward using tapes / large square / diagonal checking etc. - loads of YouTube stuff showing how to do it.

It can be very difficult to find and seal leaks in shower screens, often the water is getting under or behind the metal frame and travelling to where it comes out/appears to. Silicon on the outside rarely works because the water is still getting out of the shower area. Quite possible it is the frame to wall connection which usually requires removal of the screen and sealant applied before fitting the frame back against the wall and base.