markc

Yes I would say it’s bituminous, definitely not asbestos with the honeycomb/perforated reinforcing

This is the guidelines and design criteria. If the clips are secured correctly yes. Now a 2metre long waste pipe blocked up could weigh around 150kgs which many people don’t realise and stick a couple of short screws in poorly drilled holes.

Yes, make the job 100x easier. Don’t use hacksaw!

Ahh, much better pics to give context. Any problems with ceiling to wall joint? Is this opening or been filled in the past? I was thinking this was a small extension sort of stuck on, but the build looks good, assume bi folds are working ok and no other issues so the gap and brick misalignment is becoming a mystery and the extension sinking is looking less likely. is the floor still level? If so then rule out underpinning etc. as the problem must be local to the joint, not the whole build

Embedment is one consideration but more important with cantilevers is the bending moment on the arms themselves. a large load close to the wall is easy due to shear, but move that load away from the wall and the rods experience less shear but increased bending and tension (dependant on the point of rotation). heavy duty floating shelves need box or circular section stubs coming out of the wall (which also needs to be able to resist the rotational moment). make the shelves even deeper and the loads increase dramatically

I would be using resin anchors (threaded rods bonded into oversize holes in the wall). Concrete screws should be fine as the will be in shear and unlikely to move but well fixed resins will never move.

Has to be an heat exchanger and UHF pump

A journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step (which is always the hardest), make a start and momentum takes over … get on with it!

Hi, the extension is sinking at the opposite end to joint. All buildings settle a bit but as your joint has been repaired previously and opened up again then it’s still moving. Hard to be specific without a timeline but you are probably looking at underpinning or take down and rebuild if you want to stop the movement. It’s not going to fall down anytime soon so no panic. don’t look at building anything onto this extension or extending upwards, to check the movement, stick some tell-tales over the crack and determine the movement over the next month/months as this will give a much better idea. what is the ground like around the extension? Trees (especially any removed in the last year or few years).

Certainly not the best looking joint, can you post some pics from further away and is the joint wider at the top? Any cracks indoors at this location?

Hi and welcome, you will find just about any question has an answer in previous posts, failing that ask away

Good evening and welcome

Not saying you can ignore it, but the chances of your cables being affected is very low. Cables and polystyrene is similar to copper and cement … never allow cementitious materials to come in contact with copper but loads of people have outside taps and even internal plumbing through walls and bunged up with mortar or pipes clipped to concrete walls etc. there are 1000’s or hundreds of thousands of buildings with cables surrounded by poly beads or through insulation boards

Yes that’s the standard cop out bumf. You also should allow cables to chaff on brickwork, mortar etc. which is much more likely in a cavity.

If the hardcore will bridge a DPM then it’s a no no or you will get damp walls. You could leave a gap between wall and patio. if the weep holes are in a retaining wall (damp rising is not a problem) you could use a clean crusher run (concrete,brick,stone pieces) not Type1 which will allow the weep holes to drain. This will create a sort of French drain, type 1 could be used under rest of patio.

Yes French drain and land drain are pretty much the same thing. Spiking wouldn’t achieve much unless the clay is a layer you can punch through and fill the holes with pebbles/hardcore etc. either real or fake grass your main task is to move (allow it to move) the water away to prevent pooling.

7mm dia. Drill for brown plugs. Drill depth to suit plug length. If you feel this is too deep then drop down to a 6mm drill on red plugs (or the white ones that come with many light fittings, curtain rails etc). Screws would then be 3.5 or 4mm diameter

No link or anything, I was just looking at your pic and remembered a project I was looking at to recreate a Native American scene

I would use a spear point drill bit, drill only, no hammer. Drill 7mm, brown plug and a 4 or 4.5mm screw will hold your painting easily

Just been looking at the original, it is based on a traditional ceremonial drum. Opaque bit is a drum skin sewn onto a frame with painted mural. No need for laser cutting or anything like that.

You can get cover for just about anything, at a price. but asking for cover to bring in trades if you injur yourself raises a red flag regarding your motives. This just screams insurance scam so I reckon the providers will run a mile. Yes cover the site for theft, 3rd party liability, hired in plane and trades etc. plus a separate personal injury plan.

Taps are no problem and waste just needs to be a top access one. Very rare you need to get under a bath

Yes, my bad, was supposed to say DPM .. ie to drain the membrane

Weep holes should be at DPC level so you definitely should not be going above them. Or are these weep holes in a retaining wall, not habitable? Is so then you can add a sort of French drain with pebbles to allow the drainage to continue

Best place for a smart meter display is in the bin or you will drive yourself nuts watching and stressing over it.